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Which rear locker to get?

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I think I have it narrowed down to either a Detroit for 765. 00 or the power trax for 465. 00. I was told both are good and should hold up to the cummins. The shop owner said the detroit is solid and will slide the tire in a turn while the power trax will unratchet to allow for turning. I thought the detroit allowed for this also. I can't handle this lsd I have now. It is embarrasing getting stuck on wet grass with 10,000 lbs of wood on a gooseneck. I'll be getting one of these about the end of May when school is out. Please help with advice or opinions. btw both prices were installed.

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2001 quadcab slt 2500 HO 6spd. LWB,2wd,dk garnett red, trailer tow package,camper special, anti spin 3. 54 axle, speed liner,oversized stainless steel chicken slide,66 gallon in bed aux. tank,K&N air filter,Reese 20k hitch, Terry 2000 EX 30ft. double slide 5er, 2000 20ft gooseneck for haulin jeep, firewood and huntin stuff. 5X12 tagalong for haulin the 4 wheeler. Okie Newton
 
I ALSO HAVE AN ARB IN THE FRONT OF MY FJ40 CRUISER WITH A LOCK RIGHT OUT BACK. BOTH HAVE SEEN PLENTY OF ACTION. I THINK THAT I WOULD GO WITH THE DETROIT OUT BACK B/C I KNOW THAT THESE THINGS CAN JUST TAKE A BEATIN AND IT WOULD PROBABLY HOLD UP BETTER BEHIND THE CUMMINS IN THE LONG RUN. IF YOU RUN THE DETROIT, GET USED TO THE CHIRP--CHIRP--CHIRP AROUND THE CORNERS. #ad


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2001. 5 2500 DARK GARNET QC LB 4X4 6SPD HO 3. 54 EVERYTHING BUT THE COWHIDE
 
Oakie... .

I have a Power-trax no slip in a very bombed 97 Dakota gasser.

Maybe my unit slipped through quality control, but it chirps the tires badly when starting from dead stop and making any 90 degree turns. Doesn't matter what light throttle you use, the tires chirp. Also, somewhat annoying clicking/clunking when manuevering around parking lots. I honestly don't know how the soccer moms and other SUV drivers who would install this would not demand a refund.


Most of the time these two conditions drive me crazy until I floor it leaving two very even black patches which remind me what I really bought it for.

Hopefully you'll get opinions from other Power-trax owners that may show that my unit is the exception.

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White 2001. 5 2500 ST, SWB, 4X4,QC, AUTO, 4. 10's, LSD, 285/75/16 On Weld Outbacks, PIAA 510's, Line-x, Tinted glass, Redline 85+, Blow-by-bye, RE-0880 & 25-0880,muffler fell off,level truck with 2" tuff country kit, Bilsteins all around.
 
Okie... . sorry I mispelled your name.

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White 2001. 5 2500 ST, SWB, 4X4,QC, AUTO, 4. 10's, LSD, 285/75/16 On Weld Outbacks, PIAA 510's, Line-x, Tinted glass, Redline 85+, Blow-by-bye, RE-0880 & 25-0880,muffler fell off,level truck with 2" tuff country kit, Bilsteins all around.
 
Think real hard before you get anything other than an ARB. The ARB is only a little more, if that, than the Detroit--not counting the air compressor. The air compressor is around $250, and adds to the cost, but it's nice to have if you ever need air in your tires in out of the way places.

The drivability of the ARB when it's not locked, and the 100% locking when it is, is simply the best of both worlds. I’ve got ARB’s in my Jeep (front and rear) and I would never have anything else—I actually run the ARB’s in the Jeep off a CO2 tank.


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2001. 5 3500 QC 4X4 6-speed HO 3. 55 black
1998 Jeep TJ black http://www.nm4w.org/members/puffer.htm
 
The Lok Right and, I thought, the True Trac require an Open Diff for installation. They replace the exsisting spider gears in the factory carrier. I had a Lok Right and it worked great. All of the lockers will chirp, or lock the tires if you accelerate through a turn. It's the nature of the beast. Since you have LSD, the Lok Right and True Trac (I think)are out unless you pick up a open diff carrier somewhere. The advantage to the latter was that you do not have to pull the carrier out. When the carrier is pulled, back lash and pinion depth, and torques must be reset. The Dana axles in our trucks take a patient and skilled mechanic to do right. In my opinion, if you are set on installing a locker. Go with the ARB unless you drive in severe off road conditions a majority of the time.
 
I've heard the ABR's are the best when working. For the rear I would go with a mechanical type. Not one that could have an air leak (either from a cracked/broken line or worse, inside the case)and leave you with an open differential. If you want reliability then KISS. The front axle is another matter.

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90 W250, 5-speed, isspro gauges, 16 cm2, K&N, Borgeson shaft, JRE 3" exhaust, Banks Intercooler, Lucas injectors
 
Matt has a point. Another point is that if your air compressor goes, so does your locker—one reason I run the ARB’s in the Jeep off a CO2 tank.

That said: I abuse my Jeep, and the lockers in it, more than anything you’ll ever do in your truck and I have had no problems with my lockers. I’ve had them in for almost 4 years.

It’s true that you have more points of failure with the ARB’s, but I’d still go with an ARB if I were to put one in.


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2001. 5 3500 QC 4X4 6-speed HO 3. 55 black
1998 Jeep TJ black http://www.nm4w.org/members/puffer.htm
 
Lockers.

I've used Detroit Lockers for many years and I've snapped a lot

of axles in that time and I have never hurt a locker. The locker

that I have in my hunting buggy is one that I've used for more

than 20 years in a Dana 70. I've gone through 3 sets of ring and

pinions with the same locker.



Gus
 
The website for ARB air lockers is: www.arbusa.com.



I have used airlockers in my Jeep's Dana 44 front axle & Dana 60 rear axle for over five years. You couldn't get me to use anything else. I got to where I only used them when I needed them.



The beautiful thing about airlockers is they can be turned off & on as needed. I wired a switch for the air compressor, so it wasn't cycling while driving around town. I think this will make the pump last longer. On the street I don't think a locker is necessary, but there a great thing to have.



Don't use the airline provided with the airlocker, I used 300 psi airline and fittings that I bought at a local hose products supply. A couple of companies make braided stainless hose kits for the air lockers. I never had a single leak in my air lines.



One other thing to remember is that airlockers work more like a spool. When you hit the switch it locks up both axle shafts. I wouldn't advise using them on dry pavement unless you want replace axle parts.



The detroit lockers are also very good units. The locker effects will be less harsh in a heavier truck, than a lighter vehicle like a Jeep or Dakota. You will still get the tire chirps, especially when you romp on the accelerator or turn corners.



One other thing about Detroit and other full lockers is you have to adjust your pavement driving a bit. You also have let others that drive your truck know it don't drive the same. With airlockers you turn them off and drive.



That's my long winded two cents worth.
 
I've got ARB lockers in my Land Cruiser and have not had any problems. Just be sure to keep the gear oil clean so you don't wear out the seals... . I don't buy the argument that they are less reliable than other lockers since I've wheeled some hard stuff over 3 years and they're still holding up great.



However, if you're talking about brute strength, then I think the detroit locker would be stronger. Lock right are good, but not as strong. For the ultimate strenght, a spool is the way to go, but not very practical in our trucks.



My custom Dana 60 axles for my FJ40 has a Strange spool in the rear and a Detroit locker in the front. Steering will not be a problem because I'll have an AGR rockram system.



My 2 cents. .

Charles
 
i just had arb's put in my truck front and rear. i talked with arb and they told me in there testing they found if the locker is locked the axles will give before the locker does. they also said they have never seen a dana 70 or 80 locker come back yet. so i felt like it was a challenge. they also said that going in a straight line down a flat track is way easier than off camber 4 wheelin. i told them what i had planned and they said great you will be very happy with it.



jim
 
I've had my ARB in the front and Detroit in the back for about 2 years now and done about 15 sled pulls with em--the ability to turn the ARB off for the front is flat out awesome for steering and the detroit in the back does chirp and clank once in awhile but that's the price you pay for durability---detroit in the rear and ARB in the front is my vote or ARB in both---chris
 
So far at about 25,000 miles mine is doing fine. Once you learn how to drive it you don't know it is there till you need it.
 
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