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Workbench plans?

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JStieger

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I'm far from being a carpenter with skills and foresight so I was wondering if anybody had blue-prints / plans for building a decent, sturdy workbench that they could share?



I've gone to Home Depot and large bookstores and haven't found any "idea books" on this subject.



-Thanks!-
 
i have a bench design i have been using for years. i need to figure out how to get a copy of the print into this post. its pretty basic. it uses 4-2x4x8's, 2-2x6x8's and a sheet of 3/4 particle board or plywood (based on how you plan on finishing off the top)



the top frame is made from the 2x4's. the legs are made from the 2x6's. the legs are bolted to the top with carriage bolts (8 used). the cutoff from the 3/4" (typically 12" x 96") material is attached to the sides of the legs for bracing.



it finishes off to 96" x 36" deep by whatever height you prefer. mine are at 32"



if this sounds like what you are looking for, i will get a pic of my work bench in here tomorrow. i normally finish the top off with a piece of formica.



i have had well over 500 lbs on these benches and they work great. probably built about 20 of these over the years. only problem i had was with the early ones when i did not use glue.



hope this helps



jim
 
lil red cummins said:
if this sounds like what you are looking for, i will get a pic of my work bench in here tomorrow. i normally finish the top off with a piece of formica.



Jim-



That would be great if you could post a picture when you get a chance!



D. Inman-



I'll take a look at that website - thanks for the link
 
as you can see, this bench is full of "stuff" getting ready to ship.



the back board on the bench helps hide all the other stuff under the bench



correction on the height - these benches are at 37" work height.
 
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Go to newyankeeworkshop.com. Click on Master Craftsman, Norm Abram, click on Project Library, click on Measured drawings, scroll down to Work Bench, click, then click on Measured Drawing, $10. 95.
 
Find out who refinishes bowling alleys in your area. When they replace them, the old stuff gets puled out. I got a nice ~10' chunk very cheap and it's ideal for a workbench top.
 
I just threw something together one day a couple years ago, maybe $25 of materials.



2x4 frame and I put 2 of them together for the legs for basically a 4x4. . Strong enough to hold an engine, transmission, etc.

It sat outside for almost a year with several transmissions on it, held up just fine
 
Below is a picture of mine. All 2x6 construction.



Total of 6 4x4 posts. Simply built a 12' x 3' box using 2 2x6x12's for the front/back and 2 2x6x3's for the ends. Then mounted a 2x6x3' every 12" on center.



Notched all the 4x4s so the load rests on wood rather than fasteners.



The 2x6 "studs" are each secured on the ends using 2 drywall screws, 2 20-penny nails, and a boatload of Liquid Nails.



Top is cheap particle board with 3 thick coats of polyurethane. 1/2" bolts secure the top frame to the 4x4s and the cross braces (not visible in the pic) to the ends.



The plans came out of my own head. Remarkably sturdy.



Ryan

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No plans I just pieced mine together one day. But a few suggestions that were given to me, that I will pass on.



Make it at a good working height for you while you are standing, buy a proper height stool/chair so you can sit and work, mine are 41".



I used two sheets of 3/4" sanded plywood glued togther with 'SikaFlex' adhesive, way better stuff than liquid nails and such. then years down the road you can unscrew the top and flip it over and have a brand new surface. With this 1 1/2" top you can set a transmission on it with no problem, as long as you built the rest strong enough.



Make it plenty deep, 3' if you have the room, if not cut it down as needed.



I added a storage shelf to mine, I just ran 2x4s length wise and then used the 1' pieces of 3/4" plywood that I cut down for shelving. I put this shelf so that I could place plastic storage tote crates under the bench on the shop floor. I then store tools and other items on the shelves.



I never thought of Formica, I like that idea!!!



steve
 
Don't forget to install plenty of outlets. I cut 2 of them into the front of my bench and it keeps the cords from having to lie across the work surface.



I WAY overbuilt mine. 2x8's outside with 2x6's every 16". I used 2x6 tongue and groove for the top with 3/4' plywood over that. The work surface is 8' long and 40" deep.



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Thanks guys for the input! I saved your pictures and write-ups so I'll have some fun this fall/winter.



Now it's time to hit the garage sales to get deals on tools...
 
lil red cummins said:
the top frame is made from the 2x4's. the legs are made from the 2x6's. the legs are bolted to the top with carriage bolts (8 used). the cutoff from the 3/4" (typically 12" x 96") material is attached to the sides of the legs for bracing.



Questions:



1) what diameter carriage bolts are good to use?

2) on your picture it's hard to see but do the carriage bolts go in through the front 2x4 panel? And the bolts are diagonal, correct?



Is it better to screw the top plywood in or nail it? I haven't decided whether to do 2 layers of 3/4" plywood or 1 layer of 2x6 and then plywood on top.



Either way I'm going to start building the bench tomorrow... pictures to follow...
 
You might want to consider building it in such a way that the top doesn't need to be fastened down. That way you can easily remove it and replace it in 10 years when it's all torn up.



If you do need to fasten it, use screws so they can be removed later.



Ryan
 
There are many good ideas posted here. I have to weigh in and say that I have built 5 benches for my work areas. Complicated to simple, wood and steel. The main thing I would like to share is that a solid core door makes a great workbench top. They are smooth, flat and strong. My most recent is in the garage at the house. It is a commercial set of legs bolted together with hot rolled flat stock and a solid core door on top. It can be broken down quickly and even I can lift the components. Admittedly, I dont do any heavy hammering on it but I have a steel welding bench over in my shop for that purpose. New Yankee workshop is a fine resource. Whatever you use for a top, you can skin it with sheet of 10 gauge ( lighter or heavier to your taste and use)steel for a real smooth surface. Hope this helps. GregH
 
JStieger said:
Questions:



1) what diameter carriage bolts are good to use?

2) on your picture it's hard to see but do the carriage bolts go in through the front 2x4 panel? And the bolts are diagonal, correct?



Is it better to screw the top plywood in or nail it? I haven't decided whether to do 2 layers of 3/4" plywood or 1 layer of 2x6 and then plywood on top.



Either way I'm going to start building the bench tomorrow... pictures to follow...



the carriage bolts are 5/16 x 3-1/2" with a flat washer inside. the top is glued and nailed to the frame. i was fortunate to have a pnuematic stapler that shoots 2" staples. drywall screws work really well also. the glue is important for longterm stiffness.



the top is 1 layer of 3/4" particle board or plywood (per your personal preference) with a formica laminate on top.



the legs can easily be removed via the carriage bolts for easy moving.



one important point. the remaining piece from the 4 x 8 sheet used for the top, should be cut and glued and screwed to the leg assemblies for additional bracing. if you make your table 36" deep (for example), you should have a slightly less than 12" wide piece left for the sides.



jim
 
Another tip: get yourself a piece of aluminum channel that slides over the front edge of the top. I got mine at Home Depot (it was actually labeled as being meant for capping the edge of 3/4" plywood). Gives you a nice solid edge.



Ryan
 
lil red cummins said:
...

the top is 1 layer of 3/4" particle board or plywood (per your personal preference) with a formica laminate on top...
On my general bench, I found masonite tacked down with brads makes the best work surface.



I built a craftsman bench including vices out of 12/4 maple and walnut. That thing is sick... get compliments from anyone that sees it. After you count up the hours building it, the extra $$ in wood was almost insignificant. I had about 200 hours into it. Made it to break down and transport if I move. That's a good idea for anyone building a good bench.
 
A little steel always works nice. I got these from where I work. They are pedistels for sitting lithography equipment on that we got rid of. They are rated around 75,000 lbs support strength.



I am removing the base plates and I beam off of these and then I flip them over and build up a 3 or 4 inch thick top. They weigh in around 1700 lbs each. Industrial casters on the bottom that retract will allow my to push them around.



Food for thought.
 
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