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Front axle u-joints

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I spent some quality time inspecting my truck's underside today and saw some disturbing things. 4 u-joints need to be replaced. Both rear drive shaft and both front axle. The entire left and bottom of transmission is covered in oily dirt along with the bell housing.
I have never done u-joints and would like to get this done before i leave for the east coast on Monday so, the dealer is out of the question. Anyone is SoCal have a shop and want to help? Shop isn't required as I can use an auto hobby shop at either North Island or the Naval Station

I have NAPA part number PUJ351 for the driveshaft @ $37. 49 each and NAPA PUJ464 for the front axle @ 61. 49 each. all are greasable. Are these the right parts?
 
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I have NAPA part number PUJ351 for the driveshaft @ $37. 49 each and NAPA PUJ464 for the front axle @ 61. 49 each. all are greasable. Are these the right parts?



Those Napa numbers are Precision. I know for a fact the 464's are correct, but 351 is not correct. The correct part for the rear axle is 351A. 351A is almost identical to the 351, except that the cross is just slightly narrower so it will fit into the driveshaft yoke without grinding.



I just did the rear driveshaft joints this weekend. I did my driver-side axle u-joint a few months back. The best advice I can offer you is to be prepared to exercise a tremendous amount of force. You have the fortune of living in California, so your hub bearings probably won't be welded to the steering knuckles.



Be prepared to do some grinding and filing to get things to fit right. I had to grind some of the ends of the caps on the driveshaft, and filed some of the snap rings thinner.



I thought the front axle joints were easier to press in and out than the rear driveshaft joints. And the 464's are a perfect fit, so there's no grinding to be done.



The rear driveshaft took me roughly 15 hours to complete. The front axle took around 40 hours to complete, but that's just because my wheel bearing was rusted to the knuckle. The actual joint replacement took just a few hours.



Figure a "normal" person will take about 1/3 the time it took me, because I will literally spend hours cleaning up parts with grinders, files, steel wool, and wire wheels so that everything goes back together as easy as possible. So I'd plan on around 4 hours to complete the rear driveshaft, and about 4 hours for both front axles (assuming the bearings aren't rusted on).



I used a 3-ton arbor press and a 3-lb hammer. A 5-ton or 10-ton arbor press would've made the job a little easier. That 3-ton press just wasn't enough for that rear driveshaft.



Ryan
 
Don't let Ryan scare ya too bad, but those two front u-joints are going to be a big pain to replace. Since you've never replaced a u-joint before, I would wait until you can get someone to help, and you'll need a fair selection of tools at your disposal as well. Ryan used an arbor press, I used an air hammer, there are a number of ways to get the front bearing/hub assembly off, but they all involve a lot of work. I think it took me 5 hours to change my first front axle u-joint, the second one took less than half that, (I didn't spend nearly as much time as Ryan did in the cleaning department). At the very least, put some never seize on the should of the hub/bearing before assembling everything back together. Do some searches on front axle u-joints, and you'll get lots of scary stories.
 
Don't let Ryan scare ya too bad, but those two front u-joints are going to be a big pain to replace.



JLovas is right - don't fear the front axle joints! I had a bad experience, but it's because I live in a salt state. I really expect things to go pretty smoothly for you out there in sunny California.



Please, it's not my intention to scare you out of doing this job! You can do it, just take your time.



Ryan
 
Good to hear about the rust. Its only spent its entire life < 2 years in MD and PA. :rolleyes: It has just under 38k on the clock so it shouldn't be to bad.
 
I did the front axle joints with out removing the hub and bearing assembly from the shaft. Makes it a little heavy to handle but sure saves a lot of grief fighting with the bearing assembly. I also used an extension and a socket between the bolt and the frame to remove the hub assembly with the power steering. There are some good posts on this method about a year back. I read through them and found them to be very helpful. Also use some anti seize when assembling so that it is easier next time.
 
I just tore my front end apart and found that the drivers side u-joint was toast. Just over 38K miles. Reason why I tore it apart is cuz I'm waiting for my EMS Offroad part time hub kit to arrive. I've been reading some scary stories about these bearing assemblies being "welded" to the nuckle - I have to say that it only took me 30 minutes to take both sides apart, being ready to take the u-joints out.



I must have been lucky or something! Oo.
 
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