Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Which turbo/clutch upgrade?

[Kellydown]

Comp is on order and will be followed with Mach 1. 5's. Rig has 110K and runs mostly unloaded at sea level. Basically stock with the exeption of FASS and gauges.



What size turbo will I need to support this setup? Will the stock turbo work with the comp alone? comp in EZ mode with injectors?



Same questions with the clutch, I am thinking of a SB OFE, but will the stock hang on until I can get the funds needed, or should I upgrade before adding injectors?



Thanks a bunch, I can't kick this BOMB bug by starving it, decided to feed it

 

[Kellydown]

I apologize for cluttering up the board, I found what I needed.



Even with the search feature, I am finding that TDR has so much good information, it can be difficult to filter through it all to find the answer.



If anyone has run anything similiar to the setup I described, I would still like to hear your opinion.



Thanks

 

[JFinke]

I have about what you are talking about. I think 100HP injectors would be like Mach 2's? I had the injectors first and no problems with the clutch, but as soon as I put the comp on I could slip the clutch on level 2 empty and it would slip turned off and only acting as a boost fooler with a 7500lb trailer. I am about ready to go to the HTB2? turbo to lower EGT when towing and on 5X5 on the box when empty. Was going to order the turbo until trans lost 6th gear while getting son's new horse. You should also go to a bigger air cleaner if you just have the stock box with K&N.

 

[DWeiler]

hope this helps

Same year as mine,with injectors and comp i could slip the clutch pretty easy,upgraded to a s/b con ofe, if i had to do it over i would just do injectors and then the clutch,skip the box and just get the MAD ecm. I might still get the MAD ecm and see how it is without the box,or run both but with the comp set up like an EZ mode. As far as turbos,i'm running a ksb1b-2 with the three inch outlet ,so i can still have my turbo mount exhaust brake,love it,spools nice,easily hit 35-40PSIof boost,cools nice. I could of gone with a regular b1 but i was a little worried about my head gasket,from what i'm told they can hit 45-50 PSI. hope this helps,my 2cents

 

[Nickaru]

I have a similar setup and same year truck. I like the 1. 5's but they seem a little smokey with regular around town driving at 3300 ft level. I have a comp and leave that off most of the time or just on 1x1 setting. The turbo is stock. I'm thinking about a 14 cm turbine housing and bigger compressor wheel but that little more lag, I will receive, will give me even more smoke at bottom end. I've been thinking about downgrading to the RV275 injectors. My clutch is stock and holding if I don't horse around (hard to keep from doing) . I'm really looking over my clutch choices and not happy with what's out there. All the metallic clutches and combo metallic and organic discs, will chatter, eat flywheels and you can't take off in 2nd anymore. My $. 02 worth.

 

[JWBoothe]

Why cant you launch in 2nd with an upgraded clutch?

Does it chatter too much?

 

[Rob Thomas]

( All the metallic clutches and combo metallic and organic discs, will chatter, eat flywheels and you can't take off in 2nd anymore. My $. 02 worth.

Where did you hear that from? Or how did you come to that conclusion?



There are plenty of great clutches available, none of which eat flywheels, some of which won't/don't chatter, and all of them can be started out in 2nd, 3rd, and in some cases even 4th gear. Do some searching on these boards, and some calling around, you'll find what you need and what your looking for.





Rob

 

[Billy Diesel]

With the Luk Cerametallic, the clutch is like a toggle switch. On or off. With the stock clutch I would start out in second simply by letting out the clutch pedal. I didn't need to touch the throttle. Now, to start out in 2nd, I need to rev it up, let the clutch out a little to get it going, and then let the throttle and clutch out at the same rate until the clutch fully engages. Does that make sense? Another way to put it is I have to rev up the engine, slip the clutch, and then drop the revs as the clutch engages. That is the only way I can start in second without a violent, instant engagement. BTW, this is with an empty truck. A load does help a lot.

 

[RHARVEY]

SBC Con OFE 13" upgrade... currently with 40k on it. I had it out at 36k to replace what I thought was a pilot bearing but turned out to be an input shaft bearing. Flywheel was as smooth as a baby's butt and no hot spots. I do start out in 2nd gear and yes you have to learn how to match it in to make a smooth start. I do tow a 11k 5th wheel with this truck every month. I can feather the clutch when I am putting the trailer into an rv post with no problems on jumping and bucking...

Do I have any questions on what will go into the truck when this clutch finally goes out... NOPE... it will be another SBC!



Rick

 

[Nickaru]

I have been calling around. Peter at SBC, Tom at Carolina Clutch, Patti at Haisley Machine and someone at Dial a clutch. I have PM'd other TDR members. They all tell me with a metallic plate, it's harder on the flywheel (metal to metal), it's either in or out, no sliding the clutch as to back up your trailer. I have had some experience in the past with metallic discs on a different application and it's similar. They all tell me that if you have four wheel drive, several people have reported using 4 low to back up. That way, the clutch is completely engaged and your not barrelling backwards too fast to back up your trailer. A suggestion of a toggle switch to disengage my front axle was mentioned while backing in four wheel drive from these folks. The same was said about second gear starts from a stop. "You'll get some good chatter and it's recommended to start in first all the time, even when not towing". I like my second gear starts, 1st is sometimes too hard to get in when the light turns green (I idle with the truck in neutral).

JWBOOTHE: Why cant you launch in 2nd with an upgraded clutch?

I don't want to launch as in racing. Just take off. I'm sure you can rev it up, side step the clutch in second and it won't chatter. That's not what I'm looking for.

As BILLYDIESEL stated: you have to rev it up in first now to take off with the new clutch.

I have been doing my homework. I'm looking for something that holds the little extra power that I have and the same characteristics as a stock clutch. IMPOSSIBLE?