Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) which fuel plate for a 1996 1 ton auto?

[PWeber]

I bought a 1996 1 ton 4x4 auto trans. It has 82k original miles. The # 10 and # 8 plate does not show any warning about the auto trans though # 6 does. Can I go to the # 8 and not grenade my auto/ OD trans?

 

[DavidGardner]

Fuel plate

I have the #6 plate (230/605) when I asked about fuel plates from TST Mark Chapple advised that this was a safe plate to use with the stock auto and no guages. I installed egt and boost guages and beefed up my auto with DTT goodys. Mark also said if you want to go with a bigger plate (more HP&Torqe) that you would need to upgrade your trans, (if an auto ). My personal opinion is to install guages first then go for the power upgrades. As far as transmission upgrades I would recomend it at 85,000 miles even with a stock engine and auto.

Just my . 02 cents worth.



Dave Gardner.

 

[PWeber]

could you explain the DTT goodies please?

 

[bmoeller]

PWeber- Hope you get lots of input on this. I was thinking of the same question as you for my '97.

 

[DavidGardner]

My trk had almost 85,000 miles on it . I installed a TST #6plate ( 230 hp/605lb torqe) With the power upgrade I became concerned about the stock auto transmission holding up. I called Bill Kondolay at DTT and told him of my concerns. After talking with him I made an appointment and went to Abbotsford BC. to have my transmission rebuilt and upgraded. Bill himself rebuilt my transmission and added his torqe converter and valve body along with all new clutch pacts and other stuff that I dont know anything about. What I do know about is that the trans performs mutch better than stock and after 50,000 miles on it I have had no problems and would recomend it to anyone who asks me. I am not affiliated with DTT in any way. I am just a satisfied customer. I know there are other venders out there who have customers who are just as satisfied as I am. If you are looking for an upgraded trans, shop around and go with who ever you feel comfortable with. It is your money, there are many worthwhile options available. Bottom line- if you (bomb-upgrade your power) your stock auto aint gonna handle it. Do the guages and transmission first then Bomb away! You wont regret it.



Dave Gardner

 

[champspa]

for a 96 auto the #8 plate is 230 hp 605 torque . I have had this plate for over 100,000 miles and it works great . the rest in my signature helps the truck keep up with it.

 

[RedRamer]

champspa

All you did was put in a new TC?

Did he rebuild the transmission at the same time, foll with the valve body and all that stuff?

 

[champspa]

I had a local shop build the transmission put in a shift kit extra clutches etc and a gbbros torque converter.

 

[PWeber]

So, will I shred my stock trand that works fine with a # 10 or #8 plate? I know many folks like to do the trans as a step in bombing. I am not on step 1 of bombing, just want the power my 1996 5 spd. had (or something near it). Anyhow, I dont want to sink $3k- $4k in the trans, thus dont want to add the plate if it will shred the trans. I use my trucks about 1 time per week and put 2,000 miles per year on it. So, this is not my main mode of xportation, just want it to pull harder on Saturday when I pull my 28 ft. enclosed sled trailer, car trailer, etc.

 

[98rammer]

i tell a lot of people this:



the stock auto can hold a lot IF you know how to drive it right. it's usually slipping of the lock up clutch in a constant manner (pulling up hills while it's slipping... not one quick slip for 1 second) that will quickly fail the transmission. warpage of the lock up clutch happens, then comes shuddering which just follows down the line, lots of debris flowing through the transmission, and then it's dead. so *RPMS versus Torque versus throttle position* (which equals the line pressure inside the transmission... and RPMs too) needs to be taken into consideration when rolling down the road. i'm guessing that i'm at about 300hp and 715 foot pounds of torque now with only upped line pressures and a converter stock/UNlock switch (redynoing in May).



although the internals need to be updated for serious hp (2nd band strut, # of clutches, etc. ), if you drive it right, IT CAN hold a lot of power!



--



i don't tow heavy, but when i do tow period, i have to often wind the rpms up high locked rather than running in OD locked with lower rpms (so as to not slip the lockup clutch). only 2000miles per year?? as long as you don't slip it, then the transmission should be fine. however, to be *reliable*, an aftermarket transmission needs to be taken into consideration.



Tom

 

[dcasselberry]

Advanced Diesel Technology installed the #8 plate for me back in January, on a 96 3500 with about 103K miles. It has been pure joy, with a great power curve and no problems with the stock transmission whatsoever. I don't tow much, but for everyday driving, it's like a new truck since the upgrade.

 

[PWeber]

dcasselberry,



how did it affect your EGT's?

 

[dcasselberry]

Since I had my guages installed at the same time as the #8 plate, I don''t have a benchmark to say how much EGT's were affected. As I also have an AFE Megacannon installed, I've had no problems with EGT so far. The EGT has never gone out of the safe range at this point in time.

 

[98rammer]

you egts shouldn't go out of the "safe zone" until you put a governor spring kit in your truck...

 

[PWeber]

I think I will try the kit with the # 8 plate then. What is that elbow that comes with it all about? I notice some guys selling jsut plates on eBay without the boost elbow?

 

[98rammer]

the elbow allows you to run higher boost. what i did was to simply pinch off the wastegate hose so that the wastegate simply doesn't function anymore.

 

[DSutton]

I did the 230/605 TST kit in my 95 auto a few months ago. thought I would share a couple of my thoughts:



1 Definately install gauges first. EGT's can and will get high enough to do damage.



2 Driving habits are going to dictate the life of your transmission. I regularly pull 8-10K and have good confidence in the stock transmission (Notice I did not say complete confidence). With the minimal driving you do you could drive for lots of years on the stock transmission.





According to my dad who drove a 99 24 valve for a couple years, my 95 with the few minor mods I've made, would pull as well or better than the stock 99. Just my opinion on trying to match the power of your 96 Manual.



Good Luck!!!

 

[bmoeller]

About how much ( just ballpark) peak boost/egt's will you have with a #8 plate and BHAF? When I replace the stock, rusted out muff and tailpipe, I'm planning on a 4 or 5 inch mufflerless exhaust, maybe even stacks, haven't decided yet. Still have stock plate in orig. position (at least as far as I know, I'm 3rd. owner). Crusing at 65 on the flat empty and 4. 10 gears, I run about 4-6# boost and 550-625*. The max. that I've had empty were 20# boost and 925* going uphill on an on-ramp.

 

[PWeber]

My 96 5spd truck hits 32# boost and is stock except I plugged the wastegate line... . Dont have gauges on the 96 Auto. It is a dog compared to the 5 spd truck. I would say 25% less power from towing the same trailers, etc.

 

[maint.man]

I'm gonna go a little farther out , and say that when I put the fuel plate in my 96' auto 3500 I went with the #5 TST . I also put in a DTT valve body to increase the line pressure , for a little safety measure. If I was gonna do it again tomorrow , I wouldn't change a thing . With the 5 in stock position , a K&N in the stock airbox , and the boost elbow supplied with the plate , I hit 32 psi. and never saw over 1200 on the egt. One thing for sure , when the smoke pedal went down I looked something like this