Would you tow...

[steved]

OK, this is purely subjective... I have a 4k mile trip coming up next year towing around 8500#s (fullsize dodge "2500" on a 2500# trailer)... and then the towing I would do on my own... the truck is a 1500 probably close to the weight of a 2500 gasser...



Would you trust the stock hitch for that much weight (without a weight distributing hitch)??? I towed this much with my 99, but my gut feeling tells me this round tube hitch isn't nearly as stout as the square one that was on the 99. Might consider upping to one of those class V hitches...



A gooseneck isn't an option (slide-in camper)...



steved

 

[ScottLewis]

IMO, that's more trailer than should be pulled without a weight distributing hitch. I pulled a 8K RV with a Broncho for thousands of miles using a class IV Equalizer hitch and sway bar, without any problem.

You will enjoy your trip, and future tows, more with a more stable load. Plus there will be less stress on the truckand the driver.



Dan

 

[rashwor]

I wouldn't if I did not have to. But if I had to, it would be a long slow trip. I think that would be pretty tough on a 1500 truck. Don't get me wrong, I have done similar things. Towed 30K gross with '92 CTD for a long trip. Overloaded was an understatement. JMO.

 

[steved]

I wouldn't if I did not have to. But if I had to, it would be a long slow trip. I think that would be pretty tough on a 1500 truck. Don't get me wrong, I have done similar things. Towed 30K gross with '92 CTD for a long trip. Overloaded was an understatement. JMO.

The towing truck is the one in my sig... an 04. 5 CTD... the truck being towed (on the trailer) is the 1500...



My 04. 5 has the towing package with factory receiver hitch... which is a class 3 right?



steved

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

With that much weight, I would get an equalizer hitch. I pulled an F-150 on my car trailer from Mass to Pa, and the equalizer makes towing a whole lot easier. I ran 70-75 down I-95, and didn't even know the trailer was there.

 

[ScottLewis]

Steved, you're right, my mistake. It is a class III not IV. In any event, the equalizer will make the tow much more comfortable. If you don't want to spend the bucks, you might be able to borrow the hitch head, bars and brackets. Most folks use the brackets that clamp on the trailer frame. If the trailer has surge type brakes it may cause a problem if you over-cinch the bar chains.



Dan

 

[steved]

Well, since I'm still deciding on the trailer... I can actually buy what ever... I was looking at a 10k/18 footer...



So I guess that's something else I need to invest in...



steved

 

[Blu-meanie]

My '05 has a factory class IV, which is stupid for a 3500. The class III is the bumper where you install a hitch ball. If you have the tow package, you have the class IV.

 

[DPelletier]

OK,



1) The factory hitch is a Class IV. Class IV hitches are rated by SAE for 500lbs deadweight and 5000 lbs towing without a weight distributing set up and 1000 lbs deadweight and 10000 lbs towing with weight distributing bars.



2) 8500 lbs sounds optimistic to me.



3) You should have 12 - 15% of the trailers gross weight on the tongue in order to tow properly. Doing the math (even assuming the 8500 lbs is correct), you are over the 500 lbs deadweight by a significant margin.



Although I wouldn't tow 8500lbs + with a 1/2 ton truck if I had a choice, If I HAD to do it, I would use a weight distributing setup as a minimum precaution. I currently tow my 6500 lb cargo trailer with a Torklift Superhitch "Class V" hitch with weight distributing system rated at 1400 lbs dead weight and 14,000 lbs towing with a 32" extension.



Cheers,

Dave

 

[steved]

Where are you guys getting that I'm towing with a 1500???



TOW RIG: 2500 2004. 5 600CTD NV5600 4wd 4. 10s... factory towing package...



And 8500#s being optimistic?? A 10k trailer weighs around 2500#s... my M37 is 6k... unless my math is wrong, 2500+6000=8500#s... the truck I'm TOWING is a 1500 that has 2500 drivetrain, so it will weigh about the same as 2500 and then a lift and big tires... my 2500s have all weighed around 6k.



http://www.geocities.com/dtmcbride/products/trailer_hitch.html



And based on this site, a Class III is 500/5000 and a Class IV is 800/8000...



steved

 

[Nate]

The guy I bought my truck from towed an 30' enclosed trailer loaded with a Jeep Cherokee and most of his personal property... heavy oak furniture, etc with the it... with the stock class III hitch. Not weight distro. Towed from Utah to Alaska.



I pulled my Jeep around for a while with the stock hitch. Trailer and Jeep weight about 8000lbs. I did upgrade to a class V... Putnam though, which I don't think is better than the factory hitch. Cheap China CRAP!

 

[mwhals]

OK, this is purely subjective... I have a 4k mile trip coming up next year towing around 8500#s (fullsize dodge "2500" on a 2500# trailer)... and then the towing I would do on my own... the truck is a 1500 probably close to the weight of a 2500 gasser...

The reason everyone, myself included, thought you were talking about towing with the 1500 is the way you worded your question. You put the 2500 in parenthesis afer the amount of weight you are towing, which looks like that is what is being towed. You then say the truck is a 1500. Since we thought the 2500 was on the trailer, then the thought was the 1500 must be doing the towing.



It is all in the words.



Mark H

 

[JCasper]

My 04.5 with no equalizer hitch

I towed this load with my 04. 5 with no equalizer hitch about 200 miles and had no problems at all. Sometimes when I make this trip I have 15 bales on the truck also. The trailer and all the hay weigh about 13,000 lbs. I will probably upgrade to a class V at some point but so far I have had no issues with the stock hitch.

 

[JCasper]

Sorry the pictures look a little funny, I resized them and now they look wierd.



Joe

 

[DPelletier]

Where are you guys getting that I'm towing with a 1500???



TOW RIG: 2500 2004. 5 600CTD NV5600 4wd 4. 10s... factory towing package...



And 8500#s being optimistic?? A 10k trailer weighs around 2500#s... my M37 is 6k... unless my math is wrong, 2500+6000=8500#s... the truck I'm TOWING is a 1500 that has 2500 drivetrain, so it will weigh about the same as 2500 and then a lift and big tires... my 2500s have all weighed around 6k.



http://www.geocities.com/dtmcbride/products/trailer_hitch.html



And based on this site, a Class III is 500/5000 and a Class IV is 800/8000...



steved

The wording of your first post caused the confusion. The 8500 lbs being optimistic is again based on the assumption that you were towing the CTD which I happen to know would weigh more than that on a trailer. Now that you've clarified the situation, I think towing the 1500 with your 2500 CTD is fine but you still need the WD bars.



And, after researching this subject many, many times, I will reiterate that you cannot haul 800 lbs deadweight (no WD setup) on an SAE rated Class IV hitch.



Do whatever you want, but hauling 8500 lbs without a WD hitch on the factory class IV is a mistake.



Dave

 

[CDonaldson]

steved.



I, like you, took a good look at that class IV hitch that came with my new truck, especially the tube construction that you refer. I started researching several websites regarding this hitch. Not to my suprise, I found several posts that discussed the failure of the tube at the welds. Many people had problems regardless of whether they properly used the hitch with a weight distributing setup or just were pulling small trailers that did not need the WD. A couple, actually had the welds let go and their trailers were hanging on by one side of the tube, and those welds were cracked.



I decided to remove the hitch and go with something better constructed, it was just not worth the risk to me. Once I got the hitch off and was able to see the tubing thickness and overall construction, I was glad I let my intuition and years of hitch experience guide me into questioning this hitch and its capabilities.



Not to trash Dodge, because that is NOT my intention, but I cannot understand why they build a truck as strong and tough as the 3500, and then put what I would call a 'trinket' potmetal mickey-mouse hitch on it. I buy a truck to WORK, and I work one hard hauling and towing. That junk piece actually was not worth 1/2 of what it invoiced for, let alone what I was charged. It is integral to the bumper mounting, so it needs to be cut to install something else to retain the bumper mounts. I just replaced both the bumper and the hitch with better aftermarket parts.



CD

 

[46mech]

steved,



You may already know this, but keep in mind that the receiver is just one link of the tow equipment. Even if you go to a "true" class V receiver it won't matter if the ball mount and ball are only rated for 5K. Like you, most of us have towed at the max (or slightly above) for what the stock receiver is rated at from Dodge; whether we are set up or not set up with W/D. However, if you don't want to go to a true class V rec'vr, I wouldn't tow that load for that many miles without the W/D set up.



Here's my short story made long:

Not too long ago the wife was giving me grief because I wanted to tow our 31ft, 7500lb trailer to the dealer approx. 25 miles away. I had lost the W/D ball mount (that's what happens when you forget to put the pin in ) and I was going to use a standard ball mount with the 2 5/16" ball. Even though I was comfortable towing it for that short distance, she put up such as fuss. so I said, "fine!, if this isn't good enough..... guess what? the stock receiver is only rated at 5,000 lbs without the W/D and I can't tow a 7,500lb trailer with it. " I went with Putnam because I couldn't find another class V receiver with a 1,500lb/15k (wgt carrying) and 1,600lb/16K (wgt distr. ) out there.



Like I said, the rec'vr is just one link. It doesn't do any good to have a rec'vr rated at 15K if the ball mount (and ball) is only rated at 6K. Putnam makes ball mounts rated for their class V rec'vrs. I opted for the adjustable 2 5/16 ball and pintle set up that's rated at 1,600lbs/16K so I don't ever have to think about my weight if I don't want to..... even if I'm not set up with W/D. Most places that sell tow hitches, only sell balls rated at 5K (6K, tops). Go to an RV place and you can get them rated at 10K. But again, if the ball mount is only good for 6K..... that'll be your weak link.



I found my set up at: http://www.hitchesonline.com/

They were the cheapest and had great customer service. The site doesn't list a Putnam class V "XDR" for an '04 or '05, but I know Putnam has one (you can go to their website). The Putnam p/n is 25211 for a class V "XDR". You could call "hitchesonline" and ask him to order that part number.

 

[steved]

Thanks guys...



Yes, I know the receiver is only one link to the chain, but I already have hitches and balls rated for 10k, so that's not an issue.



I'm more concerned about the "cracked" OEM tubes after reading about them over a year ago... however, IIRC, the persons having issues were towing WAY OVER what was recommended... and towing that quite often. If you do a search, you will also find there were guys cracking hitches (and bending the frame as a result) on the 2nd gen rams to from overloading... it isn't just a 3rd gen thing...



I guess my concern is whether or not the hitch is satisfactory even with a weight distributing setup... I would probably be towing this weight only a couple times a year. This cross country trip next year would most likely be the only long distance tow...



steved

 

[DPelletier]

I think you're fine at 8500 lbs with the WD setup on the factory hitch (assuming no long extention is being used).

If you want the strongest setup out there, my vote is for Torklift's SuperHitch. www.torklift.com



I am very happy with my decision to purchase one and I no longer worry about inadequate hitch issues. VERY beefy.



Good luck,

Dave