where to set timing at ???

[Archive]

One last question When i advance my timing where is good spot I was told 18 degrees but was told that was too much should be around 14. 5 can i get a few suggestions from other members where they feel is the best spot for them I have an auto 98 4x4 getting ready to do my torque plate

[This message has been edited by RedNut (edited 09-28-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

I have had my truck at many various power levels, and for performance, I have found that 16. 5 Degrees btdc is the best overall timing setting.

Chris @ autowurks diesel

------------------
520 Rear Wheel H. P. and 800+ ft/lbs Torque = 15. 5 sec @ 97 mph with the rear wheels spinning in 5th gear going through the traps in the quarter mile. No slicks here, pal, no fancy auto transmission, just the truck in full street trim, 7400 lbs. of Auto Wurks Diesel/BD Performance raging, fire-breathing DIESEL POWER

 

[Archive]

Joe Donnelly suggested at the recent Texas rally that 14. 5 was good for power and that at 15. 5 you could get good power and better fuel economy. I do not remember the whole conversation, but I know that I wrote down to try 15. 5 for economy.

My question is how to change the timing? I can find nothing in my manual on it. Any help?

John

------------------
'94 2500 Diesel Reg. Cab
Auto 3. 54 4X4 TST 230hp
"If you can't Dodge it, Ram it!
'96 2500 diesel clubcab 4x4 5speed

 

[Archive]

Hey,
I was talking to Dave Mitchell he's gonna do my timing he said he would take it to 18. 5 when he does mine, and I was talking to some of the boys from Indian that are with Van Haisley the inventors of The JVD Box for the double valvers and their running 19-20. 5 I know it's way out their but that's what there running, he said at 20-20. 5 it's a little hard to get started but it's what ever you want>

------------------
94' 2500 4x4, 2. 5" Skyjacker, tweaked afc & pump, BIG plate, no muffler or resonator, 16. 5x9. 75 Weld Rims, 33x12. 50 BFG Mud Terrians, 60 psi boost gauge, pryometer, J&J Stainless Steel rear 10" drop bumper w/backup lights, Westin pushbar, PIAA 90 Pro series lights, Weatherguard toolbox 27"

 

[Archive]

If you go beyond about 15 degrees, the engine noise rapidly increases, and it tends to smoke more (black, not blue). I don't really think you get much economy increase beyond that unless you're running your engine at rather high rpm during cruise ( 2400+ ), and then you'll never do as well as if you ran it slower. The 12V engine seems to like speeds more in the 1700 to 2000 range for economy, probably for a number of reasons, ranging from timing concerns to breathing abilities.

If you advance too far, you'll lose power, as well as dramatically increasing the combustion pressures and peak loads on the piston/pin/rod/bearing/crank area without any significant benefit.

 

[Archive]

I went to 14. 5 deg. Seems to be working OK. I am usually running around 1900-2100 rpm.

------------------
Paul A. Schmidt
95, 4X4, SLT 2500, 5 spd. , 4. 10, 270 hp. ,675ft. lb. TST, AFC spring kit,215hp. injectors,16cm2 turbo housing, Pacbrake, Walker muffler,
GearVendor O. D. , CenterForce Dual Friction clutch.
Eastern PA.

 

[Archive]

As you raise timing, torque below 1900 decreases and power over 2000 increases, with the former change perhaps more noticeable. So, for an AT with stock rpm range, 14-14. 5 is good, one degree more for 5 speeds for power and best economy. Up to 16. 5 for modified engines with higher rpm capabilities Piers/BD governor springs).

Instructions for setting timing are in the Dodge factory service manual.

 

[Archive]

So which way do you turn the pump to advance the timing??????

------------------
96 CC 4X4 2500 SLT AUTO transmission, PrimeLoc, GUTTED CAT, Lots of Ham Radio gear, NO IGNITION NOISE!!! Love my diesel!!!

 

[Archive]

KBOOU,here you go, have at it http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/technical/tsb94/18-10-94/18-10-94a.htm You will need Cummins timing tool kit;SPX Miller p/n 6860($238) http://www.spxmiller.com/



[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 10-22-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

KBOOU, Illflem,The Diesel Engine Timing page on Fritz's site does not apply to the 96's, the lift specs are all wrong. I would contact Piers or Joe to get the right specs. KBOOU, I talked to Piers about timing mine and found out some interesting things about these P7100 pumps that are on our trucks. Give him a call at (800-887-5030), or E-mail him. You'll need to go to the B-D engine break link for the address,as I can't remember it now. As to the Miller timing kit, talk to Piers about timing before you buy it, lot of money for something you may not need.
Don

 

[Archive]

Thanks for the info on timing the injection pump. I already have some tools, dial indicator etc.
Specs on page did not show higher advance settings. My engine data shows 13 deg. , I was thinking I would try to advance a couple of degrees as a test. Will try to get further advise.

Thanks
John

Ham radio and Bombing go together!!!

------------------
96 CC 4X4 2500 SLT AUTO transmission, PrimeLoc, GUTTED CAT, Lots of Ham Radio gear, NO IGNITION NOISE!!! Love my diesel!!!

 

[Archive]

Here you go,up to 15 BTDC http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/technical/DIESEL/FAQ/timing.htm

 

[Archive]

Hey RedNut
You will find alot of different suggestions in this feild, It took me a while to find where I was going to set mine. Alot of people don't like the pinging sound the 5. 9 makes past 15 and 16 degrees. Joe Donelly suggest around that. We pull on sleds from time to time and we like our horses at top end where you usually do not want them, so we can seat into our clutch and then get going. I have mine set at 20. 5 which is unheard of on this site. The truck is very responsive and has a way different sound to it, but like I said you will hear two different stories from people some people like it low and others do not mind it as high as mine, and yes, I do know of people with it higher than mine, they dont' like to start very well but they run good when they do get them started!!!

------------------
94' 2500 4x4, 2. 5" Skyjacker, tweaked afc & pump, BIG plate, no muffler or resonator, 16. 5x9. 75 Weld Rims, 33x12. 50 BFG Mud Terrians, 60 psi boost gauge, pryometer, J&J Stainless Steel rear 10" drop bumper w/backup lights, Westin pushbar, PIAA 90 Pro series lights, Weatherguard toolbox 27"

 

[Archive]

Be Carefull on the advancement, have someone who defitnately knows what they are doing do it! It's best to have degree tape to put on the dampner, so you know EXACTLY how much you went. You do not want to go more than 5 degrees past factory settings if you want you engine to last.

------------------
2001, 3/4ton, 4x4, reg cab, long bed, Patriot Blue, 6sp.

 

[Archive]

Where would someone get degree tape? For making adjustments i'd thought about that Snap-On diesel pulse adaptor which allow you to use a timing light on a diesel engine. It has a thing that goes around one of the injector lines and senses the high pressure pulse and translates that to an electrical signal like that of a spark plug wire, for your existing timing light. Would this be useable if the balancer had degree marks and a pointer? I figured you could use the timing pin to locate #1 TDC and install the tape and pointer accordingly.

------------------
2001 3500 QC 4X4 black sport, ETH & everything else except 4. 10s

 

[Archive]

You can degree tape from a Cummins distributor, I work for a Cummins distributor and know that we stock it. How much it cost I have no idea. You would get the tape and a pointer, make sure you are on tdc, pop the fuel pump gear loose and rotate the engine opposite engine rotation. When the pointer is on zero on the tape, you just need to go 5 or 6 degrees max, that will give you plenty more power. Any more than that and you start to get to the point where you will start to melt your pistons!

 

[Archive]

Doug Carroll
If you use the tape method . would you need to know where the timeing was set to begain with ? So you would know how many degrees to go???? To get where you want to be. Or is my thinking on this wrong.
steve

------------------
95,2500,auto,410;2-WD
Gear Vender Overdrive
tst #5

 

[Archive]

I have tried the degree tape and found that it is not precise enough to do fine timing adjustments to the . 1 degree. I'd set it up to get 15. 5, and find that the actual timing with the engine running was 14. 2. Not good enough. There are different circumference harmonic balancers over the different hp engines. The other thing to consider is the cam position during popping the gear off. If it is on the high spot on the cam, the cam will auto rotate back down when you pop the gear off and you will be scr**ed and your engine won't run or will run very badly. Also, the gear is a press fit assembly, so using lots of brake clean and light compressed air blowing to dry off the gear and the shaft will prevent the gear from slipping 180 degrees while under a load, and your truck will not run at all. This usually happens while out on a test drive when the walk back is enough to p*ss you off. Timing the engine using the delivery valve method is slightly inaccurate also, the real way to do it is with the engine running while you check the timing. By the way, the Auto Wurks racer is timed somewhere near 31 degrees BTDC. These engines have no timing advance for the P7100, so as the rpms go up, the timing goes further out, unless you advance it to the point where the timing curve corresponds to the rpm the engine will be making its power at. Not enough advance=low power at the high rpm level. Too much advance="puttting the fire out" at the lower rpms.

------------------
Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

[Archive]

DB59
How do you trigger a timing light on a diesel? In aviation we use a degree wheel and the "dead stop" method of finding TDC. I would think this would work fine on the Cummins. What tools do I reall need to change timing? Gear puller only or should I just buy the whole Miller kit? ($$$ #ad
)

------------------
1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exh, 4"BD, MagHytec, 85gal fuel, K&N RE0880, AutoMeter, 370's, BD gov kit, BD afc kit, yada-yada-yada
www.fostertruck.com/cummins

 

[Archive]

I've put together an electronic timing tool with the inductive pickup for the fuel line. It has a "ring" on the unit where the inductive timing light clamps onto and they all work together to read absolute injection timing on cylinder number one.

------------------
Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

[This message has been edited by DieselB59 (edited 11-09-2000). ]