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bolt broke off in head Help please

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Hey my buddy just got an 03 3500 and I was installing his chips and cold air when I noticed the #6 cylinder exhaust manifold bolt was missing I figured that it fell out no it was broke off in the head. I stuck a pick in the hole and it only went in 1 to 1. 5 inches. Is this common I have never sene any thing on this here I have worked on quiet a few and never noticed it before. Is their any "easy" way to get it out. Except a left handed bit and a easy out I don't have a clue on what to do.
 
I have seen people blow these out with a torch. A muffler shop did it for me twice. Did not mess up a thing, all threads were pristine looking. . Not for the faint of heart.
 
Wasn't there a TSB or something about those bolts falling out? I'm so tired from moving last week I can't trust myself on that one. Isn't 1. 5" plenty deep enough for those bolts anyway?
 
did you watch this? I would pay good money to see that!
Yes I did. It was amazing, but the guy acted like it was NBD. The bolt just went !pop! after a few seconds. I looked up in there (had it on a lift) and the hole was clear.

The other time was on a wheel stud for my '96 Dodge 1500. Messed up the wheel with black soot but the stud was burned clear out with no thread damage. this was at a NTB store.
 
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If it were me, I'd probably pull the manifold and go in with a left hand twist drill. The good thing is there should be enough material on the head to rebore and retap to the next larger thread size if it becomes necessary.

One question: why did the stud break in the first place? I hope it wasn't because it was rusted in place.

Ryan
 
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What Ever You Do , Fix It Right The First Time Because It'll Haunt You For Ever , Take Your Time , Do It Right And It'll Be A Load Of Your Mind. :-laf
 
I don't know for sure but the truck come from tx and before he got it the guy took off all his mods after they signed the title thats when he showed him it was turning 600 rwhp before he put the bigger injectors in it. yea I am almost positve that it has been hot at the turbo a time or 2. It has 5" on it but when I got to looking at it it does not start untill the back of the trans other wise stock down pipe. I think I will try the left hand bit first.
 
I've broken my share in this that and the other, if you have to drill, start with a BRAND NEW 1/8" bit, I prefer Bosch, they're gold colored, go slow, good luck. That torch trick would scare me to even watch on an engine. Drill it with the 1/8", then a slightly bigger, then bigger, then try with a new easy out and a good handle, not vice grips. Before you try the easy out let it cool it will have heated from drilling. Good luck.
 
IDrill it with the 1/8", then a slightly bigger, then bigger,



Is this really the best way? By my logic, if you're not dead center with the little drill, that puts you off center for all the subsequent drills. Seems like it would be easy to destroy the threads.



Whereas a bit that "just fits" the thread crests should be close enough to center.



Am I wrong?



Ryan
 
Freeze-it spray, small aerosol can, with little red nozzle tube extender. Right after drilling for the ez-out, squirt just the drill hole to quick shrink the bolt. Most electornic supply stores carry Freeze-it spray.
 
Before you do anything, spray it with a penetrating oil and let it set for at least two hours. Then drill it with an 1/8" Tin Coated split point drill. Go slow and keep the bit lubricated. work you way up ubtil you get a hole large enough to insert an easy out. I like the idea of freezing it, But with some patience it will come out.
 
Whereas a bit that "just fits" the thread crests should be close enough to center.

Ryan

Logical thinking, but this won't help you. You probably won't get very far into the bolt starting with a drill that large in size before you will start to work harden the bolt. Once that happens, things will get MUCH more difficult. #@$%!

Get yourself an automatic centerpunch and take your time to line up as close to the center of the bolt as you can. Once you have centerpunched a dimple, start as suggested previously with small drills and work your way up in size. This may seem like alot of work but it is infinitely easier and faster to do it this way than to try to get it accomplished in one shot.
 
Rigid brand extractors come with hole centering bushing for their drill bits. The kit includes bushings, drill bits, fluted extractors, and collars. Of the many different easy out/extractors, the Rigids work far better than any thing else. They are especially useful if the bolt has broken below the surface. If not. I would grind it off flat with the surrounding surface, then like said above, center punch it and start with and 1/8" bit working up to the the size of the extractor you are going to use. Drill all the way through the bolt. Personally, I would not use one that will expand the bolt. Most easy outs either screw themselves in or are driven in with a hammer to engage the bolt. The Rigids will not do this.
 
I knew I'd hear a bunch of better ideas than mine. Ryan, I start with a real small bit because it's easier. I don't worry about being dead center, just getting enough hole for the easy out. I sure like this idea of the self centering rigs, tho, and I'm going to hunt one of those Rigid rigs, too. Thanks to the rest of you for those good tips.
 
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