Which Fuel Plate?

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I have a 94' 4x4 5spd and am trying to decide between the #8 (230/605) and #6 (250/635) fuel plate. I do not want to get involved with injectors, turbos, 4" exhaust etc. . What are the recommendations from those that are running these plates? I understand that with the #8 EGT's may come into play. Skinny cat, no muffler.

 

[Archive]

BertM:

Welcome to the TDR Website!

As you can probably see by my
signature I have the #5 TST plate
but also have other EXTENSIVE
modifications. Prior to all the
"other" modifications all I had
was the #5 TST plate. I never
had any EGT problems with that
plate by itself. The ONLY time
I ever saw EGT's above 1200
degrees is when I pulled my
racing trailer through the Smoky
Mountains on 4-5% grades on
very hot/humid summer days
(95-100 degrees, humidity the
same) and I was accelerating
hard up a hill or up a ramp.
General driving it always did
O. K.

I would think that the #8
would give you less of a problem.
Air+Fuel=Power AND more HEAT.

Anyway I hope this has helped
you.

Good Luck!

John_P.

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Major Pump Mods(By "Scheid Diesel") 370 Diamond B Injectors, Gov. Spring kit, AFC Spring kit, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, BD Pressure Loc, Isspro Gauges, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

[Archive]

i read your post with great interest as i am looking at the exact same choice. i have a 95 3500 4x4 dually 5sp, and i've struggled with which plate to put in. the two choices you've mentioned are the same i'm trying to pick from, but i'm about to go with the #8. i talked extensively with two major businesses that do diesel bombing, and they both recommended the #8, especially if one is worried about egt's. even with the 8, they strongly recommended a pyrometer. i'm also looking into putting my kitty on a diet, but have not gotten around to doing it. did you see much difference with yours? i would be very interested in corresponding with you to compare the directions we take with our trucks. i, too, am not planning on extensive mods, mainly just a plate and simple exhaust work.

 

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I was BOMBING and did not know it; My cat died in November of 1994. I can't remember way back then, but I just put on the ME kit and the throttle response is well worth the effort. I also have the combo gauge installed. Running hard on the interstate empty, then off the road, my EGT is below 300 before I can get off of the ramp. Pre turbo.

 

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I only want a little more power. That's what we all say, then we're pulled down into blackhole of spending and HP/TORQUE envy.

Having said that, it all depends on how you use your truck. As my profile shows, I went with the #8 plate. It's OK. I found that around home (290' above sea level), I didn't have to really worry about EGT's much, even when pulling the backhoe. I could make 1300 degrees if I really tried, but was very, very controllable. And the power was nice.

Injectors are really easy to change. If I were starting over at this point, I'd go with bigger injectors and a bigger plate. Reason is that in my case at least, I'm gonna do the things necessary to lower EGT's (increase air in and out), then I can add more fuel which = more power.

I've found that with my mild combination, it's easy to exceed safe EGT levels when I get above about the 6,000' level out west when pulling 5 or 6,000 lbs.

My advise; go with the bigger plate, if you're like most of us, you'll eventually get to the point of having to improve the intake/exhaust side anyway. So if you start out with the bigger plate, you may save a step in the never ending upgrade process.

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"95" 3500, 4WHD, Ext cab. SLT, 5 spd, 4. 10 LSD, Rancho 9000's PacBrake, running boards, Mopar mud flaps, Isspro EGT, 50lb. boost, TST #8, 215HP injectors,no cat, muff or turbo ring.

 

[Archive]

Hey, Bert

Be careful about relying on a preturbo reading to tell you when it is safe to shut down the engine. The POST-turbo reading will be higher than the pre-turbo reading for a little while after hard running. That's why the automatic shutdown systems use post-turbo temps to moniter when it is safe to stop the engine.

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1996 Dodge 2500 4X4 SC, SLT, Cummins 12V, 5-spd. , JRE 4" exhaust (my kitty ran away into the woods and the muffler fell off!), TST 280 HP/685 Ft-Lb Uprate Kit, AFC Spring Kit, Horton Fan Clutch, Jacobs/Ram Exhaust Brake, MagHytec Differential Cover, Prime-Loc, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Combo Gauge, K&N Air Filter, Brite-Box, Geno's finger-touch oil pan drain plug, no turbo silencer ring, full-time fog lights.