Which Boost Module are you using?

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Since there are a few options for Boost Modules on the market now, which one do you use? What are the differences between them? I know we aren't supposed to post prices here but somehow I'd like to see the variance in cost. How about the homemade modules compared to the boxes?

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Puller: Y2K 3500 Quad Cab Cummins 6spd, All options except leather, 4" exhaust, K&N Air Filter, VA CPC Box
Pullee: '98 Trails West 3 Horse Slant with 10' Living Qtrs and Mid Tack.

 

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K-Man, I have a boost module coming from Keith W. and I don't have the slightest idea what it looks like. For 10 bucks I will try it and see what happens. Will add the elbow at the same time and pull some mountains with my 5er for the next 3 wks.

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98 24V QC, AT 4wd,4:10 LSD,Driftwood w/leather. Boost, Pyro and Trans temp gauges. X-Line Bed liner. TC lockup switch. BD E-Brake & PressureLoc

 

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I am happy with the DD boost module. I might remove it when I add a new fueling box, since some of the newer boxes are adding the boost module feature to them.

I routinely hit 30psi with the VA,DD stage I's, elbow and module.

David

 

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I'm happy with the DD boost module too. I have a VA CPC, DD boost module and elbow, 28-30lbs of boost. Good combination.

Don

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"The Shadow" 2001 Dodge Ram SLT 2500 QC 5spd 3. 55lsd, Short Bed, Sport, Black, Camel/Tan Interior, Trailer tow package, Camper package, Infinity sound, VanAakan CPC, DD Boost Module and Elbow, Pacbrake. Towing a 27ft Dutchman 5th wheel w/slide.

Member Great Lakes TDR

 

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<font color=purple>Just pulling this up, I noticed another question similar to this in the 24v forum.

One of the new kids on the block with "boost module" give it a look... .

PowerEdge Products

[This message has been edited by KatDiesel (edited 05-31-2000). ]

 

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One more time:

A boost module can be built using an air pressure regulator!!!!! For about $40!

E-mail me for info regarding instructions or I will build it for you and ship it - whatever. I guarantee it works!

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1999 2500 QC 4X4 LB Auto 4. 10LS, Driftwood, CD player with Steering Wheel Controls, Power Driver's Seat, 275HP Injectors, Boost Regulator & Elbow, K&N Air Filter, Brushguard, Spray-in Liner, 285/75R16 BFG AT KO's, Nerf Bars, Black Diamond Plate Deep Well Tool Box, Mopar flat antispray guards (front and back)
2000 Yamaha Big Bear 400 4X4
NRA Member

 

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Keep it simple and put a regulator between the map sensor and the manifold. It works, it works well and it's cheap. I know what the parts cost and TXRam will not make 5. 00 bucks of profit at the price he is offering it for. If you are not going to buy a box with a built in boost module, the regulator module is the one to use.

I've been using the regulator for about two months and it works perfect. In addition, no codes had been set when I had the DRB on the truck when the crank sensor deepsixed a couple of weeks ago.

If the bag of electrical parts will allow the map sensor to see actual boost from 0-20psi <and> prevents the map sensor from ever seeing boost over 20. 5+/- psi great, break out the soldering iron and make a box.

If you want to run 275hp injectors, a VA or a VA and injectors - the regulator style boost module and wastegate elbow is the way to go.

243

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1999 Quad Cab 2500 ST 4X4 SB 24V/5speed 3. 54/LSD Driftwood/Agate
[*] 275hp Injectors, Wastegate Elbow, Boost Module by TXRam, Straight Pipe
[*] VDO Boost and Pyrometer on Autometer Gauge Pod
[*] 235/85/16 Dunlop Mud Rovers, RS9000's, Hella 500 Driving Lights Husky Liners
[*] Smittybilt Sure-Steps, Magellan 315 GPS mounted on shifter console

-- email address removed --

 

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I have the Diesel Dynamics Boost Module as well. I have not had any trouble with this component. It sure put a smile on my face the first time I drove my Ram after installation... it unlocked all the fuel DC felt compelled to keep away from me, for my own good I suppose. LOL

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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (BLACK) SLT Sport, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, Glasstite Vision II canopy, Line-X bed liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Mopar tow hooks, Reese Titan V hitch, Jordan Research Ultima 2020 trailer brake controller, VDO Vision gauges, '00 Sport grille, '00 Sport headlights with PIAA Super White 9007/9004 bulbs, 4-2-7+4 Brite-Box, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Bosch 275 hp. injectors, VA CPC, DD Boost Module, Banks Stinger wastegate actuator, Psychotty induction system, BLACK '00 valve cover, Banks Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system, BD LV V10/Cummins hybrid TC and valve body, BD modified transmission front pump and PressureLoc, plus many other trick modifications

 

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Does a new wastegate elbow come with the new boost module - or is the elbow something totally different you must order separately ?

 

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I think that's the Boost Elbow that I got from HVAC. I'm not sure if it's included when you buy the module or not.

 

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My rig has the DD boost module on it also.
Like John's,it made all the difference by unlocking the fueling state.
The elbow comes with the module.

-Mike

 

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i have a homemade reg on mine , with the DD elbow , it works but not as well as the DD module , with the DD module on my RAM , the tires broke loose on the 1-2 shift i i was able to repeat this , with the homemade regulator i have not been able to repeat it .

 

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Can you repeat it with the DD module? Also, were any times (0-60, etc. ) better with it vs. the regulator? Not busting on anyone's products - I just don't understand what it can do that would be that much different. It can't give more than max fueling by just connecting to the MAP sensor, but it could possibly get to max fueling without actually reaching max boost - this IMHO will not be that much of a difference because 1) you need the extra air to burn the extra fuel, and 2) my boost spools up pretty darn fast, so max fueling is achieved pretty darn fast.

I wish someone down here had one that I could compare to the regulator method.

 

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Great responses guys. That's why I opened this thread - so we could see what's out there and compare experiences.

 

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MM, I am positive the reason the tires broke loose the first time is because it had been raining all morning and the road was still wet. When does the shift take place, maybe 20mph? At least in my truck there is no way I could produce twenty psi of boost at that speed, meaning that at that point, neither boost module is doing anything. I broke my tires loose that day also, and I have not since either - the difference between you and me is I have been running the regulator all along. The reason I haven't broken loose since is because of the road conditions.

I hope to get together with DavidVT soon and settle this. By then I will have my DDIII's installed, and we can really find out which one is better, if either. Speaking of which, where are you at with said DDIII's MM? I can't wait!!! I have gotta admit that at the hp level I am going for, I wish I had your auto, breaking up a WOT run with shifting takes away some of the hp rush #ad


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'00 2500 reg cab LB 4x4, 5spd, LSD, Van Aaken, 275 injectors, regulator boost fooler w/elbow, combo boost/egt guage, line-x, alumasport diamond toolbox, vernier idle controler, cold front, Warn front receiver, ventvisors and stepguards by autoventshade, OEM foglights, Super H headlight bulbs, my own "brite box", hide-a-hook, loadsaver, G-tech, name a factory option - I don't have it!

 

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FYI: as to boost by itself, I see no change after I removed the VA. MY DD I's, elbow and module seem to be enough to keep 30+psi on tap as needed.

 

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k-man - I have an extra wastegate elbow we can put on your truck. Then you can 'borrow' (for a test run) my DD boost module. I think you will be surprised what it will do with your VA. Drop me a line

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99 2500 QC 4X4 5sp 3. 54LSD 285 75X16 AR Atlas / Hadley airhorns / DDIII (317 RWHP)- 4in exhaust, turbo back - HD clutch / ISSPRO guages / 33' Hitchhiker triple slide