1999 F-250 with 97 12 valve

[CSnyder]

Hi Guys I picked up a 1999 F-250 crewcab to do a conversion in and Ive located a 97 12 valve for it but Im curious where do you find all the misc stuff needed to do the conversion? Any help will be greatly appreciated and Ill be sure to take MANY pics of the process. TIA, Chris

 

[MMcCallie]

Ah, yes, the little things. You might want to check destroked.com as he has a list of Dodge parts with part numbers of things you might need. Much of it looks to be for a 24 valve. Here are some of the parts i've had to buy so far to get my truck on the road.



-Lower radiator hose 2. 25" I. D. for engine, 1. 75 for radiator. Requires exhaust adapter to reduce to a short piece of hose for the radiator.



-Upper radiator hose 1. 75 both ends, choose length



-$40 Ford Part #E5TZ17B384A 6. 9 Diesel 1 lead grounds on motor, other lead goes to PIN #19 on PCM, cut wire and solder it in so pickup. This will require a bracket, mine has not yet been installed.



-Keep water temperature and oil pressure sensors. You will have to use adapters, got mine from Napa. My oil pressure went in to the top of the oil filter housing. Sticks up but it works.



If you use the destroked.com kit, you won't have to modify your transmission. You'll use a Ford 6. 0 start for about $100 on ebay.



You didn't say if you are convertering from a PSD or a gas engine. That will make a difference on what other parts you might need, let us know.

 

[bmoeller]

Chris, shoot a PM to TDR member FordCummins. He stuck a 12v in his '99 F350. Sweet truck. His truck has a ZF 6speed in it.

 

[CSnyder]

Hi, the truck is a Powerchoke that ate itself at 119k. :-laf Im gonna take my time and make it look purty when I do it. Thanks for the info!



Bryan, is the truck you are talking a bright red lifted one? I seen one up at the Twin Cities dyno meet last fall and thats where I got inspired. Ill post pics of the truck when it gets delivered! Thanks, Chris

 

[elandon1201]

Ah, yes, the little things. You might want to check destroked.com as he has a list of Dodge parts with part numbers of things you might need. Much of it looks to be for a 24 valve. Here are some of the parts i've had to buy so far to get my truck on the road.



-Lower radiator hose 2. 25" I. D. for engine, 1. 75 for radiator. Requires exhaust adapter to reduce to a short piece of hose for the radiator.



-Upper radiator hose 1. 75 both ends, choose length



-$40 Ford Part #E5TZ17B384A 6. 9 Diesel 1 lead grounds on motor, other lead goes to PIN #19 on PCM, cut wire and solder it in so pickup. This will require a bracket, mine has not yet been installed.



-Keep water temperature and oil pressure sensors. You will have to use adapters, got mine from Napa. My oil pressure went in to the top of the oil filter housing. Sticks up but it works.



If you use the destroked.com kit, you won't have to modify your transmission. You'll use a Ford 6. 0 start for about $100 on ebay.



You didn't say if you are convertering from a PSD or a gas engine. That will make a difference on what other parts you might need, let us know.

What do you think you have in your conversion dollarwise? I am seriously considering doing one for my wife and know what I can get an engine for but have no idea what the "nickel and dime" stuff will add up to.

 

[MMcCallie]

Probably $2-4,000 for an engine. About $1,500 for flexplate, transmission adapter plate and starter, $450 ish for engine mounts and an alternator bracket. Those are the major expenses. Budget several hundred more for engine parts that may need to be replaced, hoses, and other fittings.

Going from a 7. 3 PSD, you can leave both batteries where they are if you remove the electric vacuum pump and accumulator pod. Put your air filter where the accumulator used to be. Run a hose and adapter for whatever vacuum lines you need and adapt them with a $1 fitting to the Cummins vacuum pump hose. Your defrost and vents will shift faster and harder than ever, very nice.

Going from a PSD will also require a gas pedal and throttle cable from a V8 or V10 Superduty. If you want cruise control, get some more parts off of that same truck. You'll want the electronic cruise control servo and cable. We just welded cable stops to the Cummins throttle parts to make connecting the throttle linkage simple.

It really can be done in a matter of days, but takes a lot of planning. You will need to be able to do some metal work to reuse one boost tube, and fab the other.

You can buy any exhaust kit that goes from a Cummins downpipe into a regular Excursion exhaust. I used a 4" Cummins downpipe and a 5" Ford Super Duty exhaust. Cost a little over $300 with shipping from ebay. I tihnk fuel lines were 3/8. You'll need to bypass the fuel pump. Using filters there isn't a bad idea.

 

[elandon1201]

Probably $2-4,000 for an engine. About $1,500 for flexplate, transmission adapter plate and starter, $450 ish for engine mounts and an alternator bracket. Those are the major expenses. Budget several hundred more for engine parts that may need to be replaced, hoses, and other fittings.



Going from a 7. 3 PSD, you can leave both batteries where they are if you remove the electric vacuum pump and accumulator pod. Put your air filter where the accumulator used to be. Run a hose and adapter for whatever vacuum lines you need and adapt them with a $1 fitting to the Cummins vacuum pump hose. Your defrost and vents will shift faster and harder than ever, very nice.



Going from a PSD will also require a gas pedal and throttle cable from a V8 or V10 Superduty. If you want cruise control, get some more parts off of that same truck. You'll want the electronic cruise control servo and cable. We just welded cable stops to the Cummins throttle parts to make connecting the throttle linkage simple.



It really can be done in a matter of days, but takes a lot of planning. You will need to be able to do some metal work to reuse one boost tube, and fab the other.



You can buy any exhaust kit that goes from a Cummins downpipe into a regular Excursion exhaust. I used a 4" Cummins downpipe and a 5" Ford Super Duty exhaust. Cost a little over $300 with shipping from ebay. I tihnk fuel lines were 3/8. You'll need to bypass the fuel pump. Using filters there isn't a bad idea.

Thanks for the info, it was cheaper than I thought. I am looking at the V-10 models because you can get them fo 8-12K loaded

 

[bmoeller]

Bryan, is the truck you are talking a bright red lifted one? I seen one up at the Twin Cities dyno meet last fall and thats where I got inspired. Ill post pics of the truck when it gets delivered! Thanks, Chris

Nope. It is a different color. If you look at his profile, there is a small pic of it.

 

[CSnyder]

Thanks for the info, it was cheaper than I thought. I am looking at the V-10 models because you can get them fo 8-12K loaded



I would shop around for a blown engine truck like I got. I paid 7500 for this crewcab shortbox 4x4 with a lift and wheels and auto transmission delivered to my door. It does still run but sounds like a 6. 0 on a cold start when its warm. :-laf The noise just doesnt clear up.



Hope this helps your search, Chris

 

[MMcCallie]

You guys are on the right track. If i ever do another one, i'll want to start with a V-10 donor truck. GVW over 9,2000 should mean no one can trouble you about inspections. Some places do test diesels. In MO, it is all screwed up and with my 7. 3 they still sent me to the testing station when getting it licensed. They just laughed at the emissions place, said it happens all the time and sent me back. Licensing office was closed by that time. It was a hassle.

 

[TWilkening]

Chris, what ever happened to that older F-350 you were going to drop a Cummins in?