2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Which brake pads?

[JyRO]

Fellers –



I’ve just turned 70,000 miles, and my (front) brakes are just starting to make the squeal indication of needing to be replaced. This is the first time I’ll have to do the brakes … I bought the truck new in October ’99, and tow heavy from time to time. I guess I’m pretty conservative with the brakes … it helps to have a manual transmission too.



Anyway, I want to replace the pads, and the pads only. I have no wobble out of the rotors, never had noise either. I suspect the rotors are OK, but haven’t pulled the wheels and looked at them in detail. From what I’ve read, there should be no problem with just replacing the pads if there is no significant grooving (or other problems) with the rotors.



So here’s the question: I’m only interested in status quo with the brakes. They have always performed well. Stopped good and no pull. I don’t plan on road racing the truck so I don’t need the best performance on the road.



Which brake pads should I go with?



If I could go with the exact same kind I would, but I suspect that if I went to the dealer, I would 1) overpay and, 2) even though I say I want the same as came on the truck the dealer would say "these are the same" but in reality the pads they sell me would be some cheaper (quality) kind.



This is something I need your opinions on … I have no experience with brakes. TIA!

 

[Thomas]

Contact TDR member and brake guru Sam Peterson. His shop number is 360. 357. 4958. Many TDR members have pads shipped to their homes from Sam's Olympia, Washington shop.

 

[SRadke]

If you're not short on stopping power stay away from metallic or ceramic pads. I buy the softest organic pads I can get. Even though you have to replace them more often they're a lot cheaper than the rotors that you'll have to buy if you use agressive pads. My $. 02 (non tax deductable)



-Scott

 

[JyRO]

What about carbon/metallic pads? Would these be considered aggressive or middle of the road, or what? As far as stopping power, I give my stock brakes a rating of, 'good. ' The scale being, poor-fair-good-great. Maybe a 6 or 7 out of 10. So my stopping power is very acceptable.



However, even if I bought aggressive pads doesn't mean that I'll be 'late breaking into the turns. ' Wouldn't using aggressive pads in a moderate manner be OK, or would they still tend to eat up the rotors? Would carbon metallic pads be aggressive, or moderate or what?



- JyRO

 

[SRadke]

Carbon/metallic sounds like a new term for the old standard "organic"/metallic. They are probably as mild as you'll find. What I really try to stay awy from are the "extended life" or "lifetime warrantee" pads. I have a friend that put a set of those on his car and after 25k the pad looked brand new but the rotors were shot. The rotors on these trucks are too expensive and difficult to change to be doing it with every set of pads. If you haven't done it yet I would call the number above, he surely knows more about brakes than me.



-Scott

 

[TSterken]

I would also stay away form any life time or long life pads. Remember brake pads are cheap. The brake pads are made to be wearn down and be replaced not the rotors. Save your rotors and your money.

 

[BRuppel]

i had a set of ceramics on my 98 and they were awsome to say the least. wheeled the **** out of them and they still didn't destroy my rotors.

 

[SEmerson]

I use napa pads. Lifetime warrenty even against wear.

 

[MultiSmith]

70K ... . hmmmmm dunno have rotors checked for spec. . but I would go with matallic for sure. Being a manual trans I doubt you would need rotors.



I just replaced my 94' 2500 original rotors at 141k they looked really bad all rusted and super thin but they didn't make any noise or give me any problems. Based on the last pad change I decided to check them... they were out of spec for turn down so I bought two new (so called) premium rotors from autozone... ... $89 per rotor and for $32 ea. I installed gold matallics pads. Carbon matallic were $37 and cost more that ceramic est. $35. Ceramic are good at keeping brake dust off your rims but can provide performance stats.



What makes a rotor premium? I have no idea other than the material and manufacturing process but was told premium rotors should read either USA or Canada..... I priced rotors between $69 - 200 per rotor. so $89 didn't seem so bad. My truck stops pretty well or at least better than it did.



If people can spend over $100 for a cone K&Nfilter or put 11 qt. of synthetic oil in at every change then go ahead an spend the cash for matallics and if you need rotors later then you needs rotors but stopping is never over rated nor is using your brakes considered a crutch. We all don't drive 3000Lbs. sports cars.

 

[Sojourner]

Glen with EGR Brakes claims that his carbon/kevlar pads and shoes will last 2 - 5 times longer than other pads. I've been very pleased with mine.



Just a suggestion, but because your truck is now five years old, it would also be a very good idea to replace all three of those rubber brake hoses and completely flush your brake system with a high quality brake fluid if you haven't already done so. A little prevention can go a long way.

 

[PKleine]

Just a suggestion, but because your truck is now five years old, it would also be a very good idea to replace all three of those rubber brake hoses and completely flush your brake system with a high quality brake fluid if you haven't already done so. A little prevention can go a long way.

I second that suggestion. Over time brake fluid becomes contaminated with water and other stuff. It's good to replace it with clean fresh brake fluid of the correct type. Saves replacing expensive hydraulic cylinders and calipers later.



PK

 

[tjm]

I've used all types. Napa, Ceramix (you can see ceramic flakes in the pad, they''re not 100% ceramic). Latest pads are from Performance Friction. To me thay had a better feel than the ceramix. Lifetime warranty too. I vegot 180k miles on my 96 and i've gone through plenty of front pads primarily because my rear drums suck.



tjm

 

[JyRO]

Just a suggestion, but because your truck is now five years old, it would also be a very good idea to replace all three of those rubber brake hoses and completely flush your brake system with a high quality brake fluid if you haven't already done so. A little prevention can go a long way.

Ok, this sounds like a good idea, but where's the best place to buy replacement brake hoses? I don't care to step foot on the st... dealer's lot. But at the same time, I don't care to buy cheap stuff. In many instances, you get what you pay for, and I don't care to skimp on brakes.



In case anyone's wondering, I did call the number above. I didn't speak to the subject guy, but I did speak to a guy seemed to be the shop owner or something, I wrote his name down, but don't have it handy. Anyway, from the opinions I'm gathering the carbon metallic pads are the way to go. I'd rather replace brake pads than rotors, and seems to me like long lasting brake pads are likely to be rougher on the rotors than carbon metallic.



Now, about those rubber hose replacement parts. Where to get those? And do I need them even though I had planned on flushing the brake fluid? Thanks for all the info guys!



- JyRO

 

[Dartman]

Now, about those rubber hose replacement parts. Where to get those? And do I need them even though I had planned on flushing the brake fluid? Thanks for all the info guys!



- JyRO[/QUOTE]

Here's a link for EGR. I just received my SS braided lines in the mail. Quality equipment! It'll set you back about $190. 00 for three lines, but it is a pice of mind knowing I'll never have to worry about my lines rupturing. Supposively you'll get a slightly stiffer pedal, too.



http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm



Also might want to do some research on fluid. I checked out some boiling points on different brands and settled on ATE Super Blue racing fluid. It is only about twice what you'll pay in Checker or Autozone (cost me $10. 00 per liter) for the cheap stuff. Motul is another good brand with even better boiling points. I just flushed my system out with some Valvoline just to clean out the system. It is still going in clear and coming out gold. So going to flush some more. Then will put in the ATE. Here's a couple more sites w/some fluid info.



http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/info/article_read.cfm?articleID=369

http://www.centralcoastweb.com/nsxb/pages/m17.html



This is where I bought the ATE.

http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml





Hope it helps... ... ..... Tony

 

[AHughes]

I agree with Thomas, I've replaced the rotors on the front 3 times using the hard metallic pads. I ordered the pads from Sam Petersen and have never been happier. I don't care if I have to replace them more often but they are inexpensive and easy to change. Sam's pads work great and my truck stops in a straight line now and no warped rotors. I had mine in 2 days from Sam and he knows his stuff.



98. 5 3/4 ton QC,Driftwood, Leer canopy, F1 65hp injectors, VanAAken,fueler,AFE,DSS,fuel pressure gage, EGT,Central Oregon

 

[Leon R]

I have almost 200,000 klms on my 94 and have been using Sams Carbon metallic pads for the last two sets (total of three changes since new) and am still on the original rotors which are doing just fine. Have not had to turn them , just put on new pads. I would say 50% of my miles is towing. I also change my fluid every two years using a home made vacuum pump, using the vacuum from my 55 chevy. Is easy to do and is a one man operation.

 

[David Wheeler]

After my original pads went south (about 45,000) I went to the dealer to get OEM pads. Was told the dealerships had OEM replacement pads, but they were NOT the same as put on at the factory. He said there was very little difference, but they were NOT identical. Honest reply in my book is worth everything. Had the pads installed by my tire maintenance guy. When I wnt in for my 5000 mile rotation, he said I still had about 2/3 of the front pads left. They currently have about 28,000 miles on them. A little dusty, but not overly so. My rotors seem a little warped. But they needed to be turned when I replaced the originals anyway (were groved from a foreign object). Best wishes!



David

 

[JyRO]

… I just received my SS braided lines in the mail. Quality equipment! It'll set you back about $190. 00 for three lines, but it is a pice of mind knowing I'll never have to worry about my lines rupturing…

Maybe its just me, but I have never ever heard of someone’s brake lines rupturing. Now don’t get me wrong, I’ve put Kevlar lines (better than steel braided) on my road race motorcycle (when I was racing). It served a good purpose. As hard as you are on the brakes road racing those the Kevlar lines didn’t swell so your brake feel was more accurate … which led to more confidence in the brakes, precise brake feel, later braking, etc. But since I’ve never heard of ruptured brake lines on any passenger vehicle, and I won’t be ‘late braking’ with my truck, I think I’ll keep the $190 in my pocket. It just doesn’t seem like a justifiable way to spend that much money.



As far as the brake fluid, the fluid in my truck now is plenty good enough. I’ve never experienced any problem with it. So I’ll go back with the same level fluid (whatever DOT level it is), but I’ll make sure it’s a good brand. Like I said in the beginning, I’m interested in status quo.



I’ll be calling the number again on Monday and ordering the brake pads.



- JyRO

 

[Dartman]

JyRO-

A friend of mine had his right front go out in a '67 Charger back in '88. Pedal went to the floor and he had to use the e-brake. They were the original lines. This is the only line I have seen rupture but have replaced lines on older cars every since. Not that my '99 truck is that old, just going through the system and found these lines (they are kevlar) on the EGR site. Felt it would give me a piece of mind and stiffer pedal. Just my personnal preference. Tony

 

[fkovalski]

If people can spend over $100 for a cone K&Nfilter or put 11 qt. of synthetic oil in at every change then go ahead an spend the cash for matallics and if you need rotors later then you needs rotors but stopping is never over rated nor is using your brakes considered a crutch. We all don't drive 3000Lbs. sports cars.

RichardCooke, I think that is a damn good way of putting into perspective of how one should spend money.



I replaced my pads at 50K. Got 'em from Sam as Thomas referenced in this thread's second reply.