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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Whoa nellie!

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Whoa Nellie! Ford hubs and brakes.

I finally have brakes! I replaced everything in the front axle, from the ball joints out, with parts from a 93 Ford F-350 4X4.



Includes: ball joints, outer knuckle, spindle, hub, hub/spindle bearings and seals, hub locks, rotors, and calipers.



I now have free spin hubs, serviceable hub bearings, and larger duel piston brake calipers. When I hit the brakes, it now stops straight and shorter. I wish I did this years ago.



I temporarily retained the stock inner axles and CAD due to finances and the desire to install the upgraded brakes as soon as possible. I will replace the inner axles (CAD delete) when I change gears and install a locker.



All this for under $1000. I recommend this to anyone with a 94 to 98 4x4.
 
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No, I only have rear wheel ABS. I don't believe 4 wheel ABS was offered for the 92-97 F-350. I could be wrong though. If it were offered, and the front tone rings were similar to our rear tone rings, I can't see why it wouldn't work.



I took some pictures of the project, which I will post as soon as I can.
 
I am planing on doing this, I have a 95 ford d-50 front end lined up to buy, I am going to re drill the spindles. I know that I need the rotors off a 79 ford to reuse my calipers. explain to me your duel piston brake calipers. And the use of the CAD axles. I know that you can get an axle to replace the CAD but I'm not sure what I am looking for.

Floyd
 
I don't believe you can use the D-50 outer knuckle or stub axles, because they are different. If you go with Ford all Dana 60 parts, you can use the ford outer knuckles and ford calipers, which are a duel piston design. I retained the inner 2 piece (CAD) axles to save money. The Dodge inner axles and Ford outer stub axles use the same U-joint and go right together. I believe the Dana 50 uses a smaller U-joint. I didn't want to waist money on the 30 spline CAD delete axles. I also didn't want to waist time and money changing the spider gears to 35 spline (still an open differential) when I plan to install a locker. You can always install a lock-right locker, that replaces the spider gears. I decided to hold off on that until I do my gear change and install a full size locker.



You can drill the spindles to match the Dodge knuckle. This is fine if you only want the free spine hubs. I would go all the way and replace the knuckles and get the better brakes.



Here are the issues you want to keep in mind. The Ford hub has a lip on it that will need to be turned down if you want to use stock Dodge wheels. Ford wheels have a slightly larger center hole. I have after market wheels, so it was not a problem.



The Ford knuckles have a slightly larger hole for the tie rod. Some have used a washer to bring the castle nut up to the cotter pin. I have Lukes Links on my tie rods, which I believe will bind under extreme articulation. I don't believe this will be a problem with stock tie rod ends. I plan to go with aftermarket heim joint steering linkages, that require drilling out the hole in the knuckle to 3/4 inch.



Older Fords used smaller studs, so your Dodge lug nuts won't work.



You want an axle out of a 92-97 Ford F350 with a Dana 60.

92-94 has 12. 56 inch rotors

95-97 has 12. 95 inch rotors

They have different knuckles, rotors, and calipers.



You will also need to reuse the Ford brake hose bolt into the caliper. Dodge uses the same size, but has different threads.



Hope this helps some.

Here is a very good link on this project.

Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Dana 60 Hub removal and converison to Ford Knuckles - Pirate4x4. Com Bulletin Board
 
JMcCoy, I presume you used the Ford Locking hubs? You can move the shift fork on the CAD to full time by reversing it's direction on the actuator rod. That slides the axle lock collar over the axle all the time so you don't have to keep the vacuum lines on there. I've done this several times on the older dodges. Then, when I broke the stinkin' collar, I had an excuse to get the new shafts and side gears!! :D
 
Yes, I used the stock Ford locking hubs and 30 spline stub axles.



I have a Posi-lok cable CAD actuator, so I already got rid of the vacuum lines. They make a perm lock that will keep it locked. It sells for around $85. 00 on Ebay. This doesn't address the main problem of having weak Dana 44 axles (that are hollow at the spline!) and the CAD collar.



New 35 spline side gears and axles will do the same thing, but much stronger. The only problem with that is that you still have an open differential in the front. This is fine for your average person that only used 4wd to pull a boat out of the water and light four wheeling. I plan to go to a 35 spline locker and axles. This will turn the 3wd into 4wd. well actually a 3. 5 wheel drive. I still have a limited slip in the rear. One project at a time though.



I hope this cleared it up some. I will try to post some pictures today.
 
You can see how the castle nut goes down too far for the cotter pin to properly do it's job. Also, the gap between the lukes-link is a little small for me. It may bind under extreme articulation. Stock joints shouldn't have a problem. I plan to upgrade the steering to heim joints in the near future.
 
The back side of the spindle with the needle bearing and seal installed.



Stub axle with seal installed.



Spindle with stub axle installed on the knuckle.
 
Hubs, bearings, rotors, and calipers installed. If you look closely, you can see the slide pins that hold the calipers in place. '95-'97 F-350s used different style calipers.
 
As you can see, the hubs do not extend past my aftermarket wheels and tires. If you have stock wheels and tires, the hubs will probably stick out a little. I think the locking hubs look better than the originals.

DSC00517.jpg
 
This is a picture of the stock passenger side axle where it meets the CAD. It only has 15 spline and its hollow. The hollow axle isn't even the weakest part of the CAD. It's almost always the collar that breaks. You can also see how the axle is necked down. Shocking, isn't it. Not a good design.
 
I was planning on swapping in a complete 02 front axle, just for the dual piston calipers. The 02 spindles will not fit on a 99?



I would have to check my research records, but I believe you are correct. You will have to swap axles or do what I did. The 02 is a stronger housing, since it doesn't have the CAD. It also allows the use of standard axles to be installed. If you swap axles, you will have improved brakes, but no locking hubs. This means your axles, gears, front drive shaft, and transfer case will all be turning. Not good for gas mileage or wear. That's how the 2001. 5-2011 are.
 
Good job! I like it! I've seen the CAD cable drives... look like they use the idle set out of an old truck to build 'em. I've done a couple with the one-piece shaft out of an '01-2, and just take the CAD out. I really like the Dyna-trac kits, and yes, Detroit's are very nice. But I've run millions of miles in three wheel drive, as you call it. As long as you keep all four on the ground, it doesn't matter in the deep sand I run it most of the time. Now, the Coyote Interceptor, welllll, that's a different story... . :D
 
Nice pics! Did you notice the front track width increasing with the new setup (i. e. , the wheels sticking further out of the wheelwells)?
 
Nice pics! Did you notice the front track width increasing with the new setup (i. e. , the wheels sticking further out of the wheelwells)?



The track with increased by approximately 1. 5 inches. Each tire sticks out an additional 3/4 inch. You have to close one eye and look real close to even notice. If you didn't know better, you probably wouldn't ever notice.



From what I have read, the Dyna-tracs and other free spin kits are real nice. The only problem I found (ther than price) is that they don't address the brakes. If I had 2000-2002, I would have installed 2010 brakes. Then either install Dyna-tracs or drill the knuckles to accept Ford hubs. I would probably Go the Ford route, just because it would be 1/4 the cost, and just as easy. It would just take one trip to the machine shop to drill the knuckes and cut the outer lip of the hub to accept stock Dodge wheels. Don't forget the spare!
 
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