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Winterizing the Travel Trailer

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Trailer Tires

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It is getting to be that time of year and this is the first year of owning my Trailer.



I have a 2007 Keystone Springdale and would like to get through the winter without any problems.



I am going to make sure the black and gray tanks are drained well. I will also drain the fresh water tank and water heater.



I am going to swing by the RV dealer where I bought it, I am assuming there is some sort of antifreeze to put down the drains for the water in the traps.



What else should I do?



It will be stored indoors in the Riding Arena out of the weather. What can I do to be sure mice don't get in it?



Thanks, Joe
 
Get a cat

Joe- Did you empty the low point drains ? Did you blow out the lines with compressed air? I would get some RV antifreeze and a bypass kit and suck some of the pink stuff into the lines... that will take care of your traps. I'd leave some pink in the toilet... . you don't want that seal to dry out. And get yourself a mouser..... Bruce
 
Joe- Did you empty the low point drains ? Did you blow out the lines with compressed air? I would get some RV antifreeze and a bypass kit and suck some of the pink stuff into the lines... that will take care of your traps. I'd leave some pink in the toilet... . you don't want that seal to dry out. And get yourself a mouser..... Bruce







We do have BC (Barn Cat) out there. :-laf
 
Hello from seattle if you do use air to blow out the lines keep the pressure down to about 20 to 25 lbs. have some one inside to open each faucet till air blows out the water. i dont have air any more so i buy 6 gallons of anti freeze rv type. i drain all the tanks and put a quarter gallon or so down each sink-drain and a gallon down the toilet. i then put the rest in the fresh water tank and pump it in all the lines. be sure to put the water heater bypass on and drain the heater first. pull batteries or cut off switch and trickle charge once in a while. a cover is also nice to keep it clean. robert
 
PS mine is stored in the open field at an RV park so i put in three packs of decon. i have noticed a couple of times that some had been eaten but have never had a trace they were there. i also put two of those moisture eater containers that have the cristals in them and check them once a month but better to put in a small heater. robert
 
Joe,



I copied this off the Airstream Forum. I follow most of these steps when I winterize mine. For the mice I've had success using mothballs (drop them around under cabinets and furniture and in areas that any pipes create openings). The stink goes away pretty quickly in the spring when the RV is ventilated. I've read about a lot of people who use laundry softener sheets. They claim it works for them.



Gene



Winterizing Revisited

Here's a few tricks/tips I picked up from a winterizing seminar.



1. drain black water tank

2. drain gray water tanks

3. drain fresh water tank

4. open hot/cold faucets to release pressure.

5. drain water heater

6. open or drain any low point drain tubes (higher end units) and close them

7. close previously opened faucets

8. by pass water heater

9. disconnect inlet hose (from fresh water tank to pump) at pump.

10. install an adapter to inlet on water pump with a clear hose into RV anti-freeze and turn on pump.

11. open all faucets one at a time, cold and hot until pink anti-freeze runs from them, don't forget to do shower and toilet, run them long enough to fill any p-traps under sinks etc.

12. turn off pump.

13. open hot/cold water faucet to release pressure, take a plastic tie strap and push in valve at inlet fresh water connection outside of RV and with strap holding valve open, close previously opened faucets and turn on pump until anti-freeze runs from fresh water connection. Turn off pump and remove tie strap. **NOTE** it is very important to release pressure from the system prior to sticking tie strap into city water connection valve, by not releasing pressure when the valve is pushed in the spring inside will get sucked in and brake.

14. return water heater bypass valves to summer operation and turn on water pump one last time to get some anti-freeze in water heater. Turn off pump, disconnect hose adapter and reinstall hose from fresh water tank.

15. Put some tape over pump switch so it doesn't accidentally gets turned on and introduce fresh water into system.



Now it is not recommended that you put any anti-freeze in fresh water tank because the inlet hose going to pump sits about an inch or so from the bottom of tank and it will be very hard to flush it out when comes time to reuse it. The bit of water left in it will not harm it.



One more item, if you have an atwood water heater, it has a plastic drain valve, do not replace it with an anode rod used in suburban heaters, it will not be useful. If you have a suburban water heater the anode rod is your drain valve, when you remove it to drain heater if the rod is worn down to the wire at the base only, replace it because if it is reused it will brake and you'll have it rattling inside the tank and crack the lining in the tank.



Three gallons of RV anti-freeze should be enough for the job.

Also if you have dishwasher and washer machines, ice makers etc, you must run them through all cycles to winterize them, good luck.
 
If you have an outside shower, make sure you get antifreeze in that line too. Also, if you have a water filter, take out the filter and either bypass the housing or get enough antifreeze to fill it. There is a Schrader valve dealy bob that you can get to hook to the city water connection to blow out the lines. I've never blown them out, but it can't hurt. Unless you use too much pressure!:-laf
 
WE have a 35` fifth wheel. All in do is drain the low water valves ( 2) of them. Then put TWO gallons of rv anti-freeze in the water holding tank. Turn on your on board pump & then open the farthest water fauset. Then open the outside shower (if you have one). Upen the hot water shut off system & let it pump into the hot water tank. Should be finished. Good Luck
 
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