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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Where to get a good price on Short Block?.... ditching the 53 block...

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Sticking Throttle

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Ok, I have had it with tryiong to fix the 53 crack... .





I went out to try to reinforce the JB Weld I did and the Pins for the Lock-n-Stitch wre seeping in a few places... . No new crack but I haven't towed with it yet... . So after trying to do more of the JB-Weld, and that stuff falling down like mud... not staying put... I added some stop leak for another temporary hold for the inside of the pins...



Gonna bite the bullet and get a new short block. I am going to keep this truck for a long while yet and don't want to be wondering about it.....



SO, Where is the best place I can get the block, parts, etc... Pref. from local to save shipping... . I have a Cummins intermountain nearby... Are they good enough prices? Is Cummins expensive on labor to do the switch? Or is there someone local here that can do it? Might be able to help if there is someone with a shop and a picker.



Eric
 
I noticed you used JB weld I have used it too over the years and have found it to be rather worthless in most cases. There is a far superior product called



Belzona.



give it a try before ditching the block. Any good welding supply shop should carry it. or have someone familiar with it try to do it for you.



Just a thought for you before springing for the $$$ job.
 
I looked at the Belzona Site, Ok, another miracle repair item..... Like the Lock-n-stitch... .



I saw the photo where they repaired the ship block, Pretty interesting... anybody else know of this product and will it work? The only problem with my Repair is a few of the pins are leaking a little like 3 or 4 pin leaks. no extra crack or lengthening of it... . I Used the Bars-Leak with a thick ALuminum stuff in it that looks like it would seal up the pins from the inside... .



SO, If that does happen and I have driven it some today... . I will grind off the JB Weld and use the Belzona to repair the area and then reinforce the rest of the length of the curve... If it is as strong as metal, it should hold... .



Any coments on this stuff?
 
Will my head and items work on a 05 block? that webbing on the side looks nice.



Also I have a Horton fan clutch that is the 2nd gen mount... . Is that going to work with the 05 block?
 
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TDR Moderators,



I noticed you deleted the post where the sender had a block in a picture.....



I forgot the SN of that sender, can you give it to me?
 
EricBu12 said:
Will my head and items work on a 05 block? that webbing on the side looks nice.



Also I have a Horton fan clutch that is the 2nd gen mount... . Is that going to work with the 05 block?



Coming from a mechanic's standpoint, I have never been a fan of lock-n-stitch repair... or should I say leak-n-stitch. There's no sense in trying to fix an inherently weak design. Think of it as putting a band aid on a broken leg. It's just never going to work.



The newer blocks are not interchangeable with the older head and front geartrain. Also bolt patterns on the sides of the blocks are different. No provision for a rearward mounted ECM as well as VP44 bracketry support.



Find a non-53 block and you'll be set. 56 is good, as well as the Mexican '01 and '02 blocks. They actually seem to be the best. :D
 
53 replacement

Eric, check with ken Jones @ diesel Performance of Utah. # 801-791-2328 if he can't get one for you, he'll set you in the right direction locally. Tell him I refered him to you... . good luck.
 
Find some one in your area that specializes in cast iron welding. It's a lot cheaper than a new block.
 
DBohl said:
Find some one in your area that specializes in cast iron welding. It's a lot cheaper than a new block.



I think you would have better luck welding a Coke can than a 53 block.



Dave
 
If the lock-n-stitch won't repair an inherently weak casting, don't see how making it more brittle by welding is going to help.
 
Thanks for the replies guys..... I found the one that has the 01 block ( not a 53)... that has been honed . 020 over... All I need is rings and bearings and gaskets and I am all set..... For convenience sake as I am gone all week, I am going to let Gillett Diesel do the swap. So this job will be about $3000 total including parts and labor... . Now gotta break it in al over again!!
 
What are you doing with the old block?I might be intrested in it if you don't have to turn it in for a core.
 
I am having Gillett Diesel do the work and the block from the TDR member is shipping the block directly there. I have no way of lifting or transporting for shipping a heavy block... . If you are in the area, (can't see your location on my web phone. . ) then I could hold it in the bed of the truck til then..... As it is, I am splitting $400 for shipping of this block (500# truck freight)..... Since the "new" block is used, I was going to trash my old one save for the crank, cam and pistons... . Can sell those to whoever wants them... ... . Not hardly any worth for scrap metal recycle for the block... ...
 
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