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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Engine doesn't shut off right away.....

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Just started having this issue with my 98 12 Valver.

Whenever I "shut her down" and remove the key, it seems the engine takes 3-4 seconds before it FINALLY STOPS!

I know there is a fuel shut of solenoid or relay somewhere... .

Is this the culprit ??

How can I test it to see if it is functioning properly ??
 
Theres the Solenoid

Pretty easy to check that When you engage the starter, it goes up. When you turn the truck off, it goes down

12 Valve Engine Diagram.jpg
 
I had this problem and the 98 Dodge CID 12 Valve wouldn't shut off, I had to pull the starter and put in Larry D's starter contacts. The Truck wouldn't shut off twice and finally had to kill the engine, don't know if this helps or not.
 
Bad starter contacts will cause the starter to stay engaged after the truck starts, and this will cause the pull in coil in the fuel shutdown solonoid to stay on. It is a comon problem, check out http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
If you look at the FAQs it talks more about the problem.
Bob V

VERY, VERY INTERESTING information here!

Here's an excerpt from that website... .
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Fuel solenoid failure almost always begins with worn starter contacts. When a starter sticks on it is caused by the worn contacts arcing and becoming welded together. When this happens the starter back-feeds 12v up through the trigger curcuit to the 70amp fuel solenoid relay. The relay then thinks it getting the power from the ignition switch so closes the relay and energizes the fuel solenoid via the "pull" coil. This is why the engine won't shut off by the key. This "pull" coil is very strong but low resistance so will overheat very quickly if allowed to stay energized. This is what causes the fuel solenoids to burn up.

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Also, they sell a diode kit on there that helps PREVENT burning up the fuel solenoid should your starter stay engaged.

http://www.fostertruck.com/sol-saverdiode.htm


 
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Bad starter contacts will cause the starter to stay engaged after the truck starts, and this will cause the pull in coil in the fuel shutdown solonoid to stay on.

What position is solenoid shaft in on the ON position or "Energized" position ??

How can I differentiate if the relay or the solenoid is bad or not ??? :confused:
 
The run position is with the solenoid rod being pulled up. Down shuts the engine down.

What kind of shape is the rubber boot on the solenoid in? If it is ripped, there could be dirt and or corrrosion getting in there and gumming things up. Or, maybe the spring is broke.
 
The run position is with the solenoid rod being pulled up. Down shuts the engine down.

What kind of shape is the rubber boot on the solenoid in? If it is ripped, there could be dirt and or corrrosion getting in there and gumming things up. Or, maybe the spring is broke.

When my engine is running, the plunger is in the down position. Isn't the down position "supposed" to cut the fuel supply ???? :confused:

I did move the plunger to the UP position when the engine was off and the key in the ON position though. It did hold in that position.

The boot is torn up and a large chunk of it is missing. I think I'll remove the solenoid and inspect it visually.
 
When my engine is running, the plunger is in the down position. Isn't the down position "supposed" to cut the fuel supply ???? :confused:

Yes. It must not be going all of the way down to shut off the supply of fuel. The engine doesn't need much to idle.

I did move the plunger to the UP position when the engine was off and the key in the ON position though. It did hold in that position.

That it should do. After the pull in coil pulls the plunger up, the hold in coil holds it up, till the key is turned off, or the electrical is disconnected.

The boot is torn up and a large chunk of it is missing. I think I'll remove the solenoid and inspect it visually.

Careful pulling it out. The boot is the only thing that keeps the pluinger in place.
 
If the contacts are original, replacing them with Larry B's contacts is a cheap preventative maintenance effort. He also sells a replacement boot. Let me know if you need help.
 
If the contacts are original, replacing them with Larry B's contacts is a cheap preventative maintenance effort. He also sells a replacement boot. Let me know if you need help.

Thanks Adam. I'll probably be giving you a yell! :cool:

Did you buy a new Cummins yet ??? :confused: :confused:
 
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