Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Wife's Truck Died & Will Not Start!

[BrentL]

My wife went to start her 2001 RAM 2500 Sunday AM after a early morning temp of -15 deg. It was plugged in and the truck started fine. When she returned after 30 minutes... ... . it had died.



When I went to re-start it for her I found the following:



- Heat Grid cycle was only on a few seconds (block was warm)

- The engine turned over several times and never even tried to start



My first thought was after the cold night there MUST be some gelled fuel that has gotten into the filter.

We pulled out the tractor and towed the truck through the snow and into the shop.

Did the following:



- Tried to start the truck once it had sit in the shop about 30 munutes... ... . it started and ran rough for about 20 sec and died.

- Turned the heat in the shop up to full throttle and left the temp at around 60 deg for more than 12 hours.

- replaced the filter & cleaned the housing.

- Checked the flow of the supply pump. (Filled the housing very quick)

- Confirmed fuel is coming into the injector pump

- Removed the Edge Box... ... tried to start... ... put it back on



After this... still not luck in the truck even attempting to start. When I get back home this weekend I plan to check the fuel on the injector side of the pump... ... then need some guidance on what to look at next.



Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Bob Wagner]

cycle the key 3 times and check for codes

 

[BILLVO]

If it did gel you are on the right track. crack the injector lines and bleed it out. Sounds like you got it going in right direction.

 

[Cummins724]

How much fuel pressure are you getting while it is running?

 

[BrentL]

Thanks Guys. When I get back home Fri/Sat I'll start with bleeding the lines to the injectors (and keep my fingers crossed). Then check the Codes and Pressure if that doesn't do the trick.



Thanks again for the support!

 

[lklauder]

shutoff solenoid

You might check the shutoff solenoid also.

 

[BrentL]

I Cracked the injector line at the head on #1 and no fuel... ... ... so I backed the nut all the way off where I could see the flare in the line..... and still no fuel.

The battery is almost dead, so put it on charge and thought I would try breaking all the lines loose and give it another shot in the morning.



I just went and checked the codes and they are: 1693 and 0216. I have read the 0216 is not good. Is there any point in me continuing to bleed this thing out? Or is the pump shot again? This one has only been on about 30K.

 

[Cummins724]

It sounds like you are to late... . the lp went bad & the vp44 burnt up... . sorry. Do you have a warranty on the vp44?

 

[J.Keith]

You willl probably be able to get it running by bleeding the injectors.

I've run one of my trucks for over 40k miles with a VP that was setting a p0216 code. It sounds to me like it gelled on you and just needs to be bled out to run again.

The other thing to make sure and check is the fuel pressure at the VP. As long as it's over 10 psi at WOT you're ok.

I'd crack the #1,3 and 4 injector lines and crank till you're getting good fuel outta those. tighten them up and you'll be good to go!



Good luck!

 

[BrentL]

Where's a good place to pick up a test gauge? They only fuel pressure gauge I have is mounted on the 12V. I've looked around a little and thought I might find a test gauge package on-line somewhere..... but no luck yet.

 

[Bob Wagner]

http://sourceautomotive.biz in stock and ready to ship

 

[BrentL]

Checked the LP pressure at the VP44... ... ... since I didn't have a gauge on hand

I just figured that since it shot a stream about 6 to 8 feet in front of the truck the LP was still doing it's part.

Now on a healthy battery, I opened up the lines at #1, 3 & 4 as suggested. After a couple cranks of about 10 secs each fuel was apparent on #3. A couple more cranks to flush all the air, locked the lines tight ... and up it's and running. Oo.

I think it was the highlight of the day for my Wife and I both. (Now I can have my truck back too)



I've had my 12V gel a couple times but it always seemed to start very easy after it warmed up a bit. I think the most effort might have been to pump the primer button until it started openening the by-pass valve... ... . but I think in some cases maybe not even that much to get it cranked.



Any way... . just want to thank everyone again for all your support in getting the boss back on the road!