2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission fuel pressure guage in A-pillar

[johnls]

Hello, I was hoping you could all help me. I have searched and could not find what I was looking for. I am looking to add a pyro, boost, and fuel pressure guage to the A-pillar of my 1997 and would like to know if any of you have routed a -3 or-4 an stainless steel hose right into the pillar behind the guage. I know you can use an isolator but do not want to and I think it will be fine with a screwed on fitting. Also are there any tips or tricks where to run through the firewall and up through the dash with all of the guage wires and lines? I am about to order the guages but if I cannot run the fuel line into the pillar I am going to have to think of another place to mount them. Thanks

 

[WDixon27]

if you want to chance diesel in the cab i see no reason you can't run a pressure line up the pillar, you'd still be running a line up the pillar if you was running a isolator, as long as it's about as flexible as the nylon tube that's run with a boost gauge or isolator, theres a few grommets in the firewall that you can run the tube through, it's been a while since i did my pillar so i can't remember how much room there is for fittings and large diameter hose but it should fit

 

[EKlem]

I think that this would be totally doable if you wanted to do it. As long as the lines are flexible and small in diameter, it would not be too hard to route them.



I respect that you probably have good reasons for wanting to avoid an isolator but I personally would not run diesel into the cab. I have the isspro setup with an isolator and it works quite well. Just remember that you need either a snubber or a needle valve to deal with the pressure spikes.

 

[TEasley]

I ran the EGT thermocouple pair, a 1/8" copper tube for the boost gauge, and the sensor lead from a transmission temp gauge + 12 volt supply wire and the instrument lights and grounding wires behind the column gauge pod and it got crowded! I wouldn't run the mechanical fuel pressure gauge to the pillar, even with an isolator. You can get an electric fuel pressure gauge tho, and it would work. Also, the mechanical gauges get long on the back because of the fitting that they need, and I doubt that the braided ss hose would have enough room to avoid hitting the original A-pillar cover. If you go with an electric gauge, there is plenty of room and you don't have to worry about a leak.



There is a large rubber plug in the firewall just outside the power brake assembly. It gives good access to the cab if you X cut it, and seals easily with dumdum when you're done. You just have to wedge yourself under the dash to route your wires and tubing. I went up behind the fuse panel.



My 2 cents. Tom

 

[Diesel Manor]

It can be done but it comes down to the size of the fitting on the gauge end of the SS hose. What I means is how long the fitting is because most of them will cause the hose to go straight out the back, you need to make sure you have enough clearance. Another option is to have handy a 45 degree fitting to go on the back of the fuel pressure gauge. 1/8NPT female by 1/8NPT male ends. That should do it.



We sell all of our kits with the isolators for 2 reasons. You shouldn't have fuel in the passenger compartment and keeps pressure spikes from effecting the gauge. If you have any questions give us a call. We're glad to assist.

 

[SEmerson]

I have done many fp gauges in the a piller. I have never had a leak. Also you have to use a rubber line. Any metal line will give you a load engine buz in the cab.

 

[NoSeeUm]

Copper tubing would work uust as well I would think and it is a more flexible.



Jim

 

[DNewell]

I would not recommend running a diesel line into the cabin of the truck. I don't think it's against the law, but could result in a nasty situation if there was ever a crash. the firewall in a vehicle is designed with the purpose of stopping a fire from entering the drivers compartment if something were to happen. I've got a relatively thick braided steel line filled with antifreeze that comes off the isolator to the A-pillar, and my only problem with the gauge is that it does stick out about 1/16" from the plastic of the new pillar, and the line keeps the FP gauge twisted a little bit so it's not clocked straight up and down. I concur that an electric gauge would be much easier, and would also keep the space available behind the pillar. My . 02.

 

[OL RATLR]

I think that this would be totally doable if you wanted to do it. As long as the lines are flexible and small in diameter, it would not be too hard to route them.



I respect that you probably have good reasons for wanting to avoid an isolator but I personally would not run diesel into the cab. I have the isspro setup with an isolator and it works quite well. Just remember that you need either a snubber or a needle valve to deal with the pressure spikes.

Isspro EV Mechanical no isolator in cab 4 1/2 no problems. :-{}



Plus a needle valve.

 

[CVasa]

I agree with DNewell ... .

I have auto meter's ultra lite, boost pyro and fuel pressure (electric). even with just the wires and boost line things got crowded behind the pillar cover.



Just make sure to get a needle valve between the pressure sender and the fuel line to isolate pressure spikes. Otherwise you get fuel coming out the sender after about 10 startups... . speaking from experience #@$%!

 

[The patriot]

I have an oil pressure gauge (digital) that I ran to my fuel filter head.

I tapped the pre cast bosses so that I have pre and post filter with a flip of a switch.

The senders arent exactly as accurate as I'd perfer, but it gives me a good base line figure.

I might have some pics in readers rigs area... .