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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Will a 24 valver run OK with 1-5psi fuel pressure?

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I just finished installing a 16 psi Westach fuel pressure gauge on my bone stock fuel system, 112K on original lift pump. Truck has always run great. I have read that 16psi is desired at idle and around 10psi on WOT. I drilled and tapped the banjo bolt on the bottom of the fuel filter housing, ran it through an 18" grease whip to the sender, no leaks. Bled the system by removing the valve in the banjo at the VP44 and cycling once. LOTS of fuel came out! Put the valve back in and started the truck after maybe 8 seconds cranking and read 6psi at idle:--) My filter needed to be changed real soon so I did, now I get 5psi at idle and ONE psi WOT:eek: First, this is BAD, right? Second, did I screw up something? It was a very simple hookup. Will air in the grease whip cause a very(?) low reading? Oh, the lift pump now sounds very sickly. It used to have a very solid "moan" when I cycled the starter. Now, (just tonight) it sounds inconsistent and not nearly as solid as it did. Did I kill it by "priming" the way that I did? I "happened" to have bought a spare lift pump last Friday, I'm guessing that I need a new one for whatever reason. . I have not driven the truck but it idles fine and goes to 3400rpm if I stand on the pedal. . Any and all input welcomed. Thanks.
 
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You did not hurt the lift pump at all. Your install sounds fine.



I would drive it like that, but get another lift pump on as soon as you have the time. It is NOT life and death. Get one, put it on when you have an hour to spare and call it good. My original lift pump went 120K. New one is on, hope it lasts half that long... .....
 
RAF2000

I have a 2002 and just installed the same gauge and hook up you did, and my pressures are 15 @idle and 8-9 @WOT.



BTW. . my truck only has 27K on it!



Sounds like you need a new LP...



Thank God for fuel pressure gauges! Every 24 Valve owner needs at least one of them! :D
 
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raf2000,

Count yourself amongst the lucky to have caught your bad lift pump before your injection pump died from overwork.

Change the pump and be on your way.

For the comparison: my 2001 has 19,000 and the original pump is giving a solid 16 psi @idle, 12 @ highway cruise (2000 rpm), and drags down to 8 @ WOT.
 
My 2002 has 14-15 at idle and falls to 7-8 at WOT.



I had a 2000 and I discovered I had a bad lift pump when I changed the fuel filter, did the bump the starter thing to purge the air and then could not get it started.



From reading this site, I knew what was wrong so I poured clean diesel fuel in the fuel filter canister to fill it up and then the injection pump was able to suck enough fuel to start.



I don't know how long I had a bad lift pump but a couple of times the day before the fuel filter change the Cummins coughed while pulling my 5th wheel up mountains in Colorado. I guess the injection pump could not suck that volume of fuel from the tank going up hill.



I had hoped I just had a dirty fuel filter. That is why I was changing the filter.



And that is the reason I have a fuel pressure guage in my 2002.



I limped my 2000 into Pueblo Dodge in Colorado and they had me going again in a couple of hours under warranty. Great folks. When they found out I was traveling and not local they took my truck into their shop, fixed me up and put me back on the road.



Bobby
 
WOW! Changed the lift pump, 15+ psi. Happy camper. Talk about timing. I just "figured" from spending time on TDR that it might be getting to be that time. Wonder how long I have been running under 1psi @ WOT? This gauge is as important as an EGT I would say. So, you guys that "think" everything is OK, might at least want to test the pressure at idle if not install the FP gauge. . Oh, my Darin brace came in today too, so happy about the FP that I will go install it in the rain:D
 
No, You really shouldn't have to remove the starter to access the lift pump, although that's what the manual says to do. I just had a similiar problem with my fuel filter, and after not being able to start the truck again, I realized that my lift pump was shot. The easiest thing to do is to remove the fuel filter from the engine block and then access the lift pump while standing near the fender well(you might need to stand on something). From above, it is easiest to pull all of the hoses off the pump but leave the banjo bolts still on the pump. then remove the pump and when it is out of the truck, then remove the banjo bolts and the washers and reposition them on the new pump. Then just put the pump back, and watch the magic.
 
It would really be easier to do from below without the starter in. As usual, I never read directions. Did it without removing anything! It was less than fun. Not too bad, just a little rough on the wrists and you need to put a towel or something over the driver side battery. The worst part was getting the intake side banjo on. I dropped the washer 3 times and spent a total of almost an hour finding it three times. Starter looked like a pain, probably easier to remove filter housing as stated in the post before this one. I was worried about stressing the fuel line going to the VP44 so I left everything in place. I noticed you get an extra psi when everything gets hot, 15psi idle cold, 16 hot. About 9. 5psi WOT. MUCH better than 6 at idle and 0. 5psi WOT. Hope I didn't add any extra wear on the VP44.
 
You can also kneel on the front bumper and be able to reach, or you can carefully sit on the core support, be careful of the fan shroud though. It usually takes me about 10 15 minutes to r/r a lp from the top. I would not even consider taking one off from the bottom.
 
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