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Zerex Anti Freeze

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Was at my auto parts dealer for Anti freeze for my 2004 5. 9L. He told me this is what everybody is using in the Dodge 5. 9L. Looking at the board, should have done that first, looks like everybody is using G05. Anybody use this stuff? It's Zerex extended life for Diesels. Was $9 a gallon





Valvoline.com > Products > Antifreeze Radiator Products > Antifreeze > Zerex® Extended Life Antifreeze / Coolant



Zerex® Extended Life Antifreeze / Coolant

Protect against liner pitting and corrosion



Summer boilover and winter freezeup protection

Fully formulated or pre-charged to protect against liner pitting and hard water scale

Meets the Caterpillar EC-1 long-life spec.

Cummins 14603 approved

Extend drain interval to 6 years, 14,000 hours, or 600,000 miles with the use of Zerex® Extended Life Extender



Thanks for the replies.
 
GO5 or HOAT are the key figures to look for and, as far as I know, Zerex is the only manufacturer. Autozones carry it.
 
What about "compatible with all other colors"

I recently took my truck to our family mechanic to replace the waterpump . When I told Joe that this engine requires a special HOAT G-05 rated coolant he responded with a Goober sounding,"We use a coolant that is compatible with everything on the market. I'm sure it will be ok. " I can't find any info on any brand other than Zerex that certifies the HOAT G-05 rating. Will this suposed "compatible with everything coolant" be ok to use in my vehicle or should I go back to Joe and request that he flush and refill my cooling system with the correct fluid. I would do it myself, but I don't have the time.



What damage could occur from use of improper coolant?



Sasquatch
 
Been using good ol' Prestone in mine since the first flush. 214k miles on it and no problems outside of a water pump a while back, doubt it was caused by the Prestone.
 
The G-05 is a HOAT antifreeze, if you go buy it from Ford it'll be red if you buy it from Dodge it'll be really light yellow, if you buy it from Auto-zone it'll be cheaper:-laf



I bought a case from NAPA, they would only sell it to me by the case because they didn't stock it but they were willing to get it. The wife 06 used it and I switched my 01 to it.
 
Not one post here ... ... ... ... ..... telling how many gals/qts is needed.....

Bah HumBug !!!!!!!!!

I believe you need six gallons total of antifreeze in a 3rd gen (it's in the owner's manual... ). I used 4 gallons of antifreeze and two gallons of distilled water for a ratio of 65/35 which will give maximum freeze protection (-84 F if I am not mistaken).
 
Not one post here ... ... ... ... ..... telling how many gals/qts is needed.....



Bah HumBug !!!!!!!!!

If some one would read his owners manual, they would see it takes 27 qts. !!!:p

I thought that the HOAT couldn't be used in the 02 & earlier years. Don't know please inform.



Just like all these new oils coming out, it is backwards compatible for anything previous. But, why fuss with the stuff. Good ol' green Prestone is more then enough for any CTD !!!
 
I always used G05 in my 03. I replaced the original water pump at 473k miles as a preventative measure. It definitely showed some wear, but was not leaking. Not sure if the life was longer with the G05 or not. I would stick with G05 for the small increase in price. It was about $1/gallon more when I purchased the G05.
 
Here is a fantastic article on antifreeze on Geno's Garage website.

It covers coolant specifics for all generations and year models.

I just ordered Zerex G-05 from Oreilly Auto. They list it on their website but typically have it in the warehouse. I had mine at the store within 12 hours. It was $16/gal and I bought 4 gallons of coolant and 4 gallons of distilled water. I also replaced the hoses. I changed it at 130k miles and the coolant looked perfect. I had no scaling or deposits in the radiator.

Hope this helps.
 
But, why fuss with the stuff. Good ol' green Prestone is more then enough for any CTD



Generally speaking, I agree with MMeier. I find it highly unlikely that plain old ordinary Prestone green ethylene glycol would hurt anything.



As far as I'm concerned, the only danger in mixing coolant formulations is the possibility of precipitating chemicals out of one of the coolants, forming a nasty gel. This is what gave Dex-Cool a bad reputation, as I recall. But the problem seems to have gone away with modern coolant formulations.



When these threads come up it's mandatory for someone to point out we don't have removable cylinder liners, so pitting protection is irrelevant.



What damage could occur from use of improper coolant?



An excellent question, and I would suggest that the answer is "not much", unless you either 1) put something in with low lubricity, or 2) use something that kills the seals in the cooling system. Neither situation is likely to occur with any modern anti-freeze.



Honestly, if I didn't need the freeze protection I think I'd run good 'ol distilled water, maybe with a little bit of lubricity agent to protect the water pump.



I've been running Fleetguard propylene glycol since 2004. It's good for either 350k miles or the first engine rebuild, whichever comes first.



Notice your owners manual specifically states, "do not use propylene glycol". I'll let the board know when something breaks because of the PG.



-Ryan
 
MMeier, Thank you, you are absolutely correct. I get so caught up and obsessed with this site and its information, I failed to go back to the owners manual.



Is their a tutorial or detailed instructions on how best to change/replace the coolant.

Many on here talk about this procedure and that, but little actual instruction is offered to the novice owner. I have tools and ability, but no DODGE/CTD experience.



At 90K miles should I be looking at replacing T-stat (with what brand & #) and any hoses ?? I dont know coolant history, although it "looks" good. (This truck is "new" to me)



I did buy a case of 6/GAL of the ZEREX G-05.



Thanks to all... ... ... ... .
 
This is the best chart I have found yet.



Courtesy of PenRay Corp. They are the company that produces the chemicals and additives for Detroit Diesel and many more. A trusted source to say the least.



As you can see, only 6 choices for HOAT for our wagons in the vertical Hybrid HOAT column but down at the bottom of the chart where the compatibility is shown opens up the choices a bit more by adding three more columns, Conventional fill wSCAs and both types of OAT.

For example I use the Shell Rotella Extended Life for top-offs (before I changed the stupid coolant hose behind the turbo) which is shown in the OAT group and is compatible.



Just thought it might help to clear up or at least simplify some of the coolant confusion.



The *** footnote indicates that any more than 10% added from another group can reduce corrosion protection but with these non-sleeved "B" series engines it is nowhere the issue that can be created by mixing incompatible coolants in a large wet sleeved diesel.



Also interesting to note that all 6 HOAT choices meets Daimler's specs but only 1 of the 6 (Fleetguard) meets the Cummins spec.

Over to the right of the chart, check it out. I am sure that it refers to the large diesels but found it humorous none the less. :-laf:-laf



Should I post this chart elsewhere so more will see it???
 

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MMeier, Thank you, you are absolutely correct. I get so caught up and obsessed with this site and its information, I failed to go back to the owners manual.



Is their a tutorial or detailed instructions on how best to change/replace the coolant.

Many on here talk about this procedure and that, but little actual instruction is offered to the novice owner. I have tools and ability, but no DODGE/CTD experience.



At 90K miles should I be looking at replacing T-stat (with what brand & #) and any hoses ?? I dont know coolant history, although it "looks" good. (This truck is "new" to me)



I did buy a case of 6/GAL of the ZEREX G-05.



Thanks to all... ... ... ... .

The way I do mine if time permits , I drain what is in there, fill with deionized/ demineralized water, drain again, throw in a bottle of Super Flush, or super radiator cleaner, fill again, run for 6-8 hours, drain, fill again ( to make sure most of the flush agent is out ) run till warmed up, drain, then fill with 4 gallons of Prestone ... this includes approximately . 5 gallon into the overflow bottle, throw in 8 oz of RMI-25, top off with D I water, then run it a day and double check to make sure the level stayed where I want it. I have a 65 gallon water cube that I use for my mobile wash set up that makes it easy to source the water . :) I use nothing but Cummins t stats in mine , FWIW . Carefully check the top radiator hose, my 2003 seemed to like to get weak right off the t stat housing till I replaced with Mr. Bob's hoses .
 
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