2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 3rd Gen Track Bar Retrofit

[SHovis]

I was trying to install a Solid Steel track bar retrofit kit yesterday and never got to the installation part because I couldn't get the existing track bar off. After removing the bolt on the axle end I removed the nut at the frame end. No amount of hammering and prying would budge the frame end from it's position. I did this with the truck sitting on the ground.



Do I need to put it on jack stands to relieve pressure on the suspension, or should I just take it to the shop where they have all the right tools?



This is my first post. Thanks for any help.



Steve

 

[BILLVO]

You will need to relax the suspension by jacking it up and putting stands on the frame. You can usualy pop it from the taper if you put a bar in and pry down on the shaft and smack the housing a few times. If that doesn't work put a bit of heat to the housing with a little propane torch works for this and do the same it will pop.

 

[Hobart]

3 wacks with a 3 lb hammer on the end of the bolt should do it. Use a center punch or drift on the end of the bolt if necessary. Don't what ever you do leave the nut on!!
In fitting ,the track bar is a very tight fit on the frame side . Hammer it up into the DSS frame ;keep the wheels on the ground . By turning them back and forth its possible to line up the holes on the frame end of the trackbar. Get a helper here.

 

[rotohead]

I was trying to install a Solid Steel track bar retrofit kit yesterday and never got to the installation part because I couldn't get the existing track bar off. After removing the bolt on the axle end I removed the nut at the frame end. No amount of hammering and prying would budge the frame end from it's position. I did this with the truck sitting on the ground.

Do I need to put it on jack stands to relieve pressure on the suspension, or should I just take it to the shop where they have all the right tools?

This is my first post. Thanks for any help.

Steve

Have you tried using a pickle fork that is wide enough to make it wedge against the bar and the frame? Standard forks aren't wide enough to work. I can't remember what the width is (1 5/16"?) but I had to buy a wider fork from NAPA. Once I got the pickle fork wedged in there and wacked it once with a BFH it popped right out. Also had luck with a buddies of mine that was extra tight by heating it up then take a wet rag and put it on the joint. The sudden contraction does wonders. This works great on pitman arm removal also.
Chuck

 

[SHovis]

Thanks for the help. I'll try these tricks later this week. May have to pick up a bigger pickle fork as the one I have was too small. Steve

 

[rotohead]

Thanks for the help. I'll try these tricks later this week. May have to pick up a bigger pickle fork as the one I have was too small. Steve

I just measured the spread on my pickle fork and you will need to have one that is 15/16" wide or wider. My previous post was wrong... . I was thinking about something else. Hope this helps.
Chuck

 

[AKaiser]

Mine was a bit of a pain on the 99 1500, but it's a good setup. I will note that the bracket didn't seem to fit exactly flush to the frame, for whatever reason.