wow, it's fast! but hot???

[k.vickers]

well, i finally quit whining about which plate to buy and got the #6 (250/630) for my truck. oh my gosh the truck is fast, and when my boost hits 34 and the truck is rumbling i don't wanna hear about a "puff of black smoke", we're talking tractor pull here. however, in all-out acceleration through top gear, my egt hits 1450 #ad

my pyrometer is digital and is installed pre-turbo, so i understand that i'm getting a true reading of the temp at the cylinders. most of the people i know that have gauges talk about 1400 being dangerous, but they all have post-turbo installation, which i know lowers your readings. is my 1400 the dangerous level, or is theirs? also, should my egt be that high when i'm not even pulling yet and just full acceleration? gosh, it is fast, though!

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95 3500 dually 4x4; waterfall red/white; 5 speed; 3:54; 250hp TST; rambrake exhaust brake; k&n air filter; 95 gal auxillary fuel tank/tool box combo;full pillar guages

 

[Red Rocket]

Here's the deal, my dipricol guage has the redline at 1300, and thats the number I try to stay below. Mine is pre-turbo also. I have the 230/605 plate, and I have to be pulling a big load up a large hill to get those temps, but I do have to let off. I also have the disadvantage of the automatic. I have not seen those temps unloaded. Maybe someone else can give a second opinion.

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1998 2500, auto, 3. 54, 285/75-16, TST 230/605, t/c switch, DiPricol EGT/boost guages,K&N,camper special, 65,000 miles,
12 ton goosneck!

 

[SlyBones]

I have s set of Isspro gauges. They make a model for pre-turbo and post-turbo. The pre-turbo redlines at 1300 and the post-turbo redlines at 1000.

I believe general rules is 1300 pre-turbo. Post turbo people add 300 degree to the true temp reading.

I read a post a while back where someone did a dual sensor both pre and post turbo. Then wired it to the gauge with a switch. The results were as much as 450 degrees difference pulling a big load, etc. So the 300 rule is close but not always perfect.

 

[John_P]

kvickers:

I had the #6 plate in my truck up until
last year. You can get high EGT'S with
that plate! I did too.

As you said, having the pyrometer "pre-
turbo" gives the most accurate reading.
The "limit" on that temperature is
1300 DEGREES! I have been told that our
5. 9's can take this temperature with no
problems. However,... that is the LIMIT.
While the engine can "take" 1400 degrees
it is NOT recommended for long! I don't
think "quick spikes" will hurt much, but
I wouldn't stay there for long. Like
"Red Rocket" I try to stay BELOW 1300.
A "fix" for the high EGT's is to install
a 16cm turbo housing or go to an HX-40
turbocharger.

----------
John_P

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Major Pump Mods(By "Scheid Diesel") 370 Diamond B Injectors, Gov. Spring kit, AFC Spring kit, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit,Psychotty Air Filter, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, BD Pressure Loc, Isspro Gauges, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

[illflem]

k,1400°is getting up to the watch out point with a pre-turbo gauge,I wouldn't want to stay there too long. Since you're getting up there without loading it seems like you've got a problem or need to make some changes. I'd check that your exhaust isn't restricted somewhere,maybe your e-brake isn't opening fully or you still have a cat. A Pyscotty will also help in your situation,could also be time for a larger turbo.

 

[DSiemens]

I have a #6 in my truck and I can get up 1300 empty pretty easy if I set on it hard. Boost never goest above 30. I have a factory filter in and as soon as my 0880 filter arives it's goin in. How is you bottom end? I have a 5 speed and I got lot's of go in 3rd, 4th & 5th but nothing in 1st and 2nd. I put out a nice health black plum and it clears up right away so I think I have my afc adjusted about right. Mine's also a 95 with 3. 54 gears.

 

[Forrest]

In regards to pre -vs- post measurements & rule of thumb, my experience is that there is no rule of thumb. When I had the HX35x12 & 4", short straight thru muffler & no cat, with the #11 plate set to 340hp or so, I saw 950 to 1k measuring after @ 32psi.

I figured I was ok because that was while pulling or solo, long hill, wide open. I moved the probe to the exhaust manifold & did a solo run, steep but not that big of a hill. EGT ran up to 1500 pretty fast. #ad


I was obviously past the melt down point on a number of occasions, as many of us have been. Not like I was running there for hours, or even double digit minutes, but definately got there. Definately taxing the synthetics. #ad


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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, TST 380, HX40-16, 300 HP Injectors, Scourge BD 4200rpm Governor kit, McLeod, 4", CATless, straight out back, chrome turn down, ISSPRO Pillar, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, K&N, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, Michelin 235s on Alcoas, Rancho 9000's, Valentine One.
Dutchmen 27' 5th Wheel.
GoldWing.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

It sounds like a 4" exhaust, and maybe advancing the timing would get the EGT's down.

Does your truck have a CAT? It might be clooged. Your EGT's are HOT. You don't have major fueling either.

Check your Exhaust Brake like illflem said. I agree it sounds like you exhaust is restricted somewhere.

To DECREASE Pre Boost smoke, turn the star wheel away from the engine or towards you. This puts more pre-load on the diaphram. You won't get so much fuel before boost comes on.

34 lbs of boost should be enough to burn the extra fuel cleanly. Not sure why you are getting heavy smoke at higher boost & RPM's.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-02-2001). ]

 

[R.ebel]

K. vickers,
If the fuel plate in your truck is moved forward from the stock position even a little bit, it can cause problems. My experience has been 1/16" can make a big difference. You might try bumping the fuel plate back a little to lower your temps. If you carefully positioned the plate in the 'stock' location then something else is causing your temperature problem.

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1997 2500 Ext Cab 4X4,5 spd,3. 54's,Pac brake,Rancho 9000's,Centerforce clutch,K&N airfilter, Isspro gauges,TST #11 plate (280hp/680tq),AFC medium spring, Jardine 4" exhaust, 370 Diamond B marine injectors and 16cm turbine housing.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

I also have a TST #6 and can easily hit 1400 - 1450. My pyro is in the exhaust manifold. I used to think I had a problem, but now I don't. It is all conrolled with the right foot! I slid my plate all the way forward upon initial install and have never looked back. I don't have my cat, but the rest of the exhaust is stock. Maximum boost I have seen is 29 psi. I am in the same boat and don't think I have a problem. Oh and one more thing, I did some modifications to allow cool air in to my K&N and this did not seem to help either. I'll just live with it for now. Big BOMBing #ad
plans coming up so no use tinking with what I got.

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John McEachern
Fort St John B. C. Canada
1998 12v, 4X4, QC, auto w/tc switch, air, tilt, cruise, 3. 55 gears, TST #6, Isspro boost/pyro/transmission gauges, BD VB&TC, CC industries headache rack and rails, JVC KD-SX949 Cd player, forest green, Brigestone Dueler M/T's 285/75/16, Eagle 16x8 rims, K&N airfilter.

 

[k.vickers]

Originally posted by dsiemens:
How is you bottom end? I have a 5 speed and I got lot's of go in 3rd, 4th & 5th but nothing in 1st and 2nd.

it's hard to tell what kind of difference there is in the low end without towing, due to the close ratio of the gears. i understand what you are talking about ... sometimes it's hard to tell how much boost you are getting because by the time you start getting it spooled up you have to change gears. i do notice a difference, though in my lower gears, but not as much as i do in the top two.