Winter warmup questions

[IRoss]

I'd like to try to get the old tractor to warm up a little quicker this year... . i've pulled two big C part# off the archives, 3802273 and 3802968, but I couldn't figure which one of these has the lower opening temp... even in the summer the only time my current (fairly new)190napa unit hits the first hash mark on the stocker is 5th gear on a long hill... . and idling for extended periods with the a/c on. . I'm not sure if it is stuck open so much as my fairly new fan clutch seems to be turning most of the time as well. . Ever since it was installed(by dodge, 1 year ago) it hasn't turned freely. . Is it normal for these things to have a break-in period?... does anybody else have experience with removing their fan for the winter?

Also, I've been looking for some nice billet grill block-offs for the first gen to replace the lowly piece of cardboard, does anybody know where to find some nice kits?

thanx for the input

ian

 

[Shadrach]

P/n 3802273 supercedes to 3802968. They are both 83*C or about 180*F. A winter front helps but if you are pulling a heavy load you need to leave an opening to keep the air flowing to the CAC. This may sound simple to another Canadian, but for the benefit of others, plug it in. Avoid idling in cold weather as it will never warm up doing this. If a plug in is not readily available use a diesel fired engine heater such as an Espar. They are great. I don't recommend removing the fan. Although I have seen people do it in cold weather sure enough the weather will warm up a bit and you will need air. Some guys say to turn off the engine if you get stuck in traffic but try it sometime and watch what happens to the temp gauge when you restart it . It goes up before it comes down because the "hot" coolant is just sitting there and not circulating. Shadrach

 

[IRoss]

realistically, how much airflow does the I/C need through it in the winter if the incoming air is -10C or so... . a lot of the time in the winter my truck is parked on logging roads all day and sometimes even overnight, i would really like to find some way to help it (and me)warm up a bit quicker... . I dont pull anything more than a loaded snowmobile trailer in the winter <35000llbs and stop and go traffic is non-existant where I live... do you think that Tstat# is the best or should I look for another one... .

 

[dpuckett]

I'd say either get some thick cardboard or get an exhuast brake. The brake will put enough load on the engine to keep it warm-ish. I dont think you can get a hotter t-stat. I have run winter time with no fan in Colorado, with no overheating issues. My fan almost never comes on, and the temp gauge never goes over the second hash mark (just left of center).



Daniel

 

[TBartlett1]

I live in Northeast and I block approx 50% of my radiator during the cold months and I also use a block heater which is on a timer and set to turn on approx 2 hrs before I need to roll. After I start it I use my hand throttle on my 1990 and run at a high idle after I get oil pressure. if you don't have a hand throttle use a telescoping windsheild scrapper or a length of wood cut so you can prop it against the seat. if you have electric seats use that adjustment to set the throttle. I've done this with my CTD since 1990.

When I get in the truck she's warm, defrosted and ready to roll.

 

[dpuckett]

THIS will start a heated debate, but I dont care

Keep in mind that too much idling (I consider 1300rpm in the driveway idling, due to the fact little heat is built up, no load on engine) can cause more harm than good- cylinder washdown and injectors coking are the major concerns.



Daniel

 

[JLEONARD]

I also use the 2 hour block heater cycle then I just start and go. Don't know what thermostat I have but I get heat in a few minutes and in 5 I'm turning it down because it's blasting me out of the cab.

 

[NNovak]

read the thread as this will be my first winter as well with my truck.

I am looking at the Winter Kit that the local Mopar dealer can get. $110 US. Comes with a radiator cover and two heated battery blankets. The cover is cool as it isn't a grill cover, it actually just covers the radiator so you don't have to put any mounts or snaps on your grill.



any one use this set up?



Also I have seen a few threads where other say to use the decor grill inserts for winter as well as wind diflection to help with aero dynamics. Anyone have the part number for these, I have not been able to find the inserts.



Thx

nate

 

[FOXY005]

I have the Mopar Winter Front and do think it helps it warm up quicker in cold weather. Mine has 4 triangular flaps that can be opened or closed with velcro strips sewn on the flaps.



I also close the flaps when I plug in, trying to keep the wind out maybe it helps maybe it dosen't but just something I do.



If the installation instructions still tell you to fasten the top first, it is easier to tuck the top flaps into position and fasten the bottom with the "S" hooks

then adjust and fasten the top.



Very fast installation and removal 5 minutes each after you have done it once.



The first time I did it I followed the instructions so it took a little longer, hence the installation tip above.

 

[Greenleaf]

If you do idle the engine, I believe you are supposed to idle at 1200/1300 to keep the engine internal temps up to prevent washdown.



Fact, my buses here have a sticker that says so.



I use my block heater even when it's warm as I have to drive only 3 miles and it's up a long hill to the shop. Tough on a cold engine to drive it like that. The heat also clears off the condensation on the glass so I can see where I be going.

 

[JFaughn]

I take my fan off every yr , just find a place to stash in truck in case of a warm day [ 70*f ] is the only time it got warm , I block the rad with cardboard about 80% , battery blankets but almost never plug in [ do see temps as cold as I used to -63*F in about 1975 on Mississippi , St. Paul MN ]
plug in but I think that closer to 3-4 hrs , if it going to get below 10 * I through an old packing / moving blanket over eng while plugged in , also if a cold night I have a plug in magnetic heater I will put on trans pan .
I see better millage if warm eng , I do not stop plugging in till about 40*F .

 

[tugboatphil]

Daniel, I used to operate a large landing craft in the Navy. Once the ramp was on the beach, we might be there pushing sand for up to an hour or more. Engineers used to tell me to not keep the RPMs in one range for too long. The adjustment didn't have to be extreme, but to go up and down a few hundred during the lull in action. I never asked why, but it is probably for the reasons you cited.

 

[Don Tanklage]

Keep in mind that too much idling (I consider 1300rpm in the driveway idling, due to the fact little heat is built up, no load on engine) can cause more harm than good- cylinder washdown and injectors coking are the major concerns.



Daniel

what do you think about using an ex brake to warm the engine?

 

[dpuckett]

An exhaust brake is actually good, as it puts a load on the engine (not much, but enough to create heat, and that's all that counts), so it isnt idling, per se. Lots of people use them for winter warmup. Between the warm up (<2min, I have heard, to hot heat), and extra braking capacity, it is on the "to-do" list. I guess it would explain why I have seen them on more than a few autos.



DP

 

[rumblefish]

I wanted a brake for my dually after experiencing one on my dad's old 97. Never got around to it, then found my crew which already had one. I can't think of anything right now that I would give it up for.

 

[Don Tanklage]

I can't think of anything right now that I would give it up for.

yea, i really like having a brake...



cant wait for my new 4" prxb to show up!