Who has welded on their frame?

[AMassaro]

I don't even have my truck yet but I planned on fabricating some rocker panel bars with steps for getting in my rig. This was going to involve welding to the sides of the framerails because I wanted it as stout as possible. Now I'm getting worried about this alleged "weak frame" issue.

 

[Cattletrkr]

I'd worry more about a voided warranty issue. DO NOT WELD TO YOUR FRAME!!!. There are lots of guys who have done it and probably did it correctly, but it's not worth it. Certainly not for cab steps. A lot of guys weld their gooseneck hitches in, something MNDOT loves to see (potential fines up the wazoo). I'd look at making some brackets to go around the frame instead. Might take longer and require some ingenuity, but welding to your frame is never a good idea. Now, if you're a professionsal welder and you know all the in's and out's of your state's codes, then what the heck, go ahead.



P. S. Drilling holes in the top and/or bottom of your frame is also a big no-no.

 

[fdbi]

I have welded 5er rails to my frame 03 2500 its all good so far

 

[klenger]

My Westin steps are bolted on and work just fine. I wouldn't even think about welding to the frame for something as basic as steps. There are a bunch of slots in the body underside to bolt to without even needing to drill.



No flame intended.

 

[aggieLR]

I see a lot of people saying not to weld to the frame, but for the past 30 years my father and past 50 years grandfather have welded thier goosneck hitches to the frame, and they farm, so a trailer is usually tied to the truck 75% of the time. I had a buddy weld mine in, he is a professional welder (not a so-called), he also welded his in an '03. We have both towed with them with 0 problems. If you check Chrysler's web site, they tell you about what you can and can't weld on the frames. If done properly, I think it's fine. It's the people that glob up a weld on them that isn't correct. It just heat treats the area and causes it to be brittle. I agree that I wouldn't weld some steps to the side of the frame rails because that is something that you want to be able to easily remove incase of getting bent, but not welding to your frame at all is non-sense.

 

[K5IP]

AM,

Stout as possible? I am not sure if that is a good idea. I have ripped several steps off of my 95Ram when 4 wheeling in southern Utah. I was always happy when the step ripped off without damaging anything else. There not difficult to replace.

Rog

 

[MChildress]

I welded my Tuff Country DRW running boards to the frame no problems they are solid no flex. Dodge has a frame modification spec sheet out that basicly says not to drill over a 3/4" hole in the sides and to use spacer so not to cave in the sides of the rail. Not to drill or weld the top and bottom of the frame rails. The sides can be welded and drilled from what I read unless this has changed. Mine have been solid as a rock for a year now with no problems.

 

[JHardwick]

My GN hitch has been welded in since 2-03, used often and often heavy ... ... ... ... ... no problems

 

[y-knot]

Do yourself a favor, anything you build that gets attached to your trucks frame, should not be welded into place. Take the extra time it requires to make brackets that bolt into place. Since you have a newer truck, this will require more effort then if it was on and older one. The new hydro-formed frames will require that you use spacers so that the frame is not allowed to be pulled into itself. This is a pain, but can be done. Just go into the project knowing it will take longer and cost more then it might have on another type of frame.

The debate about these Hydro-formed frames is funny. Dodge would like to make everyone think they they are much stronger and the new process is a step forward from the past way of building a truck. But the fact is they are only cheaper to build. After all that is what Dodge bases most of their decisions on, how much will they save per unit. The advertisements are very misleading, they say they are stronger, offer more rigidity. This is true to a point, it all depends on what figures you are looking at. Hydro-Forming a frame rail is simple, quick, makes for less welds and saves time and MONEY. This is why they do it, not because it is any stronger, it is just cheaper. And when they stout about how strong they are, they are comparing the similar size and thickness metal against one that is not boxed or formed. Sure give me a piece of boxed steel tubing and it will be STRONGER then a similar piece of metal that is not a tube, but is it any better? Depends on the application. The old first and second generation trucks were very stout, but pound for pound the new style trucks offer much more rigidity. This is great, it makes the truck handle better on the road, and saves weight which should translate into fuel savings down the road. Is it stronger I say NO. Strength and durability are two key factors any HD truck ought to exhibit, did they build the new frames stronger or make them more durable? NO, they built them lighter, and they built them with more torsional rigidity, which may or may not be a good thing, all depends how you use your truck. If you never haul much and always drive on the pavement, it might be a Good thing. But, if you tow heavy, use your truck in Fields, and UN-paved ares if might not be so good. The new frames are made of thiner metal, they have been formed and welded. In a perfect environment they may appear to be better, but in the real world they fall short. The deal about drilling the frames is real, they are worried about about people drilling through them to attach pieces without properly backing up the frame rails. The reason is that if you were to bore a 1/2" hole through the rail and then secure a piece by using a bolt that extends Thur the rail to a nut on the other side, when you tightened the nut it will draw the frame rail in. This sounds like no big deal to some, but is substantially weakens the frame. Think of a aluminum can, if the can is perfect, and has no dents it can withstand a fair amount of pressure, pushing from the top and bottom to-wards each other. But , make a small indent on any side and the can collapses toward that side with only a small amount of pressure. Mot implying that the new frames are week as soda pop cans, but you can maybe see the similarities. The welding has two problems. The new frames are very thin, it takes much more skill to weld two very different thicknesses of metal. Before your frames were 1/4" thick and most fabricated pieces were 3/16" to 1/4", not a problem for most welders. It is very much more difficult to properly attach pieces to the new frames. Second, is the frame itself. These frames have undergone under gone the hydro-forming process, they have been bent, welded on and then heat treated. When you go to weld on the frame, it will under go a very intense heat cycle. On other types of frames, that may or may not of been so bad, but on these it may very well result in cracks. The combination of thin metal, stress of forming, and your welding may very well prove fatal. The new combination of light weight frames on HD trucks is causing many to wonder. The aftermarket, has been very slow to respond to anything that might affect the frames. Heavy duty body makers, like Ohio Truck are having problems with the trucks they convert. Dodge isn't the only ones, Ford to is starting to having problems. For you and your truck's best interest, I would re-frame for doing anything which might hurt the longevity or warranty of your truck.

 

[AMassaro]

Thanks for all the options. I was going to weld a bracket to the frame and bolt onto that... . now I may just fab a bracket around frame as suggested. I have several reasons for wanting this to be as stout as possible. First, I don't want to prune one off if I'm off roading and snag a boulder or something. I want the protection against that type of thing. Second, I want more side protection in case of getting broadsided. I don't think the standard bolting to the body sidestep would help much in that reguard. Third, I love welding, though not an expert. It will be done with structural steel and dom tubing (roll cage type) so it will be strong. I also am going to fab up some bumper protection that may bolt to the existing tow hook plate.

 

[Grizzly]

Thank you y-knot. That was very informative. It answered all my questions about drilling and welding on my Truck frame. Grizzly

 

[vagabond]

I have my gooseneck welded to the frame. Showed it to the dealer. They looked it over and were fine with it. I have done some wild moves hauling cars and have had no problems. Everything is as it should be. Just follow all safety measures when welding.



Tommie

 

[SRadke]

I made a set of steps that are "bolt on" and very stout. Pictures in my readers rigs. I wouldn't be as concerned about welding for strength but legal issues.



-Scott

 

[KeithSmith1313]

I had my dealer install my hitch and brake box. Of course they subbed it out to a local shop that they tell me does all their work and has for like 10yrs and they welded it on.

 

[J&LRam]

had my 5er hitch brkts welded 45000 mi ago and no probs. My neighbor hot shots with a '03 3500 with welded brkts for 38ft goose neck that pulls in excess of 26000lb and has 170000 mi with no probs.

Someone says these frames are heat treated and to brittle for welding. Not so. These frames are made from AISI 1010-1019 steel that does not have enough carbon to get hard and works very well when welded with proper rods. JIM

 

[SRadke]

I have no proof but I would argue that the frames are made of mild steel. I have NEVER seen a truck frame made of mild steel, much less one as thin as ours. Besides that, if they were there would be no issues with welding them and DC would have never put out the warning to start with.



-Scott