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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Which Turbo would be Best Value for me?

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to accompany the mods listed in my signature, I'm looking for good dependable Turbo that will help control EGT's while towing our 30' travel trailer, and provide some fun factor for everyday driving. Currently I really have to monitor the temps on any incline and would like some more safety margin. I want to retain the Pak Brake currently mounted on the backside of the stock turbo, so I know my choices will be limited. Rip at Source Automotive has recommended the Dodgezilla, and it seems reasonable for what I want, but I am wondering if there are others that may be a better bang for the buck.
 
The Dodgezilla and PDR35 are among the few that will allow you to keep you exhaust mounted exhaust brake. I went from a HY to PDR35, but have not towed much yet to see how much it has helped with EGT. Mark at PDR said 150 degrees for my setup.



Between the HX35 you already have and the Dodgezilla or PDR35, I not sure that you will see that much reduction in EGT. I hear that the Dodgezilla works at higher RPMs than the PDR, and may not be that good for towing.



What EGT are you seeing and where is your probe. I back off at 1250 pre turbo. SNOKING
 
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High Tech turbo also has holset 35/40 hybrids. To keep a turbo mount exhaust brake you need to stay with a holset hx-35 based turbo.
 
SNOKING, pre and post turbo mounted Pyros, and I too can hit 1200 pre turbo pretty quickly. the real challenge is freeway speed, the truck is real happy in 5th gear at 55 to 57 mph on the flat, but if I try to get into 6th it won't pull up to 65 without running hot. I know most would say 50 to 57 is fast enough, but 62 to 65 on the open road is confortable when I can get there.



I'll research the others, thanks fellas.
 
I assume that you have 3. 55 gears. Maybe a Smarty would help spool the turbo at low RPMs, as the issue appears to be to low of RPM to spool the turbo in 6th gear and get up so boost. Get ahold of Bob or RIP and see if you can trial one. They work good on the 6 speed from what I have read. From what I have read and heard the Dodgezilla would make it worse. SNOKING
 
The real challenge is freeway speed, the truck is real happy in 5th gear at 55 to 57 mph on the flat, but if I try to get into 6th it won't pull up to 65 without running hot.



Like SNOKING says, the Dodgezilla/14 will make that scenario worse. Been there, done that. I wanted a bigger turbo that would let me keep my Jacobs brake, but the DZ/14 would get my egts cookin' partial-throttle below 2k rpm. My HTB2/12 is an improvement, but it's still a little saggy compared to stock. Even though it's not perfect, I still don't regret putting the exhaust brake on the shelf...



And the constant acceleration smoke from the DZ, ugh...



Don't fall for the "add fuel" line. If you're running hot accelerating in 6th at partial throttle, adding more fuel (more heat) won't really help matters much, would it?:D



For a towing turbo, keep the housing small to keep the turbo on-boost in the midrange (12cm is just fine). And don't jump too large on the compressor wheel, since that also moves the power band up and takes away from the bottom end. A PDR35/12 would be a great towing turbo, and you can re-use your exhaust housing and save some $.







On edit, just out of curiosity, what are you using for boost fooling or a boost elbow? How much boost are you seeing?
 
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"A PDR35/12 would be a great towing turbo, and you can re-use your exhaust housing and save some $. "



Actually you can ship them your turbo and they will make it into a PDR35, if you can have the truck down for a couple weeks. Cost is very reasonable. Or find a used HX35 and then sell yours when you are converted.

SNOKING
 
SNOKING, pre and post turbo mounted Pyros, and I too can hit 1200 pre turbo pretty quickly. the real challenge is freeway speed, the truck is real happy in 5th gear at 55 to 57 mph on the flat, but if I try to get into 6th it won't pull up to 65 without running hot. I know most would say 50 to 57 is fast enough, but 62 to 65 on the open road is confortable when I can get there. I'll research the others, thanks fellas.



A SMARTY will do wonders for towing and EGT's. It has lowered my EGT's by around 50* and given me lots more usable power. The 1MPG increase is a bonus:D
 
yup on the 3:55 gears. no current boost fooling or boost elbow. currently can get 24 p. s. i. boost but will back it down to maintain 1150 degrees, 4th gear @ 2300 rpm. that seems to be the limits to control the temps, can't remember what the boost is at these rpm's but I don't think more pressure would help would it, just maybe better pressure. there were two different scenrios. First was a steep incline up the west side of Mt Hood, 6% for about 5 miles. the other was up the east side of Mt Hood, a long steady gradual grade in 5th gear that I really had to watch the temps on. The steep stuff doesn't concern me as much since it doesn't last as long, but 10 to 15 miles with your eyes glued to to the pyro gets nerve racking.
 
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GCulp... ever thought about a water/methanol setup for your truck. I have been looking into a Snow performance setup although there are several out there, painless has a new one that looks good. I tow a rock crawler Jeep on a flat bed, total weight about 4. 5K not counting the load in the truck. Here on the west coast we got lots of mountains (sierra's & others) and the egt's can get out of control in a hurry.

_________________________________________

4. 5 CRD AEM Edge w/ attitude, rocktech exhault MTM industrial oil bypass system, etc.

IverE
 
Water/Meth

Yeah I looked into the water/meth route, but who needs to complicate things, a pump, nozzles, reservoir, hoses, wires, relays, switches, etc. I'm sure it has it's place, just not under my hood. I'm looking for something a little less complicated.



I'm gonna call Rip tomorrow and squeeze everything I can out of him, weighing all pros and cons of a turbo vs. a Smarty. I've always believed that mechanical horsepower, ie: intake, injectors, exhaust, and turbo, is the most reliable, I've never been a fan of the magical boxes, but I've never heard anything bad about the Smarty.



The only other concern I have is the low rpm growl my 6 speed makes when lugging it, I am concerned that when I start putting more power through it at low rpms it's gonna give me issues.
 
Yup buy a smarty and a boost elbow, push your boost up to ~30lbs and you should be fine with EGT's.



John



+1



The stock 35/12 is good for about 34psi, then it starts making things hot again. Wind 'er up a bit more and the temps will come down. Not to mention the timing advance from the Smarty should be good for about a 50-100* egt reduction, too.
 
I just can not understand why someone would buy a truck with 3. 55 gears when they know they will be towing with it?? It just makes no sense.



The water/ meth might be a solution, but mounting the pump and getting enough water are concerns. I like the Hy breed HX35 option.
 
Just my opinion... . :rolleyes:



Towing in 5th is better option. What rpm is that at for you?



I think that a bigger turbine case than the 12cm of the hx35, running at the same engine rpm that you currently towing at will likely run even hotter. The 12cm stock casing is not restrictive at low to mid rpm's.



So be careful when ordering another turbo and make sure that the vender understands what rpm you like to tow at. Possible a hybrid with a 12cm turbine case might make a bit more boost and help you out if you want to keep your brake. Otherwise there are allot more options if you want to change to a remote mounted brake.



I ran my DZ 14cm as a single for bit, EGT's were worse until I got over 2000 RPM. So if I stayed in 4th and 2000 - 2200 rpm's (5 speed) my EGT's were really happy. In 5th, even empty on the medium grades, I had problems unless I stomped on it and barreled up the hill. Home for me is around 4000 feet.



Good luck;

Jim
 
I ran my DZ 14cm as a single for bit, EGT's were worse until I got over 2000 RPM. So if I stayed in 4th and 2000 - 2200 rpm's (5 speed) my EGT's were really happy. In 5th, even empty on the medium grades, I had problems unless I stomped on it and barreled up the hill. Home for me is around 4000 feet.



How did things change for you after you hung the S400 off the bottom? (I'm assuming the new rpm cutoff is less than 2000, but how much?)
 
I just can not understand why someone would buy a truck with 3. 55 gears when they know they will be towing with it?? It just makes no sense.



YUP!



In another related thread, another RVer towing heavy has 3. 55's, AND 31. 5 tires - and wonders what HE can do to maintain power and reduce EGT's...



Jeeze guys, you DO have to sorta figure out how your truck will be used, and then tailor it's options to most closely permit proper operation under those conditions - not simply stack on lots of appearance goodies like tires and wheels, and power mods that in themselves contribute to elevated EGT - and THEN start applying bandaids to fix problems that should have been considered in the beginning...



Chances are, that fine looking truck that does so well from stoplite-to-stoplite, will sadly disappoint when towing a heavy 5er up a steep grade! ;):-laf
 
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