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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Building a Tow unit - need advise

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Dyno run, Smart/Comp combo

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Muffler Elimination Pipe from Geno's

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Because it's designed to be effective at lower RPM. That's what I meant by the 'check it out' comment, there is info on the website that explains it better than I can. Anyway, when it's applied, the decrease in speed is immediate and substantial. Like throwing an anchor out of the bed, minus the noise of iron scraping on asphalt, of course. I did the research and liked the idea, as previously mentioned, of not having to add any more electronic gizmos into the mix. If you want the phone#, I'll pm it to you.



DaveOo.



Well something or someone has to lock the torque converter or the brake will do nothing. SNOKING
 
tain't so, Snoking

Well something or someone has to lock the torque converter or the brake will do nothing. SNOKING



... tell you what... I'll find the literature and let you know how the thing works minus a converter lockup controller... I do know there isn't one installed and it works great... but it's been a while, so I will read up on it and get back to you... fair enough?:)



ps: I had the same concerns as you express, my questions were answered and that caused me to choose it over the others on the market. .
 
I thought I read somewhere that the older automatic trans should not have an exhaust brake put on them?



Did I read wrong or ?, anyone enlighten me... .
 
I thought I read somewhere that the older automatic trans should not have an exhaust brake put on them?



Did I read wrong or ?, anyone enlighten me... .





That's why I went to DTT for a custom transmission before installing the Bank Exhaust Brake. Handed them 6600 for a custom transmission, Smart Controller, two billets, Jammer 1's and a Edge Comp. If you back out the controller, Injectors and Comp it was around 4200 for the transmission, billet input and 2nd gear cage.
 
I blew my headgasket and scuffed pistons 5 and 6, so since I was doing the labor on the rebuild, I had more money for parts. I didn't want to crack it back open for awhile, so I did all the bottom end stuff like the hot rodders and pullers do.



Block dipped and magnaflux, decked. Aligned honed. Bored . 20 over and Fire ringed.

Crank polished and balanced.

Lowered compression custom forged pistons.

FluiDamper

PDR cam.

Haisley head gasket.

ATS manifold

DD 2s (These are almost too big to tow with, Mach 1. 6 would probably be perfect)

J. R. Adkins L'il 55 turbo with a 16cm2 housing

HRVP 44

CaTCHER No Timing

TST Fueling box

4" to 5" stacks

Scotty Air 2

FASS 150.

NV 5600 Fast Coolers and SouthBend Dual Disc

4:10 Gears and Mag Hytec
 
60mph and 12k 5th wheel, automatic and 4. 10 gears, I got 12mpg going from LA to Ureka CA.

Empty at 60 going over hills 21. 5mpg

Empty 70mph =20. 5mpg

empty at 80mph= 18mpg



sometimes my time is worth th cost in fuel ($6-10) an hour when empty. But the drive sure is less stressful going 65-70 empty and 55-60 loaded.
 
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