Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Will anyone @ TiM have a KDP Jig?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Relocating Fuel Return Line

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) rear differential noise?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Just got a new to me truck, and I need to get the KDP taken care.



Just wondering if anyone that will be at Thunder In Muncie next Saturday will have a KDP Jig with them?
 
Just do it!

Hey Mark, just set aside about 2-3 hours and pull the front cover. You have tools right?? Those and a few hours and you won't have to worry about the KDP 'doing it's thing' on the way to Muncie.



When I ought my '98 I had to drive it about 500 miles to get it home, and I thought about that 'D*&&^%% Pin ' all the way home. The first thing I did was to pull it in the shop and get the front cover off and drive the pin back in it's hole and peen it in place. It was out over 1/8"! [98 12v 95K ]



You can also check the torque on the other various bolts inside the cover while you are in there. I have found a lot of loose bolts [some just finger tight] when inside the cover.



I'd just do it and get it over with!



Take care Greg L The Noise Nazi
 
Re: Just do it!

Originally posted by Lsfarm

Hey Mark, just set aside about 2-3 hours and pull the front cover. You have tools right?? Those and a few hours and you won't have to worry about the KDP 'doing it's thing' on the way to Muncie.




Greg do I need any special tools to remove the fan? I woud LOVE to get the KDP killed before heading to TiM, but I have never been that far into my motor by myself. :( :eek:



Could you get me those TQ specs also?
 
Last edited:
I just killed mine. No big deal. Score a couple of pallets to stand on and it makes the job real easy. I didn't have a wrench to remove the fan so I used the drift punch method. Kinda dinged the wrench flat on fan nut but nothing to write home about. All the 10mm bolt heads under the cover get 18 ftlbs and damper bolts get 92 ftlbs. I even reused my cover gasket as it is made of rubber and was in great shape. Worst part of the whole show was that %&*@#$ radiator drain plug !!

I had never functioned the little mother so did'nt know what made it tick. Long story short -- I had to change anti freeze soaked rompers and go to town for o-rings. I would not even consider the jig method as some of my bolts were not tight and you need to see the front of your engine naked any way!! I got the TST kit --A little over priced but it had the big dummy step by step guide for newbies. I replaced my tracking bar at the same time. What a big differance that made. I don't fear ruts anymore!

Honestly to any one who has NOT killed a KDP the job is worse in your head than in actuality, just get to it and you will be glad you did.
 
Good advice

Hi Mark, Wasilla Rod gave good advice.

The radiator drain is on the drivers side lower inside corner of the radiator, using a pair of pliers, grab the flat tab of the drain and turn counter clockwise while pulling out on the tab. The plug will rotate and come out at the same time, it only backs out 1 or 1 1/2 turns. Catch the antifreeze to keep your pets from getting into it. It is poison to pets. Just drain about a gallon or two, to drop the coolant level below the top radiator hose, so that when you remove the hose you don't make a mess. Remove thw upper hose to get it out of the way of the fan shroud and fan.



Just use a long punch or chisel to knock on the fan nut to loosen and afterwards retighten the fan nut. The fan nut threads are left hand threads!! So you have to hit the nut in the direction you would to tighten a normal thread. Then carefully spin the whole fan assembly off. set the fan in the bottom of the fan shroud



Remove the washer bottle, and the four 10mm bolts holding the shroud to the radiator, and remove the fan and shroud together. It helps to have an extra set of hands to do this. You can have the shroud loose and ready to remove before the fan if you want. You can shove the shroud back toward the engine and pull the fan out the gap between the shroud and radiator, just be careful and don't mess up the radiator fins.



Then just start taking the items off that are in the way of the front cover. The crank damper bolts will come loose with a long ratchet or breaker bar, just kind of 'jerk the bar' they will come off. They are 15mm. Tighten the same way.



Plan on reusing the gasket and seal, they rarely must be replaced if you are carefull and patient when removing the cover.



I wish you were nearby, so I could help. These are 'home workshop' methods, I use an air chisel with a blunt drift for the fan, and have a barring tool to hold the engine for the damper bolts, but the above directions work fine.



Read all te FAQ's about the KDP, then jump in and get your hands dirty!!



Hope this helps, Greg L
 
I'll bring my KDP jig... if someone else provides the cordless drill... and some shop air.



(I shouldn't have said that... now I'll never get any 12oz curls done @ TiM '04... :-laf )



Matt
 
Originally posted by HoleshotHolset





(I shouldn't have said that... now I'll never get any 12oz curls done @ TiM '04... :-laf )



Matt



I'll help ya Matt, with both... . the KDP if needed and the curls. Moral support is always good! :D



Josh
 
I just went in and replaced the front seal on my truck. I did not drain the radiator on the bottom. I just squeezed the hose and let the bottle fill. When I did remove the hose I had minimal fluid loss. I used a large pair of channel lock pliers to remove the fan bolt. While in there I looked at the KDP, the tab had not moved. It is an easy job to do. Takes about 2-3 hours to complete the job. I went with the tab version because *I* felt the tab held the pin in place after tappin it in, and the jig held the pin in place where ever it was. I also di not want to drill my block.
 
Thanks Josh. I really need to jig my '98... and swap out my leaky front seal...



JSmith said: "I also did not want to drill my block. "



You're not drilling your block... you drill the front gearcase with the CPFF KDP jig.



Matt
 
Well I emailed the former owner right before I started this thread the other day, and he finally got back to me.



Seems he never "got around" to the KDP, but he had a tab in the truck. In fact he left it in there and forgot to tell me about it. Just found it and here's a pic.
 
Originally posted by HoleshotHolset

I'll bring my KDP jig... if someone else provides the cordless drill... and some shop air.



(I shouldn't have said that... now I'll never get any 12oz curls done @ TiM '04... :-laf )



Matt



Matt I can supply the cordless drill if you would be willing to help me JIG mine as a temp. fix. I'll tab it later on when I have a day or two to work on it. Now the shop air I can't provide :confused:
 
I'll help you get jiggy with it...



I'm not all that worried about the shop air... the few chips that may go into the gearcase are a lot less harmless than the dowel pin. It would be nice if we had air, though...



Maybe we can find someone with on-board air...



Matt
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top