2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission You got to be kidding me...

[KnightR]

I'm one of the new kids on the block. Just checking prices on parts and see a vacuum pump for a 2nd. Gen. Diesel on ebay remanufactured for $389 and I was reading one post that said that's cheap. One guy recommended a ford vacuum pump mounted on the firewall as a cheap way out, than a die hard pipes up and said a ford and Cummins. No way. Well I say Yea Yea. That much money for a part that should go for no more than a $100 new. Maybe if Cummins had a sheeet load of them collecting dust on a shelf they would know what inventorys all about, and drop prices. Heck for that money I would have my wife crammed under the hood with a converted tire pump providing vacuum.

 

[wcoomes]

I bought a kit to replace the seals:



DODGE RAM CUMMINS DIESEL VACUUM PUMP RESEAL KIT



The replacement process is in Issue #55.

 

[AndyMan]

First, I agree with wcoomes. that repair kit is AWESOME. I've rebuilt mine for $56 or whatever it is and it's been working like a CHAMP ever since.



Second... Maybe my case was different... my vac pump was leaking oil, but it was still working. That was an issue for me cause it was making a horrid mess up under the hood. Putting a pump up on the firewall won't solve that problem... also, since the power steering pump is driven off the same gear as the vac pump and they are mated together, it seems like a poor band-aid to just put a vac pump on the firewall.

 

[GAmes]

A seal kit is available from Cummins for about $14. Just no DVD. That only solves a leak problem. If the pump itself fails I don't know if it can be easily rebuilt. The price may reflect it's low demand rate. Mine still works great.

 

[KnightR]

Thanks for the info at least I know where it is located. I have a air condition not working and I think possibly it is a vacuum problem. One gentlemen posted me that the air reverts to default which blows thru the defroster in event of vacuum loss. I have a 98 12v I purchased not to long ago, and I found out the engine in it was a 96 12v. No big deal same HP and it was rebuilt. But to make a long story short they might have disconnected a vacuum line, or did'nt recharge the ac, a ga zillion things. My problem is been retired 13 years, and not enough time in the day to even open the hood. Secondly, the horror storys on this board, and locals about the guys and gals that work on your vehicles nowdays. So I gotsa do it myself if I want it possibly done right. Right?

 

[JGK]

If the pump as failed such that it must be replaced, I believe FixinRams at the link posted by wcoomes also sells rebuilt pumps. Hopefully cheaper than where you found them.



The seal replacement is quite easy. Its getting the thing in and out that's kinda tough. You can separate and reconnect the PS pump from the vacuum pump while the two are still down along side the engine, thereby avoiding having to get the PS pump lines loose - the rubber parts seems to bond real well to the metal fittings they are clamped to. But that is a bit awkward. On the other hand, bringing them both out at the same time can be more of a mess unless you suck out most of the PS pump fluid first. I've done it both ways.



-Jay

 

[tgordon]

KnightR, not to long after I got my truck I had a vacum line fall from the holder onto the turbo and melt. My first sign of trouble was when I could only get air flow to the windshield. A trip to the local auto parts store and about $5 later I replaced the hard plastic line with a rubber one and never had a problem since. Any time I am under the hood now I look under the "ledge" at the back of the hood just to make sure nothing else has fallen into a cooking position for later trouble. I hope it is something simple like that, If you do not have gauges you can tap on the schrader valve and see if you at least have some pressure in the lines, and with the engine running have somebody cycle the compressor on and off for you to see if the clutch is engauging. Since it sounds like you have sooo much time and nothing to do:-laf



Troy