2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Pressure bleeding brakes, what am I doing wrong???

[FFSchooley]

I bought the Motive Products pressure bleeder to bleed my brakes. I hook it up as the instructions say, pressurize the system, and then attempt to bleed my brakes. Nothing comes out of any of the bleed valves. There is plenty of pressure and brake fluid in the system. What gives???

 

[B KIRK]

Try moving the pin in the proportioning valve.

It is usually covered with a rubber cap.



Brad

 

[FFSchooley]

tried that. Nothing.

 

[JFaughn]

It may be dirty/rusted bleeders , depressurize the system , pull out bleeder look to see if you can blow through or see light , if not us a drill bit by hand & go in holes from both sides .

 

[J.BURCHFIELD]

A man taught me how to bleed brakes in 1952. It has worked every time. It takes 2 people. Have your helper sit in the drivers seat. Open the left front bleeder valve and then have your helper push down slowly on the break pedal until it hits the floor and hold it there while you close the bleeder valve. Then and only then have your helper let all the way up on the pedal. Repeat on same wheel if it seems necessary then go to right front. If your hydraulic line goes to a tee on the rear axle go to the wheel at end of the shortest line coming off the tee. After each wheel add fluid to prevent running out and having to start all over again. This system will get ALL of the air out. I have heard guys say start at the wheel further from the Master cylinder. It makes more sense to start at the closest wheel then you will be pushing fluid through the system instead of air.

 

[Pavemen]

if you have ABS or RWAL, you likely have to slightly push on the pedal to open up the valves. ihave to do this on my 97

 

[FFSchooley]

Thanks! That was the key. I got fluid from all the bleeders. But I still can't get fluid from the proportioning valve, either with the pressure bleeder or using the pedal. In the past I could have someone step on the pedal and I would depress the pin in the proprtioning valve and get fluid. Now I get nothing...

 

[proflow]

I recently had great luck using the vac style bleeder. Started furthest away & worked forward. Didnt touch the abs, just cracked the bleader w/suction attached & kept fluid in the res. Actually I drained all but a tiny bit on the first rear line to get the old crap fluid out, then always kept it full. No pumping, no air, no second person etc. All new clean fluid. This may be the way for you. Best of luck--Proflow

 

[Joe Mc]

I still can't get fluid from the proportioning valve, either with the pressure bleeder or using the pedal. In the past I could have someone step on the pedal and I would depress the pin in the proprtioning valve and get fluid. Now I get nothing...

I just replaced my proportioning valve (it's up front by RWABS block) and followed bleed sequence in shop manual. I just cracked lines as someone pressed down on pedal. I didn't know you were supposed to be able to get fluid out of the plunger thingy under the rubber cap? Are you sure about this? It seems that (when I took old one apart) that this is a sealed unit "O-ring" around the little stem that pops up when brakes are applied. I would think if fluid was coming out of the stem area that a leak was present? Anyone else have a comment on this?

 

[DavidC]

Something must have changed for 99 as I just hook the motive bleeder and do each wheel. Yes I have ABS and RWAL.



Dave

 

[Joe Mc]

Was doing nothing wrong - thank god!



I found the stem that acutates the shoe on L/wheel cyl (BTW GMC 3500 upgrade - worthless) was moist. When I pulled stem out, fluid dribbled out - BINGO! I replaced shoes, L/wheel cyl w/stock 2500 Dodge and all is well. I'm going to replace the rear brake axel lines going to the cylinders this weekend - their pretty rusty and since I''ve changed almost everything else maight as well.



Thanks for the replies.