2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Yoke Bolt Broken

[rnolen]

I put in my new SBC Con0 clutch on saturday, and things went well up until the very end. We were putting the front driveline in and one of those little 10mm yoke strap bolts broke off. We tried to get it out with an easy out, but no luck. The easy out broke and now I am in a place that I have to replace the yoke that comes out of the axel housing. I will be calling Standard Transmission tomorrow looking for the part, but I was just wondering if anyone had ever replaced this part before or not. If so got any words of advice. The yoke is just held in the front axel housing by a nut, and I am guessing that it is just splined in and not pressed. I am not even sure what axel that actually is. I believe it is is a Dana 60, but not real sure. Well if you can provide any feed back let me know. I think my signature says that my truck is 4x4, but in case it isn't I just stated so. The truck is driveable since it is the 4x4 part and not the large drive train, but I live at 9000ft and it just might be snowing here soon and don't want to engage 4 wheel drive with only 3 out of the 4 bolts that hold the drive train in place. The clutch is great though. I am truly happy with the money I spent for SBC.





Thanks



Russ

 

[Nate]

Yeah D60.



You just need to remove the nut and you'll be able to "wiggle" the yoke off. It's just splined but usually they are snug on the splines.



I don't know for sure if the front axle uses a crush sleeve for pinion bearing preload or not.



If it does, it's more of a challenge to make sure you don't tighten down the nut too much and crush the sleeve more.



If it's solid shims, which I think it is, you just Bubba tight down the nut. I bet for these trucks is a stupid high number like 250ft/lbs or something.

 

[Extreme1]

No crush sleeve.



I found this while looking for something else.



Torque spec is 215-315 ft. lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, mark the nut and the shaft. On reassembly, make the marks line up and your're done.

 

[rnolen]

Help

Ok, Friday I spent calling a few driveline places and a few transmission places with no real luck. The driveline places wanted me to give them specs about spline counts, various sizes of, etc. The transmission places either didn't have something for it or they were vary confused. I haven't called the dealership yet due to they are so bloody expensive, but I could use some help here. I believe the yoke I need is a Spicer part, but I am not real sure what to ask for when I am talking with some of these folks. I called a local shop and the parts guy wanted part of my VIN number because he could look up the part with that. Is this something I could find? I really don't want to decomission the truck just to pull everything out and report numbers, and then wait on the parts to arrive. We are traveling to a number of rodeo's and need the truck up and running.



Thanks





Russ

 

[dmhollister]

Are there any reputable four wheel drive stores in your area? They will more than likely have the part in stock ready to go. At least that is the way up here in Colorado. When you do find one, make sure to count the number of turns as well as mark the nut an shaft. This advice was given to me for replacement of a yoke on my TJ. Good Luck.

 

[Loghead]

Just a thought here... .

If you're faced with the prospect of needing to pull the yoke no matter what you do, you might as well go ahead and remove it. With the yoke on a workbench, you might have better luck trying to drill the old bolt out. I think it's worth a shot ( I've done it before), since your going to have to dig deep and open your wallet wide to get a new flange.

 

[rnolen]

Good suggestion. I am just about at that point. Called the dodge dealership finally and they gave me a price of 98 bucks. I was looking at a few other places and the prices seem to be around 40-50 bucks. Well I will continue to call around and then finally will probably have to break down deal with the down time.





russ

 

[rnolen]

Broke down and spoke with the dealer today. I needing my VIN number though which I didn't have, but he gave me a round figure quote of $98. 00. Does this seem high to anyone else. I don't hate dealerships I just know they want an arm and a leg for parts. I did get a hold of a place called arizonedriveline.com and he gave me another guess of about 80. 00 without shipping. I was expecting $50 for this part, but that was just after talking to a few people about it. I hope I have a part ordered tomorrow. It is supposed to snow this weekend up and I hope I don't have to use 4 wheel drive.





UGH



Russ

 

[Loghead]

It's a pricey part. It's got to be strong and (hopefully) they'll not need to be making truckloads of them, so the high price is to be expected.

 

[Extreme1]

They're forged, that's about right for price. I priced one out to cure I leak mine had before parts became readily available on eBay.



The one I listed above sold for $15. 01 + $5 shipping. I've dealt with that place several times and they wouldn't list it if it was damaged. They ship quick too.