Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Which Southbend clutch for NV5600 conversion?

[SRath]

I have just about finished gathering the parts for my NV4500 to NV5600 conversion.



Time to buy a clutch. I would like to buy a SBC, but need to know which one?

I bought the stock 13 inch flywheel and NV5600 from a wrecked low-mile '03.



I think the correct SBC I need is the MU 1947 Con OFE, but I'm not sure. Can anyone guide me on this? How much can I expect to spend on it?



Thanks!



My truck is a '96 2500 4x4 x-cab

 

[Woodenhead]

If it's an older 5600 it may have a 1. 25" input shaft and you'll need a 13" conversion clutch (MU 13-1. 25). I see it's an '03 so it should have a 1. 375" shaft you'll need the one you mentioned above. Since you're going with a new clutch I'm sure you know you'll want to get the flywheel surfaced so it wears in properly. I had the MU 13-1. 25 ConFE with my 4500 and was only going to need a new center hub put in for the 1. 375 input shaft but ended up buying a new clutch since I didn't have the time to wait for the hub to get swapped. Peter at South Bend treated me good on the new clutch.



If you have any doubts I recommend calling South Bend, they're good people and Peter will set it straight for you.



Good luck with the conversion, you'll like that transmission. Once you pull in 5th gear you'll wonder how you got by without it.

 

[16919]

Get a sprung DD and you'll never worry about the clutch again... ... what are you going to use it for? Towing, daily driving? Whats your power output or Where do you want to be?

 

[DESL PWR]

Ditto on the sprung DD. I originally had an OFE on my 5 spd. I was hesitant on stepping up to a DD since I drive 40 miles one way in oftentimes heavy traffic. Once I installed it, I was completely blown away by how smooth the engagement was. Even backing in reverse was no problems at all. Sure there is more pedal pressure with the 3850 plate, but nothing outrageous. I will just say that if you are on the fence at all about a DD then do not waiver any longer and never worry again if the clutch will hold or not.

 

[SRath]

Thanks for the input guys! I have an opportunity to buy a new-in-the-box MU 1947 CON OFE kit for about $500. A transmission shop has it and it was for a customer who never showed up or paid for it. Is that a good price or should I offer them a firm "something less"?



I drive a 75 to 80,000 pound semi 12 to 14 hours per night, mostly in-city (clutching and shifting is my life's work!), so I would not hesitate to run a DD either and will never whine about having to shift through just 6 measly gears instead of 10 or 13, and would laugh at the DD pedal pressure. But I have budget constraints and was just going to run a stock LUK clutch until this SBC came along. I'd rather have it than the LUK I think (as long as it is the right one).



My motor is bone-stock right now except for a K&N air filter (big deal... ). It has 150K on it and has been absolutely trouble-free except for being an oil leaker. This clutch I'm considering is rated for 450 HP and 1000 lbs/ft torque. I would like to find the right mods to get my motor anywhere close to those ratings someday, but without a second mortgage and without sacrificing MPG or Reliability or Durability (my "Big 3").



I'm doing the NV5600 conversion because 1) I never did like the gearing match of the NV4500 and Cummins; and 2) My NV4500 is running with the 5th gear nut already having been replaced once and I don't trust it to last very long.



I don't do alot of heavy towing with my pickup (I do enough at work!), but I do plow snow and some off-roading. My Dodge is at a point where I either upgrade and repair several things (steering, exhaust, transmission, t-case, deer dents from last fall), or just sell it. I don't want to sell it. I don't like any of the new trucks (Dodge, Chevy, or Ford) even if they were affordable, which they aren't.



But the more I look, the more I see to fix and/or upgrade or dislike and live with. I would like to upgrade my t-case when I do the transmission conversion. I can't believe a manual trans '96 Cummins Dodge with the towing package and (supposedly) special-ordered 1-ton suspension was built using a 241 DLD instead of the 241 DHD... What a bad joke! They must have been out of decent DHD diesel transfer cases that day... Amazingly, the DLD gas-motor t-case has held up so far, but it doesn't exactly inspire confidence.



One step at a time, I guess, but I do believe time is running out at 150K if I don't address these issues. If you think the clutch is a good deal at $500, please let me know before they sell it to someone else.



Any advice on the t-case would also be useful. A beefier 273 manual shift (?) would be great, but I don't know of any solution to the speedo problem yet.



Thanks again!

 

[16919]

That is a good price considering they retail around 900. The 450/1000 is true I put a little over 1000 lb/ft on mine and it never slipped. Robert P from NGM put over 600 hp on his and it held. I would think that it would work for you but it all depends on how you drive. Single discs as you probably know dont like higher gear launches etc. and with a 6sp you would almost always start in 2nd, you know how to drive so that shouldnt be a problem. The snow plowing not sure about if you want to run all 450 hp through it, I like to have a cushion so to speak. Its a good deal in my book and should fit your needs... if you have any hesitations, call southbend and talk to Peter or Robert at Ngm they will be gald to give you the info.

 

[Woodenhead]

The $900 clutch is for a 13" conversion from 12" and includes a flywheel that's ready to go. A MU1947 Con OFE for a truck that already has a 13" clutch retails for about $700. Still not a bad deal though.

 

[DBohl]

SRath, I sent you a pm but not sure if it went through. Let me know if you got it. Doug