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Your Workbench...

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rbattelle

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I've outgrown my little "Gorilla Rack" workbench and am in the planning phases of a monster to replace it. I plan to go with a 4'x12' unit constructed of 4x4s and 2x6's for the major load bearing members. Big cabinet/storage area above it (picture a kitchen counter/cabinets).



I'd love to see some pics of others' workbenches so I might steal some ideas...



-Ryan :)
 
I have 13' of regular kitchen cabinets. Where the sink used to be I installed a parts washer tank. I'll try to get a pic. It looks like a junkyard right now. LOL
 
I dont have a pic, but mine is 10' long x 40" deep. I used 1/4" steel plate and broke the edge in the front and back. I made a trough for the back to catch fluids and to drain funnels and filters in with a catch tank below. I used 4"x4"x 1/4" wall tube for the legs and then 2"x2" angle iron to brace them. It is plumbed for air and wired for power. works great, a lot more stable than wood, and didn't cost that much more than wood. Oh yeah, i made the rear legs 2" shorter than the front and installed 1" bolts in the bottom. this way i can adjust the table from level to up to 2 " of rearward slope so during tear down, the fluids all run to the drain trough
 
look around on garbage day too and you might find one of those big deep 1 piece stamped stainless steel kitchen sinks. . i had one lined up for my workbench to use as a parts washing station, but the "wife" of the buddy tossed it :mad: oh well, i have seen a few in the trash, but always on the way to work so i haven't had time to dumpster dive
 
My workbench... ... . is too fullto use.



I have 3, all are full size solid wood doors with 4x4 legs and 1x6 skirting.



I also have a work station in the middle of the garage right now made from some old cabinets sitting on the floor, and some old doors on top of them. It is roughly 5x7.
 
Here is what I made a few years ago. It's 4' x 6' and made from 4x4 for legs and strecthers. The top is made from 3-1/4" of MDF: (1- 1" & 3- 3/4" sheets) all glued together with contact adhesive. The legs and stretchers are doweled together. Overall it weighs several hundred pounds empty. It was originally made as an outfeed table for my tablesaw and as an assembly table for cabinet building. Wish I would have left it 8' long. Here is a picture of it.



Michael



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here's a pic of my setup. they are old metal cabinets from a kitchen. the top is 3/4 plywood. my plans are to put stainless on the top if metal prices ever come back down.
 
Whatever you do, make sure there are lots of outlets around your bench. I hate running cords for stuff around the bench. Just something to trip over.

The crate under the bench is on wheels and rolls out for a portable work surface.



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Spooled-up,



Those legs are 4x4s... are they pressure treated? I'm also going with 4x4 legs, and the pressure treated fence-post type are MUCH cheaper than the non-pressure-treated variety, but I was afraid they wouldn't look good. Yours look perfectly fine.



-Ryan
 
Ryan,



They are pressure treated. I had a 4x4 that had been around for a while and had dried out a little. It fades to a normal color. I can't find a non pressure treated 4x4 around here anywhere and I looked everywhere. I only have the legs on the front. The bench is mounted to the wall with 3. 5" screws. You could put a Cummins on that thing! It has 2x6" joists under the top, 2x6" tongue and groove top with 3/4" plywood on top of that and the vise has one 1/2" lag bolt right into the center of the leg and 1/2" through bolts on the other two mounting points. I built a 2" overhang on the front that is handy for clamping some things to. I guess I overbuilt, but I won't break it anytime soon!
 
Well, I've got most of my bench built now (no pics - camera broken). I used 3/4" particle board for the top, and now I want to seal it.



I could use some advice on a good sealer/protectant. I know I could use multiple coats of some type of polyurethane, but is that really the best stuff to handle the abuse of a workbench? I was considering buying a gallon of Sig Supercoat butyrate dope (used for finishing wooden airplane models - very tough stuff), but am wondering if there's something better out there.



I'd prefer something that's clear coat, with a fairly smooth finish. If polyurethane is best, should I get a type meant for hardwood floors?



-Ryan
 
I wonder how fiberglass resin would work. I would think the particle board might kind of soak up the first coat but the second coat should make it smooth and shiny. Has anyone out there tried this?
 
masonite

I have screwed down masonite panels over 3/4 ply for my benchtops. When it gets torn up or too dirty to deal with it'sa snap to replace and not too expensive. just a thought
 
Have you considered using line-x or something similar, or the do-it-yourself type of bedliner material? It'd be nice and grippy. Just a suggestion.
 
Spooled-up said:
Have you considered using line-x or something similar, or the do-it-yourself type of bedliner material? It'd be nice and grippy. Just a suggestion.

True, but I'd like something smoother than a bedliner material. And something that's not black. What's masonite? Is that the same stuff as "cement board"?



-Ryan
 
a twin?

Couldn't fit my "tools" on a bensh that size:) had to say it.



Back to the topic at hand. Masonite is actually a wood product. generally about 1/4in sold in 4x8s. very dense and dark brown in color. It woll have a smooth side and a pebbled side. You will find it wherever thay have panelling ina home store. Cement board is more porous and much heavier. However, Hardybacker tile board might work too.
 
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