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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Who has changed the rubber fuel lines ?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Watch your fuel filter

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Eating front brake pads

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What mileage was it done at and how hard was it to do ?

My 94 started going at 25k,I have seen others last to 100k. The difficulty has more to do with your abilities.

I have done so many it's something I could do in my sleep. I would recommend doing a good cleaning before starting the task.





Bob
 
I did mine at about 180k two years ago. The job isn't too bad as long as you don't have any other air leaks(if so it is really hard to prime again). If you don't mind torquing your body around a bit, you can even do it without lowering your tank or removing the bed.
 
Mine are still the factory originals,:) but I have heard that the soybean diesel will eat up the rubber. I do know that the synthetic diesel ruined my bed liner when the bed tank got a leak. turned the bed liner into a wavy crooked mess with humps all over. :eek: I want to put on synthetic diesel compatable hoses but can't find them . anybody have any ideas???
 
I did mine a while ago and replaced with marine grade fuel lines—so far so good. The job is annoying but not impossible. For me it was like spaying a fat dog, you can't see what you're doing so your hands just have know what they're doin!! Compared to the dang A/C evap in the dash, it was nothing!!
 
Oh BTWA, now would be a good time to check the boot on the fuel solenoid—my thinking IMHE it caused fuel starving when restarting shortly after shutdown which would confuse the issue with fuel starving from air bleeds and a fuel line change. Apparently corrosion on the solenoid plunger can be the culprit.
 
My oem hoses were replaced under warranty at 20,000 the 2nd set lasted 80,000 to 100,000 when I replaced them. It's an aggravating job.

Make sure there are no children around. ;)
 
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It's an aggravting job.

Make sure there are no children around. ;)



What he said. ;) I haven't replaced the rubber lines coming off the tank yet, but I can tell you short rubber line under the intake manifold is a PAIN to do. Of course, once I wised up and removed the fuel filter canister on my '98, it was a little easier to access. :eek::rolleyes:



CTD12V
 
its a good company, talk to them they are really good with salesmanship and knowledge.



goodluck





2002 HO 6-SPD LB 4X4 QC HTT 62/14 SB-FE SMARTY TST PM3 MACH 4'S, RINGED AND STUDS, AFE/2:eek: " 4"EXHAUST D/PRICOL PYRO,BOOST,FUEL FASS 150, VULCAN 1/2 DRAW-STRAW, 3/8 FUEL LINE, DSS-TRAC-BAR STEER-BOX, RIDE RITE AIR BAGS,17'' KMC BLACK HOSS, 315/70/17 MICKTHOM MTZ'S 6" RCD LONG ARM LIFT AND DE-BADGED FOR FUEL MILEAGE. :-laf
 
They can be accessed easiest, at least to me, by removing the wheel and plastic fender liner. Not a very fun job but after doing it once it doesn't take very long to do. It's just hard to see what you're doing.
 
I changed mine at 70k and it was not too bad of a job on my 98 12v 2 wheel. I removed the left front wheel and the fender liner and the fuel filter canister (good time to change the fuel filter, $50 at the dealer $15 at some part stores/repair shops) and went to an auto parts store and got the heaviest duty hose they had. Turned out to be much heavier about double. Used on some auto transmissions. I am not saying it will be better but common sense tells me it should last much longer. I saved the most important part for the last. Hydraulic jacks can not be trusted, new or otherwise. So that your wife does not become a widow use appropriate jack stands.
 
I replaced mine with 1/2" stainless steel braided lines when I removed the lift pump and fuel filter and re-located them to the back. It wasn't that hard since I stripped everything, and just ran the new fuel lines from the new pump/filter set-up to the VP44.
 
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