SHobbs:
>>Does the 01 02 models have the same bearings or can they be serviced the old way?
Yes, according to the FSM, they are identical to your set up. The nut retains the unit bearing to the spindle. It is a unit bearing (sealed on each race) unlike the open greasable tapered roller bearings we discussed at length. If you don't have the manual, Santa is assembling his list!
The pics/illustrations are truly worth at least 250 words.
>> If they have the old style can the hub and rotor be installed on my 00. Even if I have to replace the calipers I don't care, I can't stand the idea of not being able to service my bearings the way I am used to.
No gain, they are what you have.
>>Andy from your reply it appears that the bearings are pressed in the rotor. Does the rotor have to replaced at the same time as the bearings as one unit?
No, the rotors are not an "integrated" unit/one piece design like the 94-99 design (this style uses the tapered roller bearing that are serviceable, the design like you want).
>>Or does the entire hub and rotor need replaced?
Remove the caliper, support with string or tie wire, bump rotor with soft faced/dead-blow hammer if its rusty and stuck to the hub, too loosen and remove. I recommend turning a rotor like this on the vehicle. Most parts stores personnell will not take pains to cut the rotor square, unless the Ellis Co/Tarrant Co work ethic is better on your side of the metroplex. In the employees' defense often proper adapters are not sourced, a the time of the lathe purchase, which can provide a better outcome. You can also just buy new rotors. I bet they are less than $75 per side.
So to recap, I think you are stuck. You can likely source a 94-99 truck to rob the steering knuckles/splindles, hub rotors and single piston brake caliper and brake lines, so you have the design you really want. What I hope to relay is that you really don't want this (new to old design). You have far superior brakes with your arrangement.
If you are concerned of bearing failure, replace the hub/bearings each 100,000 and be done with it. They are really quite reliable. At tire rotation, before tires are removed, support the front end with a jack and suitable jack stands and test for looseness in ball joints or bearings. If you spin the wheel does it feel rough or make bearing noise not to be confused with normal brake drag (rough bearing feel)? Earlier detection for play can be noted, by lowering vehicle weight onto a long pry bar and having an assistant move the prybar while you watch for any play/movement/wear.
I bet the aftermarket comes up with a more reasonable alternative soon (replacement hubs) like they have for the designs on US and foreign cars.
If you are dis-satisfied with front pad life keep the rear shoes (provided you don't have rear disks) adjusted properly. Then source some better rotors and lining such as EBC or EGR. I sell both.
You can also extend caliper life with phenalic(sp) caliper pistions, by periodic brake flush/brake fluid change. When it comes time to replace the calipers just source a quality reman caliper, usually more reasonable than rebuilding.
Hope this helps! Now go put another 100K on and see if those bearings will go 200K!
If you've got questions call me. 972-398-3934 (Mon. -Fri. ) If I don't answer pls. leave a message, limited staff.
Good luck
Andy
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
It looks like a big nylon locking nut holding them in. Being that the entire hub and rotor have to be removed to replace them, what year model can I swap to to get away from these bearings. I was wondering if the big nut can be removed and the bearings worked on or are they pressed into the hub. I really don't like the idea of not being able to get to the bearings anytime I want, easily. I was thinking maybe a 2001 or 2002 front hub and rotor would work for the replacement. Seems to me that changing everything would just about equal the cost of having the bearings done and it would be a one time cost. Thanks in advance
