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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) oil pan change

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I asked for advice not long ago about repairing corrosion pin holes in my '96 oil pan. Thanks again for the replies. Been too chilly out so I haven't gotten to it yet. (TG for 2nd car) If I wanted to install a new pan, would anyone know if I would definitely have to jack the engine to get proper clearance (for suction tube/screen) or can this be done without touchin' the motor mounts? Would be nice. :) Input is appreciated. Thanks. Mike
 
Im in the middle of the same thing I need to replace my oil pan. Do I have to take the motor mounts off and jack up the engine? or can I just jack up the front of the engine? Seems like the only issue with clearance is the valley of the frame.
 
Im in the middle of the same thing I need to replace my oil pan. Do I have to take the motor mounts off and jack up the engine? or can I just jack up the front of the engine? Seems like the only issue with clearance is the valley of the frame.



Loosen the 2 motor mount bolts, where they attach to the frame Also loosen the trans crossmember. The fan shroud bolts will also have to be removed. Then jack up the engine with a engine hoist almost so #6 valve cover is touching the firewall. Drop the pan touching the crossmember and reach in and take out the 3 bolts holding in the oil pickup tube. let it drop into the pan and then slide the pan out. tq spec on the pan bolts is 18ftlbs. a little rtv on the gasket when reinstalling helps keep it in place. Most kits come with a new gasket for the pickup tube also. A few bolts are longer, look like studs, remember where they go. Thats all I can relate from my experience with it a few months back.



Jim
 
fixing to do mine because i'm waiting for my head to come back from haisleys ,lossen the motor mounts and transmission what about the transfor case links and transmission links do those have to come off or not
 
you only really need to loosen the engine mounts, but the transmission loose too helps get more of an angle up. make sure everything is clean, both pan side and block side, use a razor scraper around all the bolt holes, leave no old gasket material left, clean the block with some contact or brake cleaner, if you have acces to a product called gasgacinch, use it! we use it up at cummins, and it the best thing since sliced bread! it is used as either a belt dressing or a gasket "tack". i coat the gasket side that lays on the pan, and the pan itself, and once you lay the gasket on there, is does not move!, you have to be careful puting the gasket down and get the holes line up when using this product, but it is good stuff. another thing i seldom see anybody post when doing this procedure is that you need to put rtv at the 4 cracks where the front gear housing and rear main seal cover meet the block at. run a bead of rtv along the crack or line where the housings meet the block at, this ensures no leaks at those joints. good luck, it is not a bad project, especially if you have done one a few times, you learn what to do, and what not to do.



wes
 
Signal & Wes, Thanks for the replies. After seeing the price of a new pan on various internet sites (not cheap), I think first I'll try the Permatex liqiud metal repair or JB Weld, then keep a close eye on it. If it holds up, great. If not, a new pan is inevitabe. Thanks again. Mike
 
i've been jb-ing the aluminum pans on bmws for years (we call them the curb feeler at my shop) the one on my car has gone almost 90k miles, if you get it absolutely clean jb should work fine, rough the surface up a little with a file so it can get some traction and i like to cook it a little with a propane torch to get all of the oil out of the crack and then wash it down with a non residual solvent like brake or contact cleaner a few times
 
Just FYI I picked up a mint pan on ebay for $45 from the guy redlinear that always sells cummins stuff on there. The one i picked up was for a 24 valve but it works just the same.
 
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