Smarty Safe Or Trans Bye Bye!!???

[TFarrell]

OK ANOTHER BORING SMARTY THREAD BUT HERE GOES ANYWAY... . i HAVE A STOCK 05 AUTO WITH A MBRP MUFFLER AND CAT GO BYE BYE, BUT THAT DOESNT MATTER ANYWAY.



MY QUESTION IS... ..... I HAVE MY SMARTY ON 3 ALL THE TIME, BUT I'VE GONE FROM STOCK TORQUES MANAGEMENT WHICH IS BORING TO MILD WHICH IS NICE AND TO MODERATE WHICH IS GREAT!!!! IS THE MODERATE TORQUE MANAGEMENT A BAD IDEA FOR MY STOCK TRANS OR IS IT OK?



THE SMART WEBSITE SAYS"° A stock automatic transmission can handle this version only with a "conservative" driving style. " WHICH I WOULD SAY I HAVE BECAUSE I DONT USUALLY ROMP ON IT, I JUST LIKE THE FACT THAT ON TOW/HAUL IT GETS INTO 3RD WITH THE TORQUE CONVERTER LOCKED WAY FASTER THAN STOCK WITHOUT EVEN BEING HEAVY ON THE PEDAL. EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE I DO STOMP ON IT BUT NOT TO THE FLOOR, AND I JUST WANT TO KNOW IF THIS IS OK OR IF I SHOULD GO BACK DOWN TO THE MILD TORQUE MANAGEMENT. I RARELY TOW ANYTHING AND WHEN I PLOWED THIS WINTER I PUT IT BACK ON STOCK TORQUE MANAGEMENT BUT STOCK FEELS LIKE A STOCK TRUCK... ... ... SO LETS SO WHAT YOU HAVE TO SAY... ... ... ... .....

 

[Giachino]

I run the mild tqm on level 3 as i'm afraid of moving to the moderate tqm... i'm not too hard on mine, but i do know there times that i get on it in the heat of battle..... just dont want to be on moderate and not drive conservatively at the expense of my transmission... ... i know that didnt answer your question, just giving my 2 cents.

 

[Marco]

I've done a "long term" test with our test 06 mule. Stock everything except for Smarty. I've driven the moderate TQM on #7 conseravtively for 6K miles. The automatic transmission HATES it! After about 2K miles it started to shudder when the torque converter clutch locks. At 6K it became really BAD.....

I went back to the mild TQM and the transmission is much happier with it.
I would say, with a stock transmission stay with the mild version!
That's if you want to listen! :-laf

Makes sense?

Marco

 

[Signal73]

what do the latest '06 smarty's come loaded with from the factory?

 

[Bob Wagner]

what do the latest '06 smarty's come loaded with from the factory?

stock smarty programming is mild torque management

 

[robertyoke]

Why are you yelling at us! I can hear you just fine.



turn off your caps lock!



-robert

 

[nps]

I ran my Smarty on #5 Mild for about 2 mos on a stock transmission with no problems. 3 days on #5 Moderate toasted my torque converter. But it is a great excuse to get a new one!



If you want to run stock, keep it mild. Even accelerating to get into traffic on the on ramp will toast it.



But it is your choice - you have been warned - don't blame Smarty.

 

[JLitton]

nps, now that you have the Goerend VB and TC, what level do you run? How much will that TC take?

 

[TFarrell]

Yeah I Guess I'll Lay Off The Moderate And Stick With The Mild. How Much Difference Would A Bd Or Other Brand Valve Body And Possibly A Torque Converter Do? I Really Wish I Got The 6 Speed

 

[nps]

nps, now that you have the Goerend VB and TC, what level do you run? How much will that TC take?

Level 9 Moderate. It'll take everything you can throw at it.

 

[nps]

Yeah I Guess I'll Lay Off The Moderate And Stick With The Mild. How Much Difference Would A Bd Or Other Brand Valve Body And Possibly A Torque Converter Do? I Really Wish I Got The 6 Speed

As posted, my TC/VB will take anything Smarty can dish out. Don't know if just a VB would help with a stock TC. I was going to try that route before the 3 days of Moderate, but after the stock TC started to slip I decided to change both while I had the transmission out.



Why out for just a VB you ask? The increased VB pressure will break the front band apply lever. So you need to beef it up. Easy to change - less than 5 min and no real PITA. But it is retained by a pin that is removed with a magnet. To get the pin out you need to remove a plug that is inside the bell housing. So whether you keep the stock TC or get an upgrade, you are pulling it off the input shaft anyway to get to the apply lever. The whole job - about 4 hours time and $1600 including new transmission fluid.



I had a 6 speed on my 01. 5. An EZ toasted my clutch on that rig. So whether you get a stick or auto, any power adds will require about $1,600 of transmission work.



I enjoyed the stick. Wife wanted to help drive and couldn't stand the long throw and notchy NV5600. I'd toss a coin on whether the auto or stick is better - both have their good and bad points. Best thing about the auto is no loss of spool and no smoke between shifts. 2nd best thing about the auto is no sore left knee in traffic.

 

[Bodie]

Level 9 Moderate. It'll take everything you can throw at it.

You might want to be carefull with those stock shafts, and flex plate...

 

[nps]

You might want to be carefull with those stock shafts, and flex plate...

Yep - no boosted launches for me.



Although I was impressed with the stock flex plate when I had it out - much thicker, rigid, and beefier than the 2nd gen flex plates. I don't know if it is a 3rd gen change or an '06 change.

 

[Bodie]

Yep - no boosted launches for me.



Although I was impressed with the stock flex plate when I had it out - much thicker, rigid, and beefier than the 2nd gen flex plates. I don't know if it is a 3rd gen change or an '06 change.

Really?



I havent seen a 06 FP but the 05s are cheesy. Good going for dodge!

 

[TFarrell]

nps or anyone out there... . which torque converter/valve body is the best bang for the buck? also the more important question..... how involved is it to change them... . obviously for the torque converter you have to drop the trans, but what about the valve body? how complicated is that. i saw them do it on a duramax and it didnt seem that bad, but i,ve never messed with trannys before so i was just curious if this is something that i can conquer myself... ... ... ... ... ... ... . ??? thanks in advance

 

[nps]

nps or anyone out there... . which torque converter/valve body is the best bang for the buck? also the more important question..... how involved is it to change them... . obviously for the torque converter you have to drop the trans, but what about the valve body? how complicated is that. i saw them do it on a duramax and it didnt seem that bad, but i,ve never messed with trannys before so i was just curious if this is something that i can conquer myself... ... ... ... ... ... ... . ??? thanks in advance

I went with Dave Goerend. Good product and great support. Changing the VB is easy and Dave will give you step-by-step instructions with photos along with his VB.

 

[cclark746]

I went with Dave Goerend. Good product and great support. Changing the VB is easy and Dave will give you step-by-step instructions with photos along with his VB.

so what are the stock shafts good for on the smarty? nps i know you said you just did a tc and tb but would yall recommend doing a shift kit with more clutches also why you had the transmission out? are would just a tc and tb let me abuse the 48re pretty good on sw9? I would like to know what i need to do for a 4wd launch pulling about 20psi boost and make it hold up? thanks guys

 

[nps]

The input shaft is susceptible to locked shifts. With an 06 48RE and ebrake I always keep the brake on, which keeps the transmission locked in tow/haul (without having to hit the switch), so I don't need a mystery switch to lock the TC up and potentially break the input shaft.



The output is susceptible to boosted launches. However some think that the stock shaft is like a fuse - keep it the weakest link because it causes the least damage when it goes. My son is at about 500hp and does 20psi boosted launches with his 01. 5 in 4x4. He has a full Goerends transmission with billet input and intermediate, but a stock output shaft, and hasn't snapped it yet.



If you haven't slipped the clutches yet, then they are in good shape. So in my book, an 06 48RE with the upgraded parts to handle the ebrake, combined with a VB and TC is good enough to stand up to Smarty. But if it breaks I'll just drop it and fix it so I'm not too worried. Heck - I've only got 6,000 miles on it - need to break it in right.



If you are worried about breaking things, then leave it stock and rely on your factory warranty.