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Which Year to Buy

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Hey Folks, Great forum. I haven't bought a truck yet. I want to get some insite as to which year would be better, a 2001 or 2002. I want the quad cab without a pillar in the middle. Also this puts me in a more affordable range. I thinking about a 2500 Quad 4x4 diesel. Not sure of the transmission yet. I'll be doing some towing, some off-roading, and some rush hour traffic, I live in congested San Diego. Concerning the HO, is this engine only matched up to the six speed or something else. Is there a recall on the lift pump and at what mileage does this unit start failing at. I am also thinking of buying a unit off of e-bay. Any comments on this would be greatly appreciated. I plan to make my own B100. Gas hear in SD is near $3. 00 and buying B20 at RTC is usually about 20 cents higher than what petro diesel goes for. And I'm getting real tired of giving my money to OPEC and these greedy American oil companies. : :)
 
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B100

Welcome to the club. Do search here on home-brew biodiesel or WVO. From what i read here the VP44 injection pump is one that the home brew kits recommend AGAINST using. There a lots of opinions out there but you should be able to do some solid research on this site



best of luck
 
Third gens (2003-up) have advantages in braking, steering, handling as well as "real" rear doors. Being the new body style, they will keep their value better. And, you won't have the dreaded VP44 injection pump and problematic lift pump of the 2nd gen 24 valves.
 
The H. O. was only available with the 6sp.

If you get a late 2002 the front axle won't have the center axle disconnect.

Some have problems getting them to engage.
 
Country of Origin

Thanks folks for all the info. 03,huh. Don't think I could afford that. I have been looking at E-bay and have notice a lot of trucks have a "3" in the first position on the Vin. This is for country of origin. What does this mean? Was it built in Mexico and/or sold in Mexico. If so, how does their diesel compare to the quality in the US? When I was buying diesel back in 1980 for my Rabbit, Mexican diesel was not known for it's quality storage so it usually had a bit of water in it. An 03, boy, I might have to look into that.
 
I think you'll find that the Mexican-built trucks are preferred for higher build quality by many owners. Both of my Mexican-built Rams have been exceptionally well constructed.



Rusty
 
jbob,

I have a 2002 that I may be regretably selling. Having a TDR member get it would at least lessen the pain. You can pm me if you want to know more.

Doug
 
jbob. .

In my opinion and I am a tad biased the best year to buy is the 1998 Quad Cab 4x4 5spd equipped with the older 12valve mechanical motor. They are much easier to modify later and have the "quad cab" option you desire. They,however,are at times like finding a needle in a haystack as they are very desirable to those who do modifications..... Andy
 
I agree with Andy. Besides, if you do find one and an unsuspecting owner, they can be cheaper than a 01-02.

FWIW, there are 2 quad cab 12V/autos here in NM for sale.
 
Don't go with a 3rd gen truck. They are nice but prices are still pretty high on them and the HPCR system is more complicated than a 24v or 12v system. Future costs are higher and the 3rd gens wont like the bio diesel as much. 12V is a perfect bio diesel engine. 24V is good if you run a FASS system on it to save the VP44
 
'02 works for me.

If I could find one with 30k I would buy it and sell mine. And gladly eat the difference.



As stated the front axle disconnect has cause some grief.



The quad cab is sized right, and you won't miss the pillar a bit. But a crew cab it is not, and was never meant to be. A real convenient club cab is more like it.



the 4 wheel discs stop on a dime (then picks it up).



The lift pump can go as soon as you leave the lot. The new lift pump could last as long as the first. Monitor fuel pressure.



You'll want to buy fender liners and hood insulation.



Ebay scares me. I've got some good deals and I've got junk. I would hate to get boned and filleted over a $20k truck. Two weeks ago I wanted to bid on a boat. The seller said he couldn't run it because it's "winterized". Hows that saying go "the checks in your mouth, I won't come in your mail".

You get my meaning.

As far as trans go, I have no left foot. So auto it is.

Q: Do you know why the 47R/48R is the best auto trans made?

A: it is the only one you can get behind a cummins!!





We need a "buyers guide" forum.....
 
jbob said:
Thanks folks for all the info. 03,huh. Don't think I could afford that. I have been looking at E-bay and have notice a lot of trucks have a "3" in the first position on the Vin. This is for country of origin. What does this mean? Was it built in Mexico and/or sold in Mexico. If so, how does their diesel compare to the quality in the US? When I was buying diesel back in 1980 for my Rabbit, Mexican diesel was not known for it's quality storage so it usually had a bit of water in it. An 03, boy, I might have to look into that.

jbob - A 3 in the 1st VIN position means assembled in the Mexico plant but in most cases sold in the US. There were 2 plants - St Louis and Mexico. There has been debate on which plant has the better quality of build - but pretty even at the end of the day.



My vote is an 01. 5 with the 4 wheel disk brakes (after all I'm biased). However I did factory order mine after seeing what the 3rd gen were going to look like. They continued the 2nd gen 2500/3500 in 02, but if you get one definitely get the rear fender liners. They dropped the liners in 02, and never put them on the 3rd gens. Really makes the rear wheel wells look open and ugly (like a chevy) IMO.



Some think the 02's loss of the CAD is an improvement, but I disagree. With no CAD you always spin the front ring/pinion and driveshaft (with CAD only the spider gears spin when disengaged). Also, without the CAD you can't get 2 wheel drive low range. The CAD system itself is sound - only the vacuum actuator gives problems. But there are cable replacements available for the vacuum motor. You can tell if an 02 has CAD by looking at the front axle. On the passenger side, near the wheel end a CAD system will have a large bulge in the axle tube. No CAD has a straight axle tube all the way from the pumpkin to the wheel.



I think the 53 blocks were before the 01. 5 build cycle, but you can check out the engine serial number by looking at the data plate on the front of the engine. If you get up on the driver's side front wheel and look at the side of the front cover you will see the plate. You can also check on the applicability of the lift pump TSB using the engine serial number. Click here to see specifics on the TSBs.



The HO engine only came with the 6 speed manual trans. The HO also includes a Dana 80 rear end - same as the 3500. All other 2500's get the Dana 70.



Agree that the 12V motor would be nice to have (I've owned both) but the old brake system is horrible, and you can't get the 6 speed into a 12V unless you do a 4500/5600 conversion. So if $$$ are a concern and you want a 6 speed, my belief is that it's cheaper to maintain a 24V with the brakes fixed and the 6 speed already installed than to retro the brakes and transmission on a 12V - just watch the fuel pressure into the VP44 and keep the filter clean.



If you find one with less than 100K miles, then the VP44 and lift pump are still under warranty. Just make sure the VP44 pump wire has not been tapped (big wire going into the VP44) or the warranty will be voided.



Good luck in your decision.
 
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jbob,

I had a 02 and traided it for an 03 as soon as they came out. Lots of advantages in 03 & 04, not to mention that real back doors are a huge improvement, so would recommend one of thos if you can swing it!!
 
If you are not opposed to the 4 doors, I would seriously look into the 3rd gen truck perferably the 03 HO. If you look at the prices they are very close if not about the same. For some reason the the late model 2nd gens are listed for all the money. But if you really do your home work, for a few dollars more you can have a new truck for a really good deal. I am seeing 2nd gen going for 25,000-30,000 dollars where as the 03's are listing for 28,000-33,000 dollars. If you talk to some of the dealer people (Tommyboy) on this site, depending on the options you can almost get a new one for this price.



But anyway you gotta buy what you like, but do the homework first.



Russ
 
02

I have an 02, made in Jan/ Feb of that year.

Except for the Ball Joints , I love the truck. WAY more power than I'll ever need, & she does stop well with those brakes. A VERY IMPORTANT thing to thing about, considering all the mass that you'll be driving, takes a lot of " stop" power for all the GO power the Cummins has.



I have put a banks exh brade ( lovve the way its made) & 4" ex on her, along with an AFE air filter, & "Air Bulldog" cowel induction hood, to get more air to that filter. Turbo spins up FAST, & she'll really surprise Mustang GT's.



Only down side, the Turbo won't stop spining. With the reduction in back pressure & open air input, you can let her idle for 10 minutes, Shut her down, & STILL hear the turbo spin down. . I really need to add an pre/after oiler to it.
 
jbob, I've shopped prices & model years for quite awhile now. milehigh. o has it right. All used prices are HIGH when compared to a well shopped new vehicle price. Also shop charges for working on a used old rig are same as nearly new rig so if you're buying some of your work done then you can quickly run up a bill that equals a fair chunk of vehicles book value. I'll buy new and keep it for a good long time. That'll make it a great spend on money. Good luck on your shopping. JimB.
 
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