Worried about EGT's

[s.kelly]

I have an '06 2500 4x4 with the G56 manual. The truck is stock except for Flowmaster muffler & a low restriction air filter system. On a recent trip carrying my 3K pound camper and towing a 3200# trailer, I was forced to drop all the way down to 4th gear to keep the pyrometer below 1000 degrees going uphill. The pyro sensor is post-turbo in the (dealer installed) Jake Brake port. I've always figured about a 300 degree drop from manifold temps so 1K would put me at about 1300 degrees. Plenty of power in 5th gear at 2200 rpm, but I don't have any idea how hot it would get if left in 5th gear. I'm afraid I'd have a meltdown. Is it safe to assume Cummins wouldn't design an engine that would self-destruct under these conditions? What is now the recommended EGT limit for post-turbo? I bought the truck new & only have 82K on the clock, so sure as heck don't want to replace it.

 

[DE Jeeper]

sounds like you did the right thing by down shifting. i defuel at 1350 preturbo but my turbos are very different then yours. because of my big injectors i had problems with egts up steap grades when towing heavy so i instalked a water/meth kit. just keep an eye on it a drive with in kts limits.



aaron

 

[HBarlow]

There have been many, many posts on this subject over the years. You could easily find them with the search engine.

Your engine was designed to operate at egts of as high as 1425* for long periods of time and yes, you should assume that an unmolested engine will operate safely at full load, full throttle indefinitely the way Cummins built it.

BTW, a Flowmaster muffler and low restriction air filter system will do nothing for power or performance and the air filter may not filter air as well as the OEM filter.

 

[Motorhead]

A Smarty jr will lower your EGT's

 

[AH64ID]

I have an '06 2500 4x4 with the G56 manual. The truck is stock except for Flowmaster muffler & a low restriction air filter system. On a recent trip carrying my 3K pound camper and towing a 3200# trailer, I was forced to drop all the way down to 4th gear to keep the pyrometer below 1000 degrees going uphill. The pyro sensor is post-turbo in the (dealer installed) Jake Brake port. I've always figured about a 300 degree drop from manifold temps so 1K would put me at about 1300 degrees. Plenty of power in 5th gear at 2200 rpm, but I don't have any idea how hot it would get if left in 5th gear. I'm afraid I'd have a meltdown. Is it safe to assume Cummins wouldn't design an engine that would self-destruct under these conditions? What is now the recommended EGT limit for post-turbo? I bought the truck new & only have 82K on the clock, so sure as heck don't want to replace it.

Your truck is stock so in theory it's not an issue. Like Harvey said they can run 1450°+ in the manifold all day, its how they met emissions.



There isn't a max recommended post-turbo reading as post-turbo isn't recommended and doesn't have a direct relationship to pre-turbo. The difference can vary from 100-500°.



Drive the truck and see where it runs, then you will know if it changes. You should be perfectly fine running in 5th or 6th.

sounds like you did the right thing by down shifting. i defuel at 1350 preturbo but my turbos are very different then yours. because of my big injectors i had problems with egts up steap grades when towing heavy so i instalked a water/meth kit. just keep an eye on it a drive with in kts limits.



aaron

The 06 is a very different motor (EGT/Heat) wise than the 03 and with stock timing on a 04. 5-07 you can't compare them to an 03-04.

 

[mpaulson]

Stock truck, mat it, unless you feel something is wrong with your truck otherwise like maybe a boost leak etc. Like Harvey said, the aftermarket air boxes are useless, I had an aftermarket one and switched back to stock and added a 4" pipe off the bottom of the box and I actually have more air flow now and I know that I'm not letting dirt into the engine since I'm using the filter that Cummins designed for the engine.

 

[MChrist]

I would drill/tap the manifold and swap the pyro to the manifold. Problem solved. No more guessing.

 

[HBarlow]

I would drill/tap the manifold and swap the pyro to the manifold. Problem solved. No more guessing.

I totally agree with that. I've never understood why anyone would install a pyro downstream where it provides you with a number but not the number you want and leaves you guessing.

 

[s.kelly]

Thanks for the input guys. Sounds like my next project will be moving the sensor from post-turbo to the manifold. My initial reasons for not drilling were the possibility of chips entering the turbo and also weakening the manifold. Skip

 

[MChrist]

There are several write-ups on it, along with several videos on YouTube. Do your homework, and it is easy. Do it with motor running, by the way... and use the correct size drill bits at the right speed. If my memory serves, cast iron likes slow speed, but verify that first.

 

[AH64ID]

Thanks for the input guys. Sounds like my next project will be moving the sensor from post-turbo to the manifold. My initial reasons for not drilling were the possibility of chips entering the turbo and also weakening the manifold. Skip

There are several write-ups on it, along with several videos on YouTube. Do your homework, and it is easy. Do it with motor running, by the way... and use the correct size drill bits at the right speed. If my memory serves, cast iron likes slow speed, but verify that first.

Everyone's opinion seems to be different on this subject so here are my . 02. Do NOT leave the motor running and do NOT use grease (two common methods).

Here is what I recommend. Get two sharp drill bits, one for a pilot and one needed for the 1/8" NPT. Decide where you want it, I recommend the collector for cylinders 4-6. There is a divider between 1-3 and 4-6, so don't drill dead center on the collector.

Drill on a cold motor with the engine off. If the engine is on you will have a spinning turbo, and any chips (or broken drill bit) that go thru the exhaust will hit a spinning turbine wheel and can do damage very easily. Don't use grease because the grease can hold chips on the inside of the hole and when the manifold gets hot from running the chips will then find there way into a spinning turbine blade.

A sharp bit at the proper speed should pull nearly all of the chips out of the manifold as you drill.

When you are drilled and tapped then take a little bit of compressed air and blow thru the hole at low pressure to move any chips thru the turbine.

Install your probe and fire the truck up and let it idle. Any remaining chips will be blown thru the turbine before the turbo is spinning fast enough to have damage caused by the flying chips.

Your done.

These are the two common locations. I have ran mine in both and prefer the lower one.

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[LRutigliano]

I used a small telescoping magnet and twirled it in the hole and picked up all shavings. I have instructions with these photos in my photo gallery.

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[rscurtis]

Pictures I've seen of the later "600" manifold do not show a divided outlet like the original "555" manifold has, but unless you know this for sure, I would drill off center as suggested.

 

[AH64ID]

Pictures I've seen of the later "600" manifold do not show a divided outlet like the original "555" manifold has, but unless you know this for sure, I would drill off center as suggested.

The 6. 7 manifold is not divided, but the 5. 9 ones are (at least all that I have seen)



My 05's on the right.



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[MChrist]

All the mechanics at Banks do it with the motor running. If you take your time, like you should anyway, the chips will be tiny, and will most likely blow out of the hole you are drilling, as mine did. Even if a few tiny specs did go down your exhaust, they will not affect your exhaust blades.

But you can do as you wish... both will net the same result.

 

[AH64ID]

Banks also thinks adding rail pressure is safe, with stock filtration!

With blades spinning at hundreds to thousands of rpms I don't want anything metallic touching them.

 

[rscurtis]

If you remember the dowel pin debacle on the '94-'98 12 valves, there was a machinist in Connecticut who made a kit for the repair. One of the parts of the kit was a weight to replace the oil fill cap so you could pressurize the CC to 2 psi while drilling for the dowel pin retainer. All chips were blown clear of the engine. It is not uncommon for the stock 3rd generation turbo to always produce a positive pressure in the exhaust, even when just idling- this will take care of the chips.

 

[KO_RAM]

I drilled mine with the motor off, but I stuck the shop vac with the hose on the discharge side in the tailpipe. Just shove a rag around it and it will stay in the pipe. The only place for air to go is OUT the hole you are drilling. There's no way to get chips inside. 10 minute job and you're done.



Just make sure to wear some safety glasses.

 

[MChrist]

I was pretty shocked at the amount of airflow and pressure once my drill breached the manifold! I used very slight pressure on the drill, and only for a second or two once I breached. I'm telling you, I would be shocked if anything made it to the turbo. And if anything did, the specs were so tiny, they are not going to hurt anything. I wouldn't have suggested it unless I did it myself, or if I thought there was any real chance of damage. Most mechanics do it this way, also.

But as always, if you feel better with motor off and using a pencil magnet, you can go that route. One of my reasons was that when engine is turning, and IF anything did make it to the turbo, there is already so much airflow that nothing would get stuck between blades and housing. If motor is off, turbo is not moving, and if you are counting on getting the pile of shavings out with a magnet or shop vac, you are not going to get them all. Now you start your motor and those first pulses of exhaust will blow into a non spinning turbine and could very easily drop into the housing, getting a pile of shavings all at once wedged right where you don't want them.

 

[JMarketos]

There have been many, many posts on this subject over the years.

I certainly agree with that! Here is one of the many:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...s-engine-transmission/231946-time-guages.html

My reply was (started at... ) #4.

I tried to objectively present the difference between pre and post, and why someone might choose one or the other. I then became aware that many people like to select one or the other of the choices and defend it as "it must be this and you can choose differently if you want but it doesn't make sense. "

I rest calmly with the knowledge that I understand what the difference is, and, depending on where my focus is at the time, I know which gauge to watch. (I have both).