Whistle sound under load

[DKGross]

Today I suddenly got/heard a whistle sound under load. It was accompanied by a loss of power and lots of black smoke. All this while not towing anything. It was preceeded for just a moment by what sounded like extra high vent noise.



I am sure this has been covered in the past but with the search feature down I am out of luck. Another DC owner told me he had the same noise, loss of power and smoke and it was a broken valve spring.



Since it is Friday night I probably will not be able to get into my dealer until early next week.



Any ideas out there? Any and all suggestions will be appreciated.



Rig = 98. 5 Quadcab, 2500 4 X 4, auto.

 

[juicedcummins]

Check all intercooler clamps.

 

[Whitmore]

also check the gasket before and after the inlet grid heater on your air horn, sounds to me as if you lost your boost air.

 

[bighammer]

I would think a valve spring would be an ugly clatter clank noise. Intercooler boots seems more likely. I heard somebody say their wastegate actuator failed (or something like that) and had it open all the time. Similar no-boost symtoms

 

[DKGross]

It was the inlet clamps

Thanks juicedcummins, et al.



It was the inlet clamps. There sure are a lot of them. The one at fault apparently was the bottom one on the right front coming from(?) the intercooler. The clamp was loose enough that it has slipped from its original location.



Glad it was not the valve springs.



Question for Whitmore - after looking all over for a diagram or pictures I could find anything that gives the location of the inlet grid heater and/or air horn. I might as well check that too, but need more information.



Thanks - help like this was one of the reasons for joining TDR.



Dave

 

[Whitmore]

Dave

the inlet air horn is what the intercooler feeds to , this is an aluminun piece that connects to the engine from intercooler , anyhow at the base of the airhorn in a square block that has the inlet grid heater in it , the heater has some big wires going to it too, the heater is square and about 4x4 inches... ... ... hope this helps... ... ..... Kevin

 

[cwsoules]

You should check the tightness periodically if you stick with the stock clamps. I have had three "blow off" incidents when towing up steep grades. The first certainly was scary and the rest annoying. Mine were at the outlet of the turbocharger.



Kustom Truck in Yuba City, CA installed some new clamps and "fixed" the problem.

 

[RJOL]

I get a little bit of a "whoosh" noise at about 15psi of boost. I've checked the clamps and bolts on the heater grid, and also pressurized the system up to about 10psi and checked for air leaks. Can't find any... Wondered if the noise might be coming from the hole in the boost elbow mod???

 

[DKGross]

Whitmore - thanks for the info

Thanks for the info. I wondered if it might be near the turbo but your information helps.



RJOL, Both of the new noises I got yesterday were very noticeable. The woosh or very loud push of air seemed to fill the cab - I tried to figure out where it was coming from. The whisle was much louder outside (big suprise there) than inside. All the other vehicles I was on the road with would look as they passed or as I passed them when the whistle was present. By the way I did pull off to look and see if there was anything readily noticeble before continuing home. Since I tightened the inlet clamps all is good.



cwsoules - I was thinking about some blue loc tight on the clamps. But wonder if just periodic tightening would be better. The one that let go was only accessible from the ground and in checking the three others from the ground they all needed tightening. Oh well, one more lesson learned. No damage but it was a real suprise when it let go, all of a sudden no warning.



Thanks to all.



Dave

 

[cwsoules]

Dave



I should have also said that it was necessary to make certain the clamp was square to the fitting it was clamping to. When cocked it was easier for it to blow off. the first tightening was done by a Dodge dealer and I noticed that the clamp was cocked. i did nothing about it and it blew off on the next long 6% grade I found.



The only other loud noise problem I have had was when the exhaust manifold bolts came loose. We first noticed it when the exhaust barake was in use, but it got much worse. When I finally got around to checking these bolts I found the #6 cylinder bolts to be finger tight! Bill K has recommended that I check periodically, but I had not done it. When tightened the noise went away.

 

[DKGross]

cwsoules

Chuck,



I had my exhaust manafold crack and be replace under warrenty. I have a 98. 5 so the manafold was weak, the replacement looks very strong.



How do you like your set up from DTT? Did you have them do the complete rebuild on your trans? I am planning on a complete rebuild in about a year. So until then I am trying to stay as close to stock as I can. I do have an EZ and yes I am careful with what I do until I get it bombed correctly.



And I have talked to Bill K by phone, that is when I got the EZ. I just cannot afford the trans work at the moment. This economy has hit my company and therefore me. I am holding on but...



Anyway, thanks for the advice. Seems like these CTD require loving care for all their brute strength they need TLC.



Dave