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Ball Joints

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I did a quick search and didn't find much info. I am looking at changing ball joints on truck. I am thinking Moog greaseables. As far as I can find out both top and bottoms are now available as greaseable. The part numbers I have are upper K7448 and lower k7467. I would like a confirmation of this from some of you who have changed your ball joints. It appears that Rock Auto has the best price on these and according to their web site shipping is no problem. Also I do not know about the adjustment of the camber. Does this have to be done at the time of installation or can it be adjusted after they are installed? I want to change them myself to save the labor and than take it for an alignment. Any info will be most helpful. TIA.
 
Those are the parts I have (from Rock Auto, too) sitting on my shelf as spares right now. Both are greaseable.

Camber adjustment is accomplished by an offset on the upper joint shaft. It's changed after the joint is installed using an allen wrench in the grease fitting hole.

When you do this job, let us know what ball joint press you use (manufacturer and part number).

Ryan
 
I've got moog greasable uppers, and a pair of greaseable lowers from napa.



If I had the choice to do it over again now, I would get non-adjustable uppers (I think napa's uppers are greaseable now, and non-adj. ). It is just a PITA to deal with, as you have to have it aligned after, and the person aligning it will have to break the knuckle from the joint to make the adjustment to camber, unless you have them install the joints for you.



Also, if your camber isn't off, you have to adjust it so your offset is either forward or backwards of center, which plays with your caster a little and cocks the axle shaft a little out of alignment, nothing too serious, but make sure when you put it back together you don't have it too far to one side as it will cause a bind in the joint. I had this happen on one side and notice it was hard to turn when I reassembled it, had to take it back apart so I could adjust it some more to where it wasn't causing a bind in the joint when the knuckle was turned full right.



Finally, I will mention that I have already had a set of the moog uppers go bad, I had bought moog uppers and napa non-greaseable lowers (greaseable lowers unavailable at the time) and 10 months later they needed to be replaced. They wern't worn out too much, but the fancy alignment rack at the tire shop said they were bad.



So I used the warranty on both, and put in my 5th set of balljoints (only 70k on the truck), I'm getting good at replacing them though :-laf
 
It is just a PITA to deal with, as you have to have it aligned after, and the person aligning it will have to break the knuckle from the joint to make the adjustment to camber, unless you have them install the joints for you.



I've considered this, and you're right. I was hoping to be able to install them just right so that an alignment isn't necessary. I guess that may be impossible.



What do you mean "break the knuckle from the joint"?



Ryan
 
I've considered this, and you're right. I was hoping to be able to install them just right so that an alignment isn't necessary. I guess that may be impossible.



What do you mean "break the knuckle from the joint"?



Ryan



When you tighten down the nut the taper on the balljoint stud and the knuckle "seat" together. Once they have "seated" you can't adjust the camber unless you separate them from each other.



You might be able to get by if you don't completely tighten down the upper B/J stud so that it seats with the knuckle (just make it snug), but I don't know if I would want to drive it to a shop like that myself.



The thing is even if you happen to get the camber right on, your caster will now be off, so it should be aligned anyway.
 
The thing is even if you happen to get the camber right on, your caster will now be off, so it should be aligned anyway.

Now that I think about it, wouldn't it be impossible to get both camber and caster correct with this type of offset joint? Rotating the joint causes a change in both camber and caster.

On edit: I checked Napa - all their upper greaseables are also adjustable.

Ryan
 
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Now that I think about it, wouldn't it be impossible to get both camber and caster correct with this type of offset joint? Rotating the joint causes a change in both camber and caster.



On edit: I checked Napa - all their upper greaseables are also adjustable.



Ryan





Not impossible, you set the camber, then readjust the caster with the cam bolts on the control arms. Mine aligned in spec. just fine.



Hmm, I thought I had seen a greaseable non-adj. upper somewhere, maybe I was imagining things.
 
I myself have had the ball joint blues..... I changed my first set at 45,000 and now at 69,000 I need to replace them again. When I changed mine the first time only the uppers were available as greasables from NAPA. Anyway, I too have been thinking of trying the Moogs. Two questions..... What is the best ball joint out there right now? Why do our trucks just eat through these? It is a big pain in the *** and wallet!
 
What is the best ball joint out there right now?



I think that's a matter of personal preference. I've been brought up to believe that Moog makes the best chassis and suspension parts, but I have no objective data that supports that.



Not all the trucks seem to eat ball joints. Mine are at 70k now and I think they're still good. At least, I'm not getting any weird tire wear.



Ryan
 
Dealer just replaced the uppers on my truck at 32k, along with the power steering box... it was leaking everywhere. I guess I'm a lucky owner of a ball joint eating truck. This seems really quick for these to go bad. I do tow a camper, but I thought that was why you bought a 1 ton!
 
I just put napa ones on at 77,000. Upper and Lowers were both greasable and the uppers were non-adjustable. PIA job! While I had it apart I replaced both front axle U-joings and both hub bearing assemblies. Hope it lasts for a while!
 
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