Here's an overview-review sort of thingy.
You get 5 fine custom steel adapters, one tapped for gauge. 4 AN-8 fittings, 3 90's, 1 straight. 1 push-lok fitting. 2 lengths of hose, braided SS and push-lok.
Yes it is a KIT, you have to measure/cut to fit. I cut the SS with a cut-off wheel in a die-grinder and the plastic innards with my pocket knife. You'll also need a short 7/8 inch wrench-those aren't in every toolbox. I cut one.
The adapters go where the banjos come out, the AN fittings attach to these. The push-lok goes on the inlet of the LP. The push-lok slips over the factory metal line and is secured with hose clamp (not-included). Then lube and push onto barb fitting at LP. Decide for yourself how to use the 90's. I used them first and the straight fitting last-at the VP--to avoid interference with the PS filler.
I also had to improvise a fitting for my gauge as I had been using the test shraeder with the core removed. Therefore I had no MALE connector. I found that the old OEM boost fitting works just fine, but you have to remove the return line for installation clearance.
Also be very careful with crud once you get post-filter. I cleaned and blew out the fittings and lines twice. Be careful pushing the inner line into the bushings, if you get it crooked or too far, you'll have a hard time getting it onto the fitting.
One or two more things. To avoid the Diesel Shower. First loosen the filler cap (I didn't and pressurized my tank DOH!) then use compressed air to blow the fuel back into the tank when you pull the factory quick-fitting. Use a sharp instrument to cut factory line away from the metal--no need to cut the metal line. Also use something -like larger fuel line- to protect anything the SS line touches or it (the touched thing) will become seriously abraded very quickly.
Performance: you BETCHA!
I was easily pulling the fuel pressure to ZERO on levels 4 and 5 with DD3's. Now I have to try REAL hard to get below 8 psi, and it won't go much below 8 then and that's for a very short time.
Now to address my air supply!
You get 5 fine custom steel adapters, one tapped for gauge. 4 AN-8 fittings, 3 90's, 1 straight. 1 push-lok fitting. 2 lengths of hose, braided SS and push-lok.
Yes it is a KIT, you have to measure/cut to fit. I cut the SS with a cut-off wheel in a die-grinder and the plastic innards with my pocket knife. You'll also need a short 7/8 inch wrench-those aren't in every toolbox. I cut one.
The adapters go where the banjos come out, the AN fittings attach to these. The push-lok goes on the inlet of the LP. The push-lok slips over the factory metal line and is secured with hose clamp (not-included). Then lube and push onto barb fitting at LP. Decide for yourself how to use the 90's. I used them first and the straight fitting last-at the VP--to avoid interference with the PS filler.
I also had to improvise a fitting for my gauge as I had been using the test shraeder with the core removed. Therefore I had no MALE connector. I found that the old OEM boost fitting works just fine, but you have to remove the return line for installation clearance.
Also be very careful with crud once you get post-filter. I cleaned and blew out the fittings and lines twice. Be careful pushing the inner line into the bushings, if you get it crooked or too far, you'll have a hard time getting it onto the fitting.
One or two more things. To avoid the Diesel Shower. First loosen the filler cap (I didn't and pressurized my tank DOH!) then use compressed air to blow the fuel back into the tank when you pull the factory quick-fitting. Use a sharp instrument to cut factory line away from the metal--no need to cut the metal line. Also use something -like larger fuel line- to protect anything the SS line touches or it (the touched thing) will become seriously abraded very quickly.
Performance: you BETCHA!
I was easily pulling the fuel pressure to ZERO on levels 4 and 5 with DD3's. Now I have to try REAL hard to get below 8 psi, and it won't go much below 8 then and that's for a very short time.
Now to address my air supply!
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