Which bomb should be first on a stock truck? Your Opinion!

[JyRO]

Howdy All!

This is a spin-off to the thread of, "Waiting to bomb... . "

So here's the deal. My truck (see signature) is stock. And it runs great, and gets excellent fuel mileage, absolutely no problems so far with 19,000+ miles. I'm looking to join my Cummins/TDR brethren in our quest to free-up these stifled ISB's to demonstrate to the, "other," diesel pickup truck owners that they made a poor choice.

So, where is the single best place to start? IMHO, I think it should be a modification that standing alone makes a notable difference in performance (enough to whomp the PSD & DMAX?). For example, injectors, or box, or exhaust, or ECM, or etc... It should be just fine by itself, but should be very compatible with other future modifications. In this thread, I don't necessarily want to know which injectors, box or exhaust is the better choice, just which one should be the initial bomb to a stock truck. After I make my decision which one should be first, then I'll determine which product is best.

I will not be willing to bomb to the point of needing a stronger clutch (at least not for a while). I would definetly like to keep the bombing budget as low as possible, so maybe you can also add some indication of cost to your bomb opinion. Also, keep in mind that I like my mods as stealthy as possible. Luckily I don't have those pesky void stickers.

So, what are your opinions, given my objective as listed above? Thanks up front for piling your post onto this topic.

- JyRO

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Y2K 2500 Cummins ETC/DEE, SLT+, 4X4, Quad, LB, Intense Blue Sport, 3. 54 LSD, rear aux. springs (camper special), sliding rear window, all options except cab clearance lights including agate leather, totally stock engine, silencer ring removed, "stealth," mod to run fogs with high beam. Since everybody else listed their toys, I will too.
1995 Kawasaki ZX6-R (For Sale)
1990 Toyota Celica
1983 Mazda RX-7 GSL (For sale)

 

[Ted Jannetty]

There are a lot of great products on the market that will make a huge power difference all by them selves but possibly at the expense of your engine a drivetrain.

So You need to do this smart, Take care of air flow first, through a high flow air filter and a 4" exhaust turbo to tail pipe.

Then add a set of larger injectors.
The reason I suggest this is so not to put any more stress on your injection pump by trying to push more fuel through a small injector, Plus larger injectors are more efficient.

Don't forget Gauges so you can monitor your progress and protect your investment.

At this point you have to consider upgrading your Clutch.

Once you do the Clutch upgrade, You can consider one of the many boxes that are on the market, for warrantee purposes look for a box that plugs in.



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Ted Jannetty, Owner President, Jannetty Racing Enterprises, Inc.
97 3500 4x4 club cab 5spd. RED, JRE custom power kit, JRE 4" exhaust
JRE 1/2 inch fuel system, Bosch 300 hp injectors, Prime loc,
Cummins chrome kit, US Gear 20% over drive, 3. 54 posi, Autometer
Ultralite 50lb. boost, and Pyrometer, BD exhaust brake.
Horton fan clutch

99 Ski-Doo 800 Formula III Pipes, reeds, studs and clutching 172 hp
99 Honda Forman 450 ES jet kit, pipe, lift kit, 27" Mud Runners
2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 800 X stock for now 140 hp
2000 TransAm Ram Air WS6 Flowmaster, K&N, Granatelli Mass air meter, LS1 Lid 370 hp
1973 Camaro Rally Sport Street Strip 850+ HP

[This message has been edited by Ted Jannetty (edited 03-08-2001). ]

 

[Scrmbld4X4]

Hey Ted, Whaazzzzup? He has a six speed.

Jyro, where are you going with this?? Again with my experience and knowledge (Limited... )you need to decide the character of the the truck. Work or Play. Yes you can do both, but what is more important? It tends to shift the emphasis on which parts and how many you add, and at what rate the cubic dollars get sucked out of your account(s).

 

[JyRO]

Ted - Could your post be a, "generic," type "Copy and Paste," post for those who are looking at bombing. See'ins I've got a 6-speed, I don't think I'll be looking to do any auto transmission upgrades on it for a while. #ad


Besides, how much does you're exhaust alone improve the power? I'm considering bang for the buck here. So what is that cost anyway?

As far as the exhaust goes, can anyone (else) give me an idea of what kind of power and/or torque gains (if any) I may get from an exhaust ONLY on a stock truck? I'm a big believer in backpressure when it comes to a torque motor. I'm more biased toward increasing the torque output since this is a diesel motor.

- JyRO

 

[JyRO]

Scrmbld - I want the truck to be a good puller, first and foremost. The added benefit of out running/pulling a PSD or DMAX is just icing on the cake. Did I mention that I really really like the icing though?

- JyRO

 

[JyRO]

Mopar-muscle - I agree I will have to replace the clutch sooner or later. But I'm going to try to keep it later... . much later.

Mopar-muscle & CUMMINSTRKN - What is the difference between the EZ and the PE EZ. Also, I heard that the DD (which is supposedly the same as an EZ, just packaged a little different?) also includes and timing only setting. Call me a dummy, but I don't really know exactly what all these boxes are capable of doing. For instance, you say the EZ includes a boost module. Does that mean it will trick the turbo/computer into making more boost? I'm just assuming here, please explain in detail what these 3 (or 2 if the PE EZ and EZ are exactly the same thing) boxes will do, and what the differences are between them. I was assuming that the DD box would be the best due to the timing only setting. You might as well describe the VA while you're at it.

Do you guys think I'd get a good gain in performance with a box (either EZ, PE EZ, or DD) with the RV275's? Has most people moved away from the VAs? Thanks for the help guys, I'm starting my matrix. #ad


- JyRO

 

[Papa Joe]

Photos are the most important aspect of any BOMBing. Without photos your BOMBing can have catastrpohic results. In fact, I know many BOMBing efforts that have had to be removed without photos.

Trust me, guys... ... ... . Photos.

Joe

"Please Honey, Only This One Syndrome. " #ad


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White 2001 QuadCab 2500 Laramie SLT, HO 6-speed, 3. 54 limited slip, Mopar exhaust brake, towing/camper options, Rhino liner, Grover Air Horns (not yet installed), Un BOMBed (so far), DUAL AIR BAGS !!

[This message has been edited by Papa Joe (edited 03-08-2001). ]

 

[Diesel Freak]

one word

GAGES! #ad

 

[Sean Flanagan]

In my honest opinion... Gauges first but that's not as fun.

After the gauges... Go get an adjustable fueling box such as the PowerEDGE adjustable, TST PowerMax 10 level Competetion (my favorite) or the Blue Box Adjustable. Those high end fueling boxes will give you all the power you will ever need and will smoke your clutch or auto transmission until you upgrade them (thats why you should get the adjustable box!). Forget injectors and 4" exhaust. This is my opinion but you don't need injectors with one of these boxes.

If exhaust temps are too high, just take out the muffler (leave resonator in). It has the same effect on exhaust temps as 4" exhaust and costs a whole lot less. It sounds just right too. Not too loud just a little more authority.

Good luck... Don't break the bank!



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98. 5 2500 QC LB 4x4 5spd, white. BFG 285x75x16
Cummins 24v w/ TST PowerMAX w/EGT and Boost gauges on A-Pillar. VanAaken CPC. K&N In the factory air box. Stock Injectors, Stock Exhaust (Geno's Muffler Eliminator). Re-routed breather stink tube, 2WD-low kit, SnugTop, JJ Stainless Running boards, Tow Hooks, Bushwacker Street Flares, and a Cup Smoothie.
83,000 miles (1/10/01)

 

[Sled Puller]

Being an abrasive sort, I detect a snub.
I may be wrong. #ad


BOMBing requires an acceptance of knowing when you are on the fringe, things may wreck or explode for no apparent reason.

Most people don't tell us when the break $5000 parts.
Be careful JYRO, and be sure to leave a cushion in your bank account for busted parts.
Happy BOMBing!
Gene

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1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 Bombed & Amsoiled. Amsoil Premiere Direct Jobber, Member of: NRA Business Alliance, GLTDR, WANTED: Wrecked Dodges.
www.awdist.com

 

[Ted Jannetty]

No Not generic, I just slipped up, saw the ETC, was looking for ETH.
I Know the Dee Means 6 spd.
Sorry!
I will edit the post for others to see.



------------------
Ted Jannetty, Owner President, Jannetty Racing Enterprises, Inc.
97 3500 4x4 club cab 5spd. RED, JRE custom power kit, JRE 4" exhaust
JRE 1/2 inch fuel system, Bosch 300 hp injectors, Prime loc,
Cummins chrome kit, US Gear 20% over drive, 3. 54 posi, Autometer
Ultralite 50lb. boost, and Pyrometer, BD exhaust brake.
Horton fan clutch

99 Ski-Doo 800 Formula III Pipes, reeds, studs and clutching 172 hp
99 Honda Forman 450 ES jet kit, pipe, lift kit, 27" Mud Runners
2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 800 X stock for now 140 hp
2000 TransAm Ram Air WS6 Flowmaster, K&N, Granatelli Mass air meter, LS1 Lid 370 hp
1973 Camaro Rally Sport Street Strip 850+ HP

 

[Doc Tinker]

JyRo,

I suggest that you heed Ted's recommendations. The man has always shown wisdom, when it comes to protecting your investment. If you would rather have more power, without concern for your trucks health then go on your merry way with a BIG BANG and buy a box.

Here are the steps I followed to BOMB my truck

1. guages
2. 4" exhaust
3. AFE filter
4. 275 injectors
5. Torgue Dog

I am comfortable with the way I did it and I'm happy with the power, without taxing the drivetrain too badly.

Doc

[This message has been edited by Doc Tinker (edited 03-08-2001). ]

 

[Deezal Man]

1. High flow aircleaner (not necessarily K&N)
2. Gauges (pyro,boost,etc. . )
3. Injectors (stage II-III)
4 or 5. little black box
4 or 5. (4") exhaust.
6. Clutch will probably end up between 4. and 5.

In my case, TC/VB, etc. .
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98. 5' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC 285-75-16's on Alcoa's. Everything but leather. PIAA 1200's, AMSOIL dual filter relocation system, Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner(Junk), K&N air filter(For Sale)15 year AMSOIL dealer. Time permitting, Soon to include Ultra-lite Pyro,0-50lbs boost, Trans temp in the pillar. Rancho 9000's with in cab adjustment.

[This message has been edited by Deezal Man (edited 03-08-2001). ]

 

[Sean Flanagan]

You guys got me on a roll now. I hope I don't insult anyone with my opinions and oberservations...

Don't forget, the only way you are going to make more power is to add fuel, however you do it. Injectors add more fuel, so do boxes. With a box, you can tune the amount of fuel you add. You will only tax your drive line as high as the setting you put it on. Why waste money on the incremental upgrades when you can have it all with one purchase and just set it to the level that your driveline can take. The only way you will blow up something expensive is if you use it unwisely.

From what I have seen, Simply removing the muffler does 90% of what a fancy 4" exhaust will do. Some of the guys on this board giving advice are selling this stuff, so naturally they want you to buy thier stuff first. Exhaust and intake mods don't give you a significantly more power. They will reduce your exhast temps. At higher power settings, they are necessary. Take out the muffler first, then see if you need more.

One more bit of advice, if you do go big on injectors, don't forget to buy the dreaded "boost module" or the improvements will be minimal. If you buy a "box", like the ones I mentioned earlier, they include the boost module.

Here's something else... If you are unloaded and are using just big injectors and the boost module, don't expect your cruise control to work. The accelerator will be so sensitive the truck will constantly overshoot the speed. You can't turn injectors off or down. With a box, you can set the power level for the load you are carrying and the cruise control works fine.

There you have it. Hope no one takes offense.

 

[dmurdock]

guages, exhaust, injectors, clutch, box.

short and sweet (typing on my laptop and mry faty figners hitr twor manny keys at onwce

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'01 Eth 3500 4x4, Amsoil air filter, AutoMeter boost & egt on pillar mount. See My Truck and also be sure to read What tools & methods to use for an easy 1st oil change!!!
"Be happy you don't get all the government you pay for. " -W. C. Fields

 

[LSMITH]

Get a box right after you get some gauges. The VA or EZ will give you lots more power than you have now, and either one will probably gain a mile or two to the gallon. When (not if) you get a set of injectors they will really make some serious power.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member

 

[PRout]

VA first (for ease of removal).

After warranty is finished, Injectors (dd1 or 2)& boost module. Don't waste your money on gauges until you have a need for em, or just want em. (you're not going to have high egts w/ va & dd1's) unless you run the sh*t out of it which is stupid (this comment aught to get the natives excited).

If you tow, you NEED an e-brake.

At this point, you'll have a good running, reliable, efficient tug boat.

I wouldnt waste my dough on a clutch or whatever unless it breaks (which if you dont abuse your equip, it probably wont break anyways).

Then you can go for the goodies like extra tanks, US gear under/over drive, etc.

Have fun emptying your wallet. #ad


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2k, 30k miles, QC, SB, 4x, 6sp, 3. 54, 285/75r16 bfg/at, stock air cleaner (reliable), silencer ring "in" (runs better), Sunnybrook 28' fiver, 16,780 lbs. 18mpg (unloaded), 12-14 mpg (loaded). VA, DD1's, PS Boost module & elbow, BD brake... also, Nitrous Oxide piped direct into the block (stealth - to keep the warranty), 10 gallon per minute fuel pump, ECM right out of Don Garlit's Top Fueler (he gave it to me) (for letting him ride in my truck), Super Modified DD1 Injectors ("Hand Honed" with a 1/4" reamer & my 12v Makita). More BOMBING to come. .

 

[merryman]

Hey Steve;

Great post!
Especially for those of us who are like a kid sitting on the edge of cold swimming pool sticking our toes in trying to decide if its too cold.
I have the gauges, and am really looking at that slippery slope with one eye and warrantee issues with the other.

Vaughn

 

[Mopar-muscle]

i think ted slipped there on the trans thing , but was giving a generalization toward what to do seeing many will read this .

but being that you have a stick you WILL have to change the clutch , when is just a matter of how much you intially bomb .

on the exhaust , the 4" is more to help with egt reduction and turbo spool up , the HP gain is minimal , 15 - 25hp , you could for the time being lose your resonator and stock muffler for a straight pipe or just a small straight thru , will help the exhaust breath a bit better , but the stock down pipe on a 2000 has a couple of compression bends that the 98,5 and 99's don't .

getting more air in helps , i just tryed a k+n RE0880 cone filter last week , it did help bring down the egt and i think i saw a bit better on fuel with it , maybe . 5 mpg better ??? its better than the amsoil i had .

best bang for the buck , would be the EZ edge , stealth all the way , has a boost module and can be used with other products later down the line .

get gauges and replace or modify the banjo bolts from lift pump to the injection pump .


but remember ... I AM MY OWN WARRANTY STATION ... .

 

[CUMINNTSTRKN]

i would suggest the pe ez box. http://www.edgeproductsinc.com
the reason i like this box over the other plug in type boxes is that it:a makes the most power gains. b it comes with the boost module built in. so if you want to install a set of injectors later you won't have to buy a boost module. since you have an etc you can get a fueling box but your egt's will be scary. i put the ez on my truck as my first bomb i was very happy for about 2 seconds until i needed MORE POWER. so be careful it will never be enough.

jim

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2001 eth, ez box, dd2's