Who Makes The Best Exhaust Brake?

[RAMINSPEED]

Who makes the best exhaust brake for an 06 stick? What do you think of the dealer installed Jacob brand brake? What's your opinion?

 

[RankRam]

I got my Pac Brake from Jim, he goes by the handle jelag.



The Jacobs is a great brake (I had one on my 99) but I like the thought of using a compressor for E-Brake activation instead of vacuum pump running whenever my engine is running.



What I'm trying to say is the only time my compressor runs is when I activate my Pac Brake. The Jacobs on the other hand has a vacuum pump that is always running. (It's belt driven)



I hope this helps ya!



BTW: This is part of Jim's sig.



Pacific Clutch & Brake / a PacBrake distributor

PacBrake PRXB's now in stock, pm me for TDR Pricing

 

[SRadke]

I'm usinf my seconf Pac brake on this truck and have loved them both. My first was s direct mount which I had to replace when I made turbo changes so now I'm using a 4" inline under the truck. Both have worked flawlessly and are air pressure activated.



The brake I'm currently using I have plumbed into the air tank I already had on the truck and control it with a generic $35 solenoid.



-Scott

 

[J&LRam]

Jacobs-Why not get a EB with a Dodge warranty. Something happens to the Cummins or the Jacobs EB Dodge fixes it under warranty. For me that was the most important. If your truck is out of warranty then get the one you like... ... ... . JIM

 

[RAMINSPEED]

Do you have in cab manual control of the Pac brake. Can you vary the amount of back pressure with a controller?

 

[SRadke]

Do you have in cab manual control of the Pac brake. Can you vary the amount of back pressure with a controller?

In cab control yes. Varying backpressure..... I suppose you could given a drive pressure/backpressure gauge and a regulator in line to the actuator cylinder. Wouldn't be difficult to do come to think of it.



-Scott

 

[RankRam]

Do you have in cab manual control of the Pac brake. Can you vary the amount of back pressure with a controller?

Here is a pic of my shifter mounted switch.



More pics in my gallery too.



#ad

 

[SRadke]

I have the standard switch on the dash as well as a pedal on the floor for convienience.



-Scott

 

[RWood]

I have the pacbrake PBRX and it works awesome, I originally had the regular one so I can compare. the regular would hold speed at low rpm while the pbrx will reduce speeds, huge difference @ 1000 rpm. Take a look at bondequipement.com they are the best prices I have seen, unless they have not updated their website.

 

[klenger]

I'm happy with the Jacobs.

 

[Diesel Nut]

I have a jacobs on my 03 and it was a good brake, up till the Vacuum pump went squeel. Not good noises from under the hood. Put the stock belt back on and now looking at getting a Pacbrake. I don't like the vacuum pump on the motor either. BTW, on 03 and up trucks there are no vacumm operated gadgets except for the cruise control on autos. These trucks have a small, electric vacuum pump. 5 and 6 speeds have no vacuum pump at all. The Jacobs bolts one onto your engine then has a longer belt to add the extra pully in the mix. Nice thing is the stock one works if you want to bypass it.

 

[ktb]

I don't have a exhaust brake but would like to some day. From what i have found out i would go with one from us gear. They have one that regulates the amount of back pressure so it dose not get to high at high rpm's. They have a good bit of info on it on there web site www.usgear.com

 

[mlandis2]

Happy with my Jacobs

 

[redfuelrules]

Hey Scott-

I really like the dimmer switch-type pedal idea. Where'd you spec the switch from and how'd you wire it with the dash switch. Nice truck btw.

Thanks.

Ben

 

[SRadke]

Hey Scott-

I really like the dimmer switch-type pedal idea. Where'd you spec the switch from and how'd you wire it with the dash switch. Nice truck btw.

Thanks.

Ben

There are some options for the switch. You can go to a truck shop and buy one with a "Jacobs" sticker on the side for $50-60 or do like I did and buy a generic 120volt motor controller switch from Grainger for $25. I'll see if I can dig you up a link later.



The wireing is pretty simple. To activate the brake there is a port in the ECM that needs to be grounded. Your install instructions will tell you which one. All you have to do is splice that wire and run one to each switch (floor and dash). Off the other side of the two switchs run a wire to ground.



This will allow both switch to work exactly the same and neither will activate the brake unless you've let off the throttle. You could wire it full on manual bypassing the ecm but I don't suggest that. They make a lot of smoke and bad noises if the brake is on while the engine is trying to fuel



-Scott

 

[SRadke]

I found your switch Redfuel.



This is the one I used:



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail. jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611760068&ccitem=



But they also have this one for half the money and it should work equally as well:



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail. jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1611716838&ccitem=

 

[JTurk]

I had my PacBrake installed before picking up the truck in May '04. Basically, product was great, but the install was a little marginal. After the first solenoid failure they remounted the compressor so it didn't flop in the breeze (down low on passenger side of radiator). That was after three months. After the next solenoid failure at about one year, they installed the relocation kit, which mounts the compressor on a plate that mounts over the intake manifold. (This is much, much quieter. ) Well, in two weeks the solenoid failed again so I picked up another replacement at the dealer and installed it myself. It lasted two days!



The main thing to keep in mind here is that when it works, it is fantastic. Really comparable with my Banks on the old '96. Also, all parts and labor were totally covered by PacBrake, even though the latter repairs were almost 14 months after getting the truck.



Then the time for me to go to work on it. I have determined that the relocation was a solid move, but the additional heat sitting on top of the engine is killing the solenoids. Since I also have the aux. tank below the passenger side of the cab I decided to get an upgrade solenoid valve and mount it down there. It has several benefits, cooler, and shorter distance for air travel to the piston. I also have added an extra power switch to manually control the compressor. This permits me to have air without the engine running so I can fill tires from my aux. air hose fitting. My next addition will be another solenoid for my new air horns.



Now, to address the variable pressure concern mentioned by several. When you use an exhaust brake as much as I do (always, towing or not) there is no such thing as too much braking. Also... . You already have a pressure regulator as part of the truck; it's called a transmission. Lower the gear, higher the RPM, the more braking. Too much, just shift up and RPM drops and so does back pressure and braking.



In closing, with just over 20K on the rig I would not consider any other brake. And, for a little added pleasure, the great sound it makes terminates by this really cool mechanical release sound that makes every head at the stop light turn!

 

[TCDiesel]

Relocation with old soleniod.

 

[TCDiesel]

One More... ... ... .

 

[SRadke]

The solenoid I'm using to control mine is mounted under the truck in the road splash and grim and has yet to give me any trouble. It's not a Pacbrake solenoid, I bought it from Grainger for about $35.



My engine compartment is too busy already to put an electric compressor up there too.



-Scott