2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission window regulator roller fix!

[nuv22]

guys i was wondering if anyone had an idea of where i could purchase a new one of these. it is from the bar that pulls the window up and down on the drivers side door. as you can see it broke and now the window does not like to go down without help since its crooked. any info would be great !! here is what it looks like





Update:I was able to fix the part please read below!

also I decided to change the title so it will be easier for people to find when they do a search in the forums.

 

[MKinner]

I would try Napa. They are pretty good at finding parts like that. Good Luck.

 

[widewheel]

I would go to Dodge and see if it can be bought or if it is a part of an assembly. There is always a salvage yard. If it is the same from side to side you could pull one out of a passanger side door and it would probably be in good shape since that window is used less.

 

[nuv22]

yeah im afraid of it being an assembly. i will try napa but what do i call it? i will also try the junkyard i guess 98. 5 to 03 trucks should have the same window assembly right? i looked online and it looks like its a complete assembly window motor and all.

 

[Bob4x4]

The roller is not available from Dodge,it would come with the window regulator. Try a big glass shop they may have an aftermarket piece





Bob

 

[SRath]

I believe that piece rotates on a rivet? if so, it the same piece I managed to break when I converted to power windows and locks.



Just get on ebay and find a cheap regulator assembly and either replace the entire regulator or cannibalize the roller off it.



I took the one off my old regulator and rewelded the rivet onto the new one.

 

[nuv22]

yes it does rotate on that little stud/rivet. looked up the assembly and dorman makes them here is the part number just in case anyone needs it it is 741-753 (left driver side) the whole thing is around 80$ at the auto parts store. do you guys think i can get just an assembly on ebay with no motor and swap my motor on to it? i was reading on the repair manual about it and in bold letters there is a warning about not removing the motor because the lift arm is under tension from the counterbalance spring and you could get a boo boo lol i guess if all else fails i can weld it like srath said.

 

[nuv22]

i wonder if one of these would work. its a plastic track guide for a gm but its only 5 bux!

 

[JGK]

It seems to me that some years ago someone else on this forum had this part break. As I remember, he managed to find a suitable replacement roller at a cabinet parts supply, or perhaps it was a part for bifold or bypass closet doors. It even had roller bearings. He found a small machine screw and nut that fit and drilled out where the rivet was and put the new piece on and Locktite'd it in place. I think it worked so well he went ahead and replaced the other side even though it wasn't broken.



Might consider that option.



-Jay

 

[nuv22]

yeah i looked at the other threads since you mentioned it and called about 10 glass shops and no one has anything close they are either too big or they mount differently. i wish i had more info on where the other guys got theirs. auto glass shops around here are a bunch of turds anyway. :-laf



thanks for the link info

 

[nuv22]

this is as close as i could find by just looking at the picture



https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-...=&start=&vfrom=&prev=&vnext=&category_list=:0

 

[Hammer]

Door parts will be in this order for your door parts...



1994-1997 Ram 1500/2500/3500

1998-2002 Ram 1500/2500/3500



For you interior parts.



The only way you can get that part is to buy the entire regulator assembly. However,if you find a salvage yard with a wrecked truck you may be able to get one out of a bad door. I looked today for you in my buddies yard and he only had 1 smashed door and there was no way to get it open to get the parts.

 

[nuv22]

ok so i found a very close fit to the roller. i went to the local hardware store and picked up the Tub and Shower roller. First there is a lip at the end of the metal rail that the rollers slide on. i used a pair of pliers to open it up. this allowed me to slide the new roller in and out. Then i drilled out the metal stud. Make sure you protect the glass with a towel or cardboard in case the drill bit slips. Then i sanded the new roller down a bit until the fit was right then slid it in place with the nut facing towards me and used locktite to make sure the screw would not come loose. Tightened up the screw and it works great!Oo. here is what they look like. Also i purchased the Dorman part number 74444 just in case the other roller would not work so that one might also work for you. I hope this helps everyone else.



Hammer thanks for the info and for looking at that stuff for me.

 

[hilda]

ok so i found a very close fit to the roller. i went to the local hardware store and picked up the Tub and Shower roller. First there is a lip at the end of the metal rail that the rollers slide on. i used a pair of pliers to open it up. this allowed me to slide the new roller in and out. Then i drilled out the metal stud. Make sure you protect the glass with a towel or cardboard in case the drill bit slips. Then i sanded the new roller down a bit until the fit was right then slid it in place with the nut facing towards me and used locktite to make sure the screw would not come loose. Tightened up the screw and it works great!Oo. here is what they look like. Also i purchased the Dorman part number 74444 just in case the other roller would not work so that one might also work for you. I hope this helps everyone else.



Hammer thanks for the info and for looking at that stuff for me.

I used this fix on the old truck, worked great. Dealer wanted $200 I spent $1. 00 at Home Depot.



Jim

 

[nuv22]

i also have the whole driver side regulator with no motor if anyone needs one shoot me a pm. i got it at the junk yard for 25 bux

 

[randial]

I just had my rollers break & wanted to ask if your cheap fix is still working for you?

 

[john_goose]

I used this two times and they last. First door I made them, sanding didn't work well I used a file, second door Home Depot was out and I found them already made on ebay.

 

[TFlewitt]

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to leave a note for anyone else that comes along looking for assistance. I had one nylon roller break on the driver's side, dropping the window. Priced the alternatives - found regulators on ebay, etc., for $35, etc. Instead of throwing the whole part away though, I found a fix from someone else (who is ingenious - these forums are worth their weight in gold!) that only costs $1 per roller.

You can use a 5/8" roller (https://www.google.com/search?q=5/8"+tub+and+shower+roller&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8), and if you do, the following is not necessary. The HomeDepot I went to didn't have a 5/8" roller, so I used a 3/4" tub & shower roller. I reduced the size slightly on a bench grinder to .675" from .750". Spread the regulator window channel the roller rides in, very very slightly (perhaps .020" or so) using a spacer (piece of 1/4" x 2" x 6" long steel, and a flat prybar, working it along the entire length of the channel). I replaced both stock rollers because I found the other one was already broken in one place.

The window work like new or better, plus, if the nylon roller ever breaks like the stock one did, there is a larger washer on the outside of these tub rollers that wouldn't allow the roller to drop out of the regulator channel and drop the window. I think though, that these rollers will last at least as long as the stock ones - another 17 years! Thank you to ingenious people who post their knowledge to help others like me!