white smoke and miss

[Plandon]

Hey guys, Hows things? Just got back from Michigan. Redleg I apoligize for not calling you while I was there. Its just didn't work out. Back to the proublem at hand ,My brother in law had to remove the injection pump on his 93 3/4 t . Says he was very carful not move anything while doing this , the little rubber seal on the back side of the pump started leaking so the pump had to come off , All that for less than $2. 00 in parts, huh go figure . Anyway after putting it back on and bleading everything it smokes white and misses when you accelerate. Anyone have any ideas on what could have been missed?

 

[PPeters]

Others will correct me in case I'm wrong, but I believe white smoke indicates you're pulling air from somewhere. I'd check the fuel lines to see if everything is tight and white.



Pat

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

You should check/set your pump timing a bit higher. White smoke is one sign of retarded timing.

The miss may be air in the inj. system. Start at the bleed screw on the side of the engine between the lift pump and the inj pump.

Loosen the banjo fitting a tad and operate the lift pump lever or have someone kick the engine over with the key.

You should hold the manual shut down lever while the engine is cranking if you use this method. That way you can do some cranking with the engine starting. Once there appears to be no air/bubbles at that fitting snug it up and move on to the injectors.

Use a rag and just loosen the fuel line nut a bit... if you get a good squirt, tighten and move on.

This is all best done on a cool engine if possible.



Bob.

 

[dpuckett]

I'd agree with PPeters. In my experience, the white smoke has been more of a timing issue; air in lines has resulted in coughing, hacking, wheezing, and violent shaking, (in other words, running like a cold Ford PSD) along with trying to idle at 350 until it gets the air out. Does it have an almost pinging rattle under acceleration? I think that is a little toward the extreme end of the spectrum, but I had a 93 that happened to, and i just had to bump the pump up about a thick 1/8" and all was well. The reason I lean more toward timing is that after 2 or 3 miles, you SHOULD have all the air bled out. Note emphasis on 'should. ' Unless it had blown out a chunk of the gasket, and was leaking like aseive, I'd have left it alone. But it is a good excuse to check the timing for good and certain.



Daniel

 

[Plandon]

runs crapy & smokes

Well we bumped the timing up to 1/8th rebleed all the fittings and she still runs like crap,she really started shakeing when we advanced the timing. Is there anything that you need to adjust after you advance the timing? Does this alway happen when you remove the pump or is this one of them OOps is ?

 

[RDusch]

PLandon



This may sound like a no brainer but check the high presure lines real close and make shure you did'nt get any of them switched, theres a couple that will get switched pretty easy.



when looking in the manual the firring order listed for the pump is as viewed from the front, not the hight pressure end.



Rick

 

[Plandon]

gotter fixed

I'd like to thank you guys for all the hepl TDR comes thru again. It was just all air ,had to bleed it several times to get it all out. I would never have guest there would be that much air in there, so kinda point to rember if you pull your pmup be sure you rember to bleed it several times , once won't do it. It sure a good feeling when a plan comes together.