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Front leafspring hanger/steeringbox frame crack thread

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How do I?

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I just came across a truck that the frame right in front of the steering box had broken on once upon a time and was rewelded. While they were at it, they torched a small hole in the frame behind the steering bracket to access the bolt that goes from the box to the bracket, and they welded the bracket to the frame, just by where it bolts, not that much:rolleyes: . A few of the front spring hanger rivets are somewhat loose also, but they didn't get to those with the welder. The welds aren't that nice, probably done w/ a stick and they don't look like they penetrated much of anything, and nothing has cracked again. The frame is solid besides this, almost no rust. I'm probably making it sound worse than it is also, I've seen much worse cracks. To clean it up a bit and make sure nothing cracks again, I was going to take all the loose rivets out one at a time, drill to the next largest bolt size and use grade 8 bolts w/ metal locking nuts and hard washers. I remember mysteryman recommending this somewhere, has anyone done it? For the frame, I was going to try and locate the stock Dodge steering brace that came on old ramchargers and bolt it up to there, and maybe doing a partial box of the frame rail, leaving enough room to get to the bolts and bracket/brace. Any help would be appreciated, it seems OK now, I just don't want anything to crack again.
 
Didn't we all just read a post that explained how the 4X4 trucks are tougher than the 2WD units? I see countless examples that the gear box mount and frame are broken on the 4X4 trucks.



Maybe I missed something in the translation.





Our snow plow truck at this here school broke the frame and was sent to a body shop for welding. It has held up so far during the past few years but the gear box is loose now and wobbles around when the wheels are turned left/right.
 
Didn't we all just read a post that explained how the 4X4 trucks are tougher than the 2WD units? I see countless examples that the gear box mount and frame are broken on the 4X4 trucks.



Maybe I missed something in the translation.



What does this have to do w/ anything? Don't you have a 2wd w/ a broken front crossmember anyway?
 
best thing that I have done with the front end of mine was throw that stupid plate that bolts to the frame to hold box on and go to crossover steering less stress on frame and turns on a dime and even gives ya change :)
 
My 2WD had a frame crack halfway up right in front of the sterring gear. Front crossmember rivets loose on it too. All welded now.
 
It would have to do with the post someone wrote out about how the 2WD's are weak and to stear clear of them... ... . I missed what was translated there.



My cross member rusted to the point it was missing portions that fastends the upper control arm to the frame.



I believe that loose rivits are a problem for any vehicle. They are a simple fix with a torch/grinder and a frame bolt.
 
It would have to do with the post someone wrote out about how the 2WD's are weak and to stear clear of them... ... . I missed what was translated there.



My cross member rusted to the point it was missing portions that fastends the upper control arm to the frame.



I believe that loose rivits are a problem for any vehicle. They are a simple fix with a torch/grinder and a frame bolt.



What do you mean by a frame bolt? Better to use than grade 8? Should I get bolts long enough that there is a shank w/ no threads that passes through the frame/brackets? I've never had to do this yet, and I want to do it as "right" as I can so I won't have to do it again.
 
What I have done;



Cut off the head of one rivet. Drive it out. Drill the hole to 7/16. It won't take but a second. The hole is just under 7/16"



**I** was told at my heavy truck dealer, there is no "frame bolt" 7/16" so I didn't argue. I went to the hardware store and ordered several 7/16 grade no. 8 fine thread 1 1/4" long with SAE grade 8 washers and grade 8 lock nuts. I "made" frame bolts if you will. Frame bolts have a heavy (SAE) washer molded direct to the lock nut and bolt head.



Use the length that suites your needs. When I bolted my new frame cross member in, I used 1 1/4" long.
 
A hydroassist ram will take a good portion of the stress off the frame. I was doing my steering box anyway so adding the ram wasn't that much more. Frame stress was one of the straws that tipped me toward the ram.

Ken
 
Front leaf spring hanger/steering box frame crack thread

I welded up all of the un needed holes in the fame in that area and added metal were i could to help strenghthen the area



I also took a peice of plastic wraped eith 1/4 " or 3/8" and made a loop at each end then wraped it over the steering gear box ,over the frame , you need about 3 feet of cabel and connected it to a heavy duty turn buckel ,adding lock nots to you can lock it from turning . then on the passenger side of the frame install a eye bolt in a exsisting hole in the frame



atach the turn buckel to the eye bolt , now tighten the turn buckel to you can play a tune on it , results is a brace that wont give plus adds more secureing surface on the front of the gear box
 
I welded up all of the un needed holes in the fame in that area and added metal were i could to help strenghthen the area



I also took a peice of plastic wraped eith 1/4 " or 3/8" and made a loop at each end then wraped it over the steering gear box ,over the frame , you need about 3 feet of cabel and connected it to a heavy duty turn buckel ,adding lock nots to you can lock it from turning . then on the passenger side of the frame install a eye bolt in a exsisting hole in the frame



atach the turn buckel to the eye bolt , now tighten the turn buckel to you can play a tune on it , results is a brace that wont give plus adds more secureing surface on the front of the gear box



Have a pic?
 
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