Will not start: Shows codes 0480 and 0628... is this normal or to be expected?

[MillerR]

My 03 died on the street the other day. Would start, but would not stay running. Did this about 5 times and now will not start at all. Ignition switch trick shows codes 0480 (cooling fan relay) and 0628 (fuel pump relay). Is it normal for these to show together? It seems likely to be fuel related due to the symptoms, but I'm not sure how the cooling fan would play into it...? Any help? I'm at 189,000 miles on stock fuel pump. 5.9 HO, 6sp Manual, 2500 4x4, Edge Juice w/ Attitude, Hi-Flow Air cleaner w/ baffle delete on the intake tube. All else pretty much stock... I need my truck back! If it is the fuel pump, what's the best way to go? FASS, Glacier Walbro, others??? Thanks for your inputs...

 

[MarkEkberg]

Your on the fuel pump on the back of the engine? If so, it should have died long ago. I think most people have changed to the intank setup. But there are easier replacements out there.

I have read the fan clutch can create a no start. If you unplug the harness at the bottom of the rad and it fires you know where the trouble is.

You probably have two problems. Gotta clear codes and deal with one at a time.

 

[MillerR]

Thank you Mark. Yes, I'm on the stock fuel pump. I just replaced (believe it or not) the stock batteries two weeks ago. So, is the stock set-up as follows... Injection pump on the side of the motor, next to the fuel filter and a separate "lift" pump on the back of the motor? If so, the replacement would remove the one on the back of the motor and add the one at the tank? Also, what is the liklihood that the injection pump is now toast as well? I've heard the injection pump will work by itself for a while, but will eventually die, which may be the case with mine...? Thoughts? Thank you again.

 

[MarkEkberg]

Thank you Mark. Yes, I'm on the stock fuel pump. I just replaced (believe it or not) the stock batteries two weeks ago. So, is the stock set-up as follows... Injection pump on the side of the motor, next to the fuel filter and a separate "lift" pump on the back of the motor? If so, the replacement would remove the one on the back of the motor and add the one at the tank? Also, what is the liklihood that the injection pump is now toast as well? I've heard the injection pump will work by itself for a while, but will eventually die, which may be the case with mine...? Thoughts? Thank you again.

I would not suspect your inj pump is toast. For the ease of things I would just replace the stock lift pump unit with a aftermarket one.

Surprised someone else with a much more knowledge than I has not chimed in. Maybe my advice is sound? I am still learning like you. Even have my own no start thread.

 

[p-Bar]

Can you verify with the new lift pump that you have fuel pressure? With that many miles you may need injectors. You also need to check cranking pressure on the high pressure side if it's too low it won't start. Take the Edge out of the loop.

 

[MillerR]

Can you verify with the new lift pump that you have fuel pressure? With that many miles you may need injectors. You also need to check cranking pressure on the high pressure side if it's too low it won't start. Take the Edge out of the loop.

I've heard that term before "cranking pressure", Can you elaborate on what exactly that is? Is it related to pump pressure? How do you check it? I don't have a new pump yet, this just happened a couple days ago and I haven't had time to address it, other than asking questions and looking up codes.

Thank you,

Trey

 

[PWong]

Ignition switch trick shows codes 0480 (cooling fan relay) and 0628 (fuel pump relay). Is it normal for these to show together? It seems likely to be fuel related due to the symptoms,

I would check the fuel pump relay or swap a relay first.
Then verify 12V power and ground at the pump before replace the pump.

 

[p-Bar]

Agree with PWONG . Your rail pressure has to be a minimum of 7k psi at cranking for the ecu to start the truck . Does your Edge monitor rail pressure? If you can't check voltage at the pump open the drain for the water seperator then shut it then turn on key and listen for lift pump .

 

[MillerR]

Agree with PWONG . Your rail pressure has to be a minimum of 7k psi at cranking for the ecu to start the truck . Does your Edge monitor rail pressure? If you can't check voltage at the pump open the drain for the water seperator then shut it then turn on key and listen for lift pump .

Need to correct code readouts:
0480 is "Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit/Open (Low Speed Fan Relay)"
0628 is "Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Low, or Fuel Lift Pump Control Circuit Low"
After reading your comments and looking at these again, I have a little hope that this may be electrical and not a true mechanical failure. That being said, it's probably time for the fuel pump upgrade huh? When I turn the key on, I do hear a clicking up by the pump. Further thoughts or advice please...?

 

[PWong]

I have a little hope that this may be electrical and not a true mechanical failure. That being said, it's probably time for the fuel pump upgrade huh? When I turn the key on, I do hear a clicking up by the pump. Further thoughts or advice please...?

I would hope that it's the relay or the pump issue and NOT the ECM failed to activate the relay.

 

[p-Bar]

I would hope that it's the relay or the pump issue and NOT the ECM failed to activate the relay.

Well if he's hearing clicking that is the fuel pump. I think you need to be methodical about this and just don't throw a bunch of parts at it as that can be costly . Do some research online entering all your codes in search engine you will be directed to other forums . Good luck keep us posted

 

[MillerR]

Agree with PWONG . Your rail pressure has to be a minimum of 7k psi at cranking for the ecu to start the truck . Does your Edge monitor rail pressure? If you can't check voltage at the pump open the drain for the water seperator then shut it then turn on key and listen for lift pump .

I'm seeing 7.99V at the wiring plug that connects to the lift pump. Can anyone confirm this should be 12V? Any ideas from here? I don't see a fuel pump relay in the fuse Relay box...???

 

[p-Bar]

can you hot wire a 12 volt source off the battery? be sure the other side is disconnected

 

[MillerR]

can you hot wire a 12 volt source off the battery? be sure the other side is disconnected

By hot-wire, you mean just run a jumper? And then what, apply it to the pump? This would be to see if the pump is working, right? This wouldn't address the fact that the wiring is only giving 7.99V to the pump. I'm reluctant to do that without knowing the pump is supposed to see 12V. This 7.99V condition might explain the "Circuit Low" code definitions...?

Nevermind. I just realized the pump only comes on for ~2 seconds when the key is turned on. If you engage the starter and let-off, it will stay on for ~25 seconds... During these time-out periods, I was reading 12V at the pump connector. When wiring is plugged in and the same procedure is done, I can't hear anything from the pump even while using a stethescope. I'm pretty confident the pump is bad. So... Now, stock Carter replacement through Genos for $99.00 or upgrade to a FASS pump? Opinions please... Past experience? Pros and Cons? Simplicity of the conversion? I'm leaning a little towards the FASS approach. Thank you for all your inputs... Trey

 

[K5IP]

MilerR
My carter replacement from Geno's has been great. It is inexpensive, and incorporates a new brushless design. Brush problems were the reason most of the originals died at around 70K.
K5IP/Roger

 

[MillerR]

MilerR
My carter replacement from Geno's has been great. It is inexpensive, and incorporates a new brushless design. Brush problems were the reason most of the originals died at around 70K.
K5IP/Roger

KSIP: Thank you for your input. I've decided to go with the FASS, even though it's 5-6 times the initial cost. I have an Edge Juice module that allows for above stock HPs, so I'm hoping to alleviate any short-comings there. The FASS system is supposed to help improve fuel economy and system longevity with their added supply and included filtering system. I thought about being able to buy one Carter for the repair and another for a back-up and still being ~$400.00 less invested, but the added benefits helped push me over the fence. It would be nice to have parallel systems that you could switch back and forth from in emergency situations...

 

[MillerR]

***Update*** Just installed the FASS Titanium system. Took me ~5 hours start to finish. I made my own bracket for mounting the relay on the flange just under the cabin filter. I'll try to post some pictures. Took a little more priming than I was expecting, but it finally fired up and ran smooth. Trying to decide what exactly to do with the OEM fuel line... Leave in place and cap, or remove??? Haven't taken it out on the road yet (wanting to finalize things with the OEM line first). Overall... I'm happy with the decision to go with FASS.

 

[MillerR]

Sorry for the duplication...

 

[MillerR]

***Follow-up*** Truck just died, same symptoms as before. I have a little less than 1/4 tank of fuel. Did I read something about an issue with keeping fuel flowing without a draw tube when you get below 1/4 tank???

 

[cerberusiam]

The draw straws are just a problem waiting to happen, you should have used a modified canister instead to alleviate the problem. Check and make sure you have pressurea t the CP-3 before tearing into too much.