Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Your opinions and thoughts please

[kking]

Situation:



I have a ‘94 Reg Cab LWB, 5 Speed, 3:54 gears, 201k miles, KDP tabbed, completely stock except for relocating the fuel filter and a Linex sprayed in bed liner. I have been pulling a 30-ft 5th wheel with no problems at all. I have just recently purchased a different 5th wheel that weights in at 11,200 dry and grosses at 15,000. I pulled the new one about 700 miles to get it home. My truck needs more power, and some overload springs in the rear to help with the extra tongue weight (11,200 x 15 to 20 percent = 1680 to 2240) I plan on taking the truck and trailer to a scales to verify, but have not yet. The trailer is a New Horizons and has the largest drum brakes available 3 3/8 inch and seems to stop the unit very well, better than the old setup.



The Plan

1. Get gauges installed (EGT and boost).

2. Install a number 6 or 8 TST plate. (230/605 or 250/630)

3. I don't plan on doing anything with the governor springs at this point.

4. Have a set of overload springs or maybe a set of air bags installed.

5. Get a new clutch (higher rated), pressure plate, throw out bearing , etc.

6. Getting the transmission reworked and having fully splined 5th gear shaft and new 5th gear added.

7. I am thinking my weakest link in all of this is the rear tires. They are 245/75-16's with a load rating of 3042 pounds (load range E) single at 80 pounds. I plan keeping new tires on the rear (I mean to swap the rear ones out at 20/25thousand. )

8. I only pull the trailer about 5-10 percent on the time now.



I am not interested in going faster, just want to be able to pull my new trailer better.

I would like any and all your thoughts or comments with this setup before I start.

Thanks for you input

Ken

 

[dodge cummins]

before the engine upgrade you have to make her breathe better first by installing a straight through exhaust 4-5 inches wide and also a intake like bhaf or afe. if you are having current 5 speed transmission problems than get that fixed also and put in a sbc. after all that then you can really bomb the engine.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

get the governor spring kit. will make towing through the hills much easier.



Forrest

 

[WaynesWorld]

Imho

kking,

Try to think of the entire system.

the air coming in----

the fuel being burned----

the exhaust going out----

As you improve one it helps the entire system work better, when you do them all it really works great! Oo.

Look at the signature of some of the others for their mods, too.

Ken, try to think of the extra hp & tq not as just going fast but rather moving the truck & trailer quicker or easier down the road. It will also help your fuel mileage due to less use of full throttle. The last benefit, is better performance around town without the trailer.

You won't regret any extra hp & tq you build into the truck. :--)

The biggest bang for your $$$$ is the plate, gov & afc springs.



WAYNES WORLD

 

[crabman]

Its All Money

kking,

#1. Get all 3 gauges and install{boost, EGT & F/P} $200-$300

#2. AFE air filter or = $225

#3. TST plate #6 now (clutch upgrade, then #10) $195

#4. 3K GSK $125

#5. 4" exhaust (consider ATS exhaust manifold also) ex. $400+, ATS, $450

#6. springs verses air bags. (tires also) Check the Towing, Hauling and RV Forum and see what people there like/dislike. ($?)

#7. When the 5th gear goes, then do the transmission. ($?)



As stated in many previous posts: "The best bang for the $ is #3 and #4".

All $ estimates are just that, estimates, but it will put you in the ballpark.

crabman

PS. Ever consider an exhaust brake? HUGE difference when towing!

 

[kking]

what the heck does "sbc" and "afc" stand mean?

 

[ewcmr2]

With that heavy trailer I'd be looking into the dual rear wheel conversion before worring about more power.



The way I did the conversion was to sell my 2500 and buy a 3500.

 

[PKemp]

Gauges first. Its hard to see where you're going without knowing whats happening now. transmission second. If towing anything over a few bags of dog chow and your neighbors tree stump to the dump. Dodge is known for having trannys that FAIL. I put four autos in my personal truck before I broke down and got a real one (SunCoast Converters Pro-Loc triple disk and HD transmission). You have a slightly cheaper future having a standard. Don't screw around, take care of it now. A #10 plate for your setup is best for towing. A #6 will give you more middle band power but lose on the top. A #4 will give you incredible low end but no top. A #10 is your best solution $$$$ wise. It will have the broadest band of power for towing and still have some spunk in town. Play with the "star wheel" and timming to get the best response. Like "Crabman" says your greatest enemy will be heat. Get the best (AFE MegaCannon) intake your budget will allow (Air In). Then get the biggest straight thru exhaust you can stand (DPP 4", no cat, straight thru muffler)(Air Out). These will help dramatically on EGTs on those long hill pulls. And an exhaust brake may be good too, since the weight of that trailer could very well push you thru an intersection regardless of what your truck brakes are capable of on an icey day. Real performance and rock solid dependability will require a modified turbo: Piers hx35/40 or twins. Look at the www.htturbo.com site for lessons on upgrading and look at their B1/B2s. It all comes down to money. Where do you want to go and how much expertise and $$$ do you have to get there????? Or are you relying on someone else to decide for you? The Cummins is, if nothing else, extremely dependable for 500k and better. There are others out there that have more flash, more in-town "take-off" from the gate, and more hill pulling power. I know I have several of each in my business. But what I can tell you is that the Cummins will be here a lot longer than the rest... ... In your situation, if all you want is towing... . stay away from injectors and delivery valves. These will raise power but bring long term problems in mechanical failures. Plan now before you go any further. Read everything you can find and find a good mechanic you can trust. What a pipe dream... But XMAS is coming... close your eyes and make a wish..... Good Luck, have some good single malt Scotch and contemplate the season... ... ..... !!!!!!!

 

[Kirwin]

Towing the load

Ken, check my sig for my set up. Let me first say that a trip to the scales will be enlightening. My 97 truck set up to tow with me, the wife, and the Basett weighed in at 7700 lbs. Thats alot compared to the 8800 GVWR. Your tounge weight will put you over GVWR most likely. How safe do you want to be? You can put 19. 5" tires on to give you more tire capacity on the rear axle, if you want you can even get a dually axle to put back there to help with the weight. Just keep in mind that LEGALLY the truck is only allowed to weigh 8800 lbs. Thats it! Its max GCWR is 18,000 lbs (with the 4. 10 ratio). That means truck and trailer weighed together are not allowed to exceed 18K. 18K - 11,200 means that your truck couldn't weigh more than 6,800 before you put anything in the trailer. My experience with travel trailers is that using the maximum GVWR is more realistic as to how much the trailer will weigh when loaded for a trip. If you were in an accident and the lawyers were to discover that you are overloaded by say 4000 lbs, (nearly 50% of the trucks capacity) you could be left without insurance coverage. That would be a bitter pill to swallow. I went to the 03 dually just to prevent this scenario from playing out. I'm not trying to disuade you from your truck buildup, just reminding you that there is more too this than just getting more power, springs and tires. This topic has been discussed at length over on the Towing and Hauling forum. Look over there and you will find out more than you wanted to know about towing heavy. Hope this helps. Ken Irwin



PS sbc stands for South Bend Clutch and afc stands for Air Fuel Control. The AFC limits fuel until the turbo builds enough boost pressure to burn additional fuel.

 

[DBrickel]

get the governor spring kit. will make towing through the hills much easier.



Forrest

I agree. Best bomb I ever did. Along with a #10 plate

 

[kking]

Thanks to all you replied to my post. I have decided to mostly leave the ole '94 alone except for gauges and keep on driving it on a daily basis. I plan on purchasing a new 2005 325/610 dually, most likely with the automatic (wife wants to drive it sometimes). It just seemed the more I thought about that I was going to be pushing what has been a very very good truck past it's limits and I would like to stay as legal as possible also. So now I will be a two CTD man and that is a very good thing. Thanks again

Ken

 

[Kirwin]

Congratulations on your new truck decision

kking, you are a man after my heart. I came to the same decision. When you get ready to buy, make sure you repost on here to get the latest input on what you want on your new truck. There is alot of good info on the TDR, its just difficult sometimes to weed through so much to find what you want to know. The difference between your 12 valve truck and the new CR truck is amazing. With the automatic transmission go with the 4. 10 rear end ratio. Ken Irwin

 

[dtygart]

Hi Ken,



I am not an expert in this area, and sorta a newbie everywhere else--check with your tire dealer about the cost vs gain of going to 19 inch RV tires and wheels.



David