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Your favorite penetrating oil?

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Where do you guys buy wire?

Need a quick education on lifts...

i've got a few cans of [LPS LST] kicking around. . got some samples of it, along with some lps spray lube and electrical contact cleaner. . haven't used the penatrant, but the lube and contact cleaner work real well



Nick, have you tried the LPS yet? I'm curious what you like, as I figure locomotives are an excellent test case for a quality penetrant.



Ryan
 
Kroil works like nothing else I have ever used, FANTASTIC stuff. It loosened stuff up that nothing else would. Not that bad smelling either.



Never heard of PB Blaster-East Coast product?
 
Try this stuff ( torq "cb" corrosion blasting penetrating oil ) this stuff rocks you will fall in love it is from a place called Kimball Midwest they have all kinds of do dads and this one works
 
S'ok!

In our shop we use a product called "S'OK!" Seems to work decent, smells nowhere as bad as the other products. Barnes distributing carries it, made by Shamrock Specialties, Inc. The can says "Saves time, money, tempers and knuckles"! For all other liquid lube purposes we use LPS products, or Tri-Flow w/ Teflon.
 
Whats this "rust" you speak of? Everything under my Jeep has a thick and continually replenished coat of either motor oil or gear oil. Nothing gets a chance to rust. The epa doesn't much care me doing river crossings though :)



A guy I used to work with gave me can of "penetrating oil". No name. Swore by it though.
 
I've tried PB but Kroil and Schaeffer's penetro are the ones I use. I keep a can of wd-40 only for cleaning my tools up.
 
My late uncle -- master machinest, tool/die maker, etc. -- swore that a 50/50 mix of iodine & castor oil would go through the seams of a tin can; consequently it had to be stored in a glass jar. About a year ago I decided to try it and bought iodine and castor oil at the drug store.



I couldn't even get them to mix, let alone penetrate anything! I don't think my uncle was BS'ing me, so what did I do wrong? Do you have to heat it to get the two to mix? Has the formula for iodine changed? All I could find was "sting-less" iodine, which I'm sure is not what he used.



Anyone ever hear of this? Have any ideas on how to get it to work?
 
:mad: I usually use PB Blaster for some really rusty stuff, let it soak for a while and keep soaking it if its been really rusted for a long time. most people think that once you spray it on its gonna come right off. It takes time and repetition. I use JB 80 a lot for a general lubricant for going back together with stuff so it slides together better, soak my receiver hitches so they don't rust in the hitch:mad: door hinges. We also use it alot on cranes and draglines, those things need constant lubrication and tweaking. Just my opinion. If its really tough you have to use the ole' smoke wrench :-laf
 
PB is great. WD-40 will work as a starting fluid when you don't have either around. Either scares me, too easy to blow a head gasket. WD 40 may be taking a chance too. Just because you get away with it does not mean you will the second time.
 
S'ok

In our shop we use a product called "S'OK!" Seems to work decent, smells nowhere as bad as the other products. Barnes distributing carries it, made by Shamrock Specialties, Inc. The can says "Saves time, money, tempers and knuckles"! For all other liquid lube purposes we use LPS products, or Tri-Flow w/ Teflon.



When I was a mechanic back in my college days In Texas we used S'Ok at our shop and I have never used another product that worked so good. Plus as a nice bonus it has a kind of pepper smell. The problem I now have is trying to find a suppler up here in Alaska. So now I'm a Kroil man but I still feel the S'ok was better on exhaust bolts, etc.



PB Blaster I've used a few times with ok success but it's smell is horrible so consequently I still have a half used can sitting in my shop and I reach for the Kroil long before I will grab the Blaster.



Here is a link for S'Ok

http://www.shamrockspecialties.net/
 
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