Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) White smoke hard start

[BJMarshall]

Ijust got another 2001. QC Dually 4x4. It's a really nice truck, but it had a problem when I got it. It won't start without a little snort of ether. It runs kinda rough when it starts like it has a dead miss, and blows a ton of white smoke. Smoke smells like diesel and will burn your eyes. It seems to make pretty good power, but I haven't driven it far.

I checked the codes first and there are none. I checked the lift pump pressure and it is good. What to check next? I've got a good set of injectors, but I don't want to go through the trouble of chaning them if there is no chance that is the problem.

Could it be injectors, or do I need to put a IP on it?

Thanks

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I wonder if it's sucking air someplace between the tank and lift pump? Maybe it's losing prime when it sits because of a bad overflow valve.



How does it start if you've only had it shut down for 5 minutes? Next time you start it for the first time of the day, try bumping the key to cycle the lift pump first. Do this a couple times, then try starting it.



Your symptoms do sound similar to a dying VP44 though but I'd think you would have set codes by now.

 

[AFellows]

Are your grid heaters working? I guess they might not be if you used ether and haven't had any fire.

 

[Graphic man]

sounds like a timing issue from the VP44



white smoke can be un-burnt fuel or low compression

 

[Joe Mc]

I'v never tried this but have seen it mentioned several times on the TDR. If it has a miss once it's running a way to figure out which cylinder is missing (where'd it go???) (hopeful it's just a clogged injector) loosen the fuel supply to an injector tube (visible in the driver side of the head) for about 5 - 10 seconds - if the engine stumbles then it's not that cylinder. The other thing you are checking in the process is if fuel is being delivered to the injector. Make sure you cover the line nut and wrench with a rag and don't get your hands near any fuel spray it'll imbed into your sking and cause an infection. Check one then then next until you find the one that dosen't make the engine stumble. However, if your problem is starting and then after it starts it runs rough for 5 - 10 seconds then smooths oput, this is more than likely a fuel delivery issue as Vaughn mentioned earlier. If it still has the stock LP these have been the weak link in the system and have helped many a VP to their untimely demise. The hard start, runs rough for 5 - 10 +/- seconds then smooths out syndrome is something that I experience when the fuel filter is changed - the hard start is because air gets into the lines and the VP isn't delivering the correct amount of fuel to the sticks then once it does and starts it smooths out - at least this always happend to me w/stock LP haven't changed filter yet w/new GFS-392 system - see sig.

This cracking the injector line method is similar to unplugging a spark pulg wire on each cylinder in a gasser to identify by listening for the tap, knock, or miss to stop.

Hope this helps somewhat. Good luck.

 

[NoSeeUm]

At some point an inquiring mind wants to know. Where do you spray the ether in at?



It does not seem to me that a hot grid heater and ether is something that would co-exist on a friendly basis. Disconnect the grid heater before using ether?



Jim

 

[BJMarshall]

Either disconnect the grid heater, or wait until they cool before attempting a start. I disconnect them to avoid an explosion.

Remove the airbox cover and spray ether toward turbo. Only spray while engine is turning over, and it only takes a tiny shot to crank a "stock" 5. 9 Cummins. If it takes more than just a little there is a problem, or you are cranking a highly modified, low compression motor.

 

[BJMarshall]

I loosened the lines as mentioned in Joe Mc's post. This method works well except on the new CR motors.

It wound up being the first one I loosened. Number one. I had never seen one do like this, but there was actual cylinder pressure coming out when I loosened the line. All the others would have a dead miss and a little fuel would come out. THis one had a ton of pressure on it and was misting fuel all over the place.

It wound up that the number one injector had the tip broken off. Not only was it not spraying correctly, it was allowing cylinder pressure to travel all the way back to the IP. I am sure this created all kinds of confusion for the fuel system.

I had a set of 275RV injectors I had purchased for my truck so I just stuck them in there. Truck runs perfect now. Seems to be a little quiter that the average 24V truck.

I also want to add that the 275RV injectors seems to be a rather inexpensive mod. They offer a lot of bang for the buck. Very little smoke. They are a nice addition to a stock truck. I plugged my smarty in to give it a try. On level 5 with the 275's it was really fun.

I'm guessing the tip just went on its way and didn't cause any damage. Compression balance feels pretty good and there is no blowby or smoke.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Man you got lucky. . . was it the very tip of the tip, or did the entire tip piece come out of the injector body??

 

[BJMarshall]

Just the tippy tip if that's a word :-laf

When i first pulled it out I didn't notice it. I was looking down the injector hole to see if I could see anything. I picked the injector up and held it under the light and that's when I noticed what was wrong. Only a very, very small piece came off. I agree, very lucky indeed.

Now what to do for injectors for my truck.